You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Export thread
Kawasaki FR651V will turn over but will not start
#1
B
Bobby 63
B
Bobby 63
i have a Exmark Quest with a Kawasaki FR 651V engine, i was mowing and it just stopped. since trouble shooting i have done the following :
good clean gas--check
clean fuel lines --check
checked seat switch--check
checked compression and spark plugs--check
replaced carb--Check, installed new one same problem.
the mower will run off of carb cleaner as long as you keep spraying it in the carb.
any suggestions on where to look next? i read on one thread that someone else had this problem, what did you do to fix the issue.
good clean gas--check
clean fuel lines --check
checked seat switch--check
checked compression and spark plugs--check
replaced carb--Check, installed new one same problem.
the mower will run off of carb cleaner as long as you keep spraying it in the carb.
any suggestions on where to look next? i read on one thread that someone else had this problem, what did you do to fix the issue.
#2
S
shiftsuper175607
You say it will run off carb cleaner?
So, what provides the fuel to the engine?
The carb!
Do you have a supply of fuel to the carb?
Float and needle in carb working?
Is the solenoid opening on the bottom of the carb to allow fuel in to the fuel jet?
Is the jet clean and unobstructed?
Is choke working properly?
S
shiftsuper175607
i have a Exmark Quest with a Kawasaki FR 651V engine, i was mowing and it just stopped. since trouble shooting i have done the following :
good clean gas--check
clean fuel lines --check
checked seat switch--check
checked compression and spark plugs--check
replaced carb--Check, installed new one same problem.
the mower will run off of carb cleaner as long as you keep spraying it in the carb.
any suggestions on where to look next? i read on one thread that someone else had this problem, what did you do to fix the issue.
You say it will run off carb cleaner?
So, what provides the fuel to the engine?
The carb!
Do you have a supply of fuel to the carb?
Float and needle in carb working?
Is the solenoid opening on the bottom of the carb to allow fuel in to the fuel jet?
Is the jet clean and unobstructed?
Is choke working properly?
#3
B
Bobby 63
B
Bobby 63
yes i have done all of that, in the thread i have replaced the carb with a new one, complete with cut off valve, still won't run.
#4
S
shiftsuper175607
Again...IS THE CUT OFF VALVE OPENING!!!!!!!!!
S
shiftsuper175607
yes i have done all of that, in the thread i have replaced the carb with a new one, complete with cut off valve, still won't run.
Again...IS THE CUT OFF VALVE OPENING!!!!!!!!!
#5
B
Bobby 63
B
Bobby 63
i was looking for answers not sarcasm, yes it is opening it is also new, i really don't need all the !!!!!!!!!!! and the caps is insulting like your hollering.
#6
S
shiftsuper175607
OK, What does being new have to do with it opening?
S
shiftsuper175607
i was looking for answers not sarcasm, yes it is opening it is also new, i really don't need all the !!!!!!!!!!! and the caps is insulting like your hollering.
OK, What does being new have to do with it opening?
#7
B
Bobby 63
B
Bobby 63
i have had it off and turned the key on it works as designed, the bowl is full of gas and no jets plugged.
i was looking at it and the cut off valve was hot as i had the key on, this seems suspicious to me, would the voltage regulator be the problem?
i was looking at it and the cut off valve was hot as i had the key on, this seems suspicious to me, would the voltage regulator be the problem?
#8
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
The cut off valve is a solenoid so it will generate heat during use.
Usually the fuel flowing through the carb keeps it cool.
IF you can run the engine by shooting shots of fuel down the carb throat, then the carb is not allowing fuel to enter the cylinder .
This is regardless of what you have cleaned, checked or replaced the fact remains that no fuel is going into the engine, end of story.
Shooting the starting fluid into the engine proves that the throttle valve is open, the valves are working and the spark timing is right.
Usually the fuel flowing through the carb keeps it cool.
IF you can run the engine by shooting shots of fuel down the carb throat, then the carb is not allowing fuel to enter the cylinder .
This is regardless of what you have cleaned, checked or replaced the fact remains that no fuel is going into the engine, end of story.
Shooting the starting fluid into the engine proves that the throttle valve is open, the valves are working and the spark timing is right.
#9
S
shiftsuper175607
MAYBE A BAD FUEL PUMP?
I wonder if fuel runs out if he loosens the solenoid on the bottom of bowl?
S
shiftsuper175607
The cut off valve is a solenoid so it will generate heat during use.
Usually the fuel flowing through the carb keeps it cool.
IF you can run the engine by shooting shots of fuel down the carb throat, then the carb is not allowing fuel to enter the cylinder .
This is regardless of what you have cleaned, checked or replaced the fact remains that no fuel is going into the engine, end of story.
Shooting the starting fluid into the engine proves that the throttle valve is open, the valves are working and the spark timing is right.
MAYBE A BAD FUEL PUMP?
I wonder if fuel runs out if he loosens the solenoid on the bottom of bowl?
#10
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
When people come into the shop they get asked
When did it start to play up & what did you do to it directly before it started to play up ?
This is done because unless the mower suddenly stoped deat it is usually the last thing, like tipping in fuel that was bad.
So we know what is happening now but what was happening before.
Fuel pumps have a one way valve in them for instance.
Fuel tank outlets clog up .
Some fuel solenoids are polarity sensitive .
In your case elimination might be a good idea.
You can slip the carb off, leave it connected, turn it sideways turn the ignition on then blow air * high volume low pressure is best, through the carb.
Put your hand on the outlet side , if it is not dampened by fuel then the carb is not flowing.
Replace the fuel solenoid with a bolt and see if it sprays fuel out then.
Pinch the fuel tank of your push mower, hook it up to the carb and see if that sprays fuel out.
When did it start to play up & what did you do to it directly before it started to play up ?
This is done because unless the mower suddenly stoped deat it is usually the last thing, like tipping in fuel that was bad.
So we know what is happening now but what was happening before.
Fuel pumps have a one way valve in them for instance.
Fuel tank outlets clog up .
Some fuel solenoids are polarity sensitive .
In your case elimination might be a good idea.
You can slip the carb off, leave it connected, turn it sideways turn the ignition on then blow air * high volume low pressure is best, through the carb.
Put your hand on the outlet side , if it is not dampened by fuel then the carb is not flowing.
Replace the fuel solenoid with a bolt and see if it sprays fuel out then.
Pinch the fuel tank of your push mower, hook it up to the carb and see if that sprays fuel out.
#11
B
Bobby 63
B
Bobby 63
it had been running just fine, was mowing and it died, i had been using the mower weekly , if not twice a week for several months now.
i have eliminated all the safety switches, fuel pump is supplying all the gas, very strong stream. fuel lines cleared, etc.
the only thing would be to pull apart the intake and see what could be blocking the flow, i will try that next.
i am confused as to what or how something could block the gas flow??
any suggestions ?
i have eliminated all the safety switches, fuel pump is supplying all the gas, very strong stream. fuel lines cleared, etc.
the only thing would be to pull apart the intake and see what could be blocking the flow, i will try that next.
i am confused as to what or how something could block the gas flow??
any suggestions ?
#12
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
There is only one thing that shuts off the fuel supply to the engine.
The carb solenoid which is why we carried on about it.
The carb solenoid jambs a plug into the end of the main jet so the fuel can not flow through the carb.
That is what it is there for,
When you turn the engine off the sparks stop but the engine continues to spin because of it's inertia.
During this time fuel continues to be drawn out of the carb and passes unburned through the engine then out the muffler.
This contravines the EPA clean running regulations.
The unburned fuel then accumulates in the muffler and because the internals of the muffler are red hot, when the air : fuel ratio get to a combustable level it goes bang.
So it gets called an anti-afterfire solenoid so owners think it is doing some good.
If the carb is working properly that is the only thing that prevents fuel passing into the engine.
The easiest way to eliminate it as the problem is to replace it with a bolt.
The only other thing could be a cheap carb bought of the web that was defective stock , as a lot are , with a problem like a main jet with no hole or an emulson tube with no holes.
Both of these I have seen on customers mowers that funny enough would not start.
The carb solenoid which is why we carried on about it.
The carb solenoid jambs a plug into the end of the main jet so the fuel can not flow through the carb.
That is what it is there for,
When you turn the engine off the sparks stop but the engine continues to spin because of it's inertia.
During this time fuel continues to be drawn out of the carb and passes unburned through the engine then out the muffler.
This contravines the EPA clean running regulations.
The unburned fuel then accumulates in the muffler and because the internals of the muffler are red hot, when the air : fuel ratio get to a combustable level it goes bang.
So it gets called an anti-afterfire solenoid so owners think it is doing some good.
If the carb is working properly that is the only thing that prevents fuel passing into the engine.
The easiest way to eliminate it as the problem is to replace it with a bolt.
The only other thing could be a cheap carb bought of the web that was defective stock , as a lot are , with a problem like a main jet with no hole or an emulson tube with no holes.
Both of these I have seen on customers mowers that funny enough would not start.
#13
J
jerry45
J
jerry45
Hey folks, I have the EXACT same problem EXCEPT when the engine turns over when trying to start, raw GAS does spray out the tailpipe so GAS is getting into the engine but not firing?
It is a Kawasaki FR691V and it was running fine when it just stopped.
It turns over perfectly and never had trouble starting before, but it just stopped and will not fire.
Since there are TWO spark plugs and since it never backfired or had trouble starting I assume the plugs are OK.
So I am certain it has to do with some kind of firing going to the plugs that is not functioning.
Any idea what that would be and where it is located?
It is a Kawasaki FR691V and it was running fine when it just stopped.
It turns over perfectly and never had trouble starting before, but it just stopped and will not fire.
Since there are TWO spark plugs and since it never backfired or had trouble starting I assume the plugs are OK.
So I am certain it has to do with some kind of firing going to the plugs that is not functioning.
Any idea what that would be and where it is located?
#14
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
One thing I would check is that the crankcase doesn't have any GASOLINE in it with the oil. smell of the dipstick.
Next pull a spark plug out, reconnect the wire, and ground the metal of the plug to the engine, having another person helps here, to turn the key. Look for spark at the plug. do it on both plugs.
next, if no spark, remove the engine cover, find the ignition coil, it should have a small black wire plugged into it, besides the plug wires. Unplug that wire and try to start it/check for spark again. If you have spark now, that means something is grounding the coil and killing spark, either the wire you unplug is shorted, or it may be a ignition switch issue. If you unplug the ground wire and No spark still, ignition coil is bad.
and when it died, did it sputter and spit then die, or die just like you turned the key?
Next pull a spark plug out, reconnect the wire, and ground the metal of the plug to the engine, having another person helps here, to turn the key. Look for spark at the plug. do it on both plugs.
next, if no spark, remove the engine cover, find the ignition coil, it should have a small black wire plugged into it, besides the plug wires. Unplug that wire and try to start it/check for spark again. If you have spark now, that means something is grounding the coil and killing spark, either the wire you unplug is shorted, or it may be a ignition switch issue. If you unplug the ground wire and No spark still, ignition coil is bad.
and when it died, did it sputter and spit then die, or die just like you turned the key?
#15
J
jerry45
It just died like I turn the key off...funny we are talking about it being like the ignition switch was turned off because when I started it earlier, it seemed to stop when my glove touched the key...and it happened twice before I made sure I wasn't touching the key after starting...methinks I need to check where the key switch is and if the run wire is connected or switch is defective??? The key fires up the starter but the run wire or setting might be off or broke???
Then I'll follow up with your suggestions which are great...thanks for the quick response. It will be a few days before I get back to it...thanks again.
(The mower is near where my grandkids get their bikes and other somewhat heavy toys out from around the tractor and I did leave the key in the ignition by accident making it vulnerable to something hitting it pretty easy. my bad.)
J
jerry45
Great response, that will keep me busy for a while...One thing I would check is that the crankcase doesn't have any GASOLINE in it with the oil. smell of the dipstick.
Next pull a spark plug out, reconnect the wire, and ground the metal of the plug to the engine, having another person helps here, to turn the key. Look for spark at the plug. do it on both plugs.
next, if no spark, remove the engine cover, find the ignition coil, it should have a small black wire plugged into it, besides the plug wires. Unplug that wire and try to start it/check for spark again. If you have spark now, that means something is grounding the coil and killing spark, either the wire you unplug is shorted, or it may be a ignition switch issue. If you unplug the ground wire and No spark still, the ignition coil is bad.
and when it died, did it sputter and spit then die, or die just like you turned the key?
It just died like I turn the key off...funny we are talking about it being like the ignition switch was turned off because when I started it earlier, it seemed to stop when my glove touched the key...and it happened twice before I made sure I wasn't touching the key after starting...methinks I need to check where the key switch is and if the run wire is connected or switch is defective??? The key fires up the starter but the run wire or setting might be off or broke???
Then I'll follow up with your suggestions which are great...thanks for the quick response. It will be a few days before I get back to it...thanks again.
(The mower is near where my grandkids get their bikes and other somewhat heavy toys out from around the tractor and I did leave the key in the ignition by accident making it vulnerable to something hitting it pretty easy. my bad.)
#16
7394
7394
Confusing, because of 2 different threads.
Best to start a fresh one & not jump a thread.
Best to start a fresh one & not jump a thread.
#17
PCVST.TECH
PCVST.TECH
Hey, so to reference the first part of this thread, trouble shooting my way through this same issue after the mower has sat idle for the winter season. got no fuel coming out of the pump when cranking, she should be squirt squirt squirting out the outlet with the hose off, yes?
#18
B
bertsmobile1
Sitting all season floating debris will tned to drop to the bottom of the tank then block off the outlet.
Take the cap off & blow back through the tube from the tank.
Note the pump has a check valve in it so don't try blowing back through that .
B
bertsmobile1
Yes.Hey, so to reference the first part of this thread, trouble shooting my way through this same issue after the mower has sat idle for the winter season. got no fuel coming out of the pump when cranking, she should be squirt squirt squirting out the outlet with the hose off, yes?
Sitting all season floating debris will tned to drop to the bottom of the tank then block off the outlet.
Take the cap off & blow back through the tube from the tank.
Note the pump has a check valve in it so don't try blowing back through that .
#19
B
Bobby Sky
B
Bobby Sky
coils! coils! coils! the kawasaki coils are good for 5 years then they need to be replaced, u bought 2 coils on ebay for $35. problem solved..it had been running just fine, was mowing and it died, i had been using the mower weekly , if not twice a week for several months now.
i have eliminated all the safety switches, fuel pump is supplying all the gas, very strong stream. fuel lines cleared, etc.
the only thing would be to pull apart the intake and see what could be blocking the flow, i will try that next.
i am confused as to what or how something could block the gas flow??
any suggestions ?
#21
S
slomo
Was this a new ebay carb - made in China?
Do you have 12VDC on the carb solenoid wire with key on? I snip the plunger tip off, never have to worry about this again.
Larger font size (capital letters) is not hollering. You heard that tale way back in the pre internet days from coders that stare at screens all day. Today, larger font is for OLD PEOPLE LIKE ME. Once you crack 40 you will understand.
slomo
S
slomo
You have to be patient with some of us on here. We read the same thing ALL the time. New this new that.... New means jack cheese.i was looking for answers not sarcasm, yes it is opening it is also new, i really don't need all the !!!!!!!!!!! and the caps is insulting like your hollering.
Was this a new ebay carb - made in China?
Do you have 12VDC on the carb solenoid wire with key on? I snip the plunger tip off, never have to worry about this again.
Larger font size (capital letters) is not hollering. You heard that tale way back in the pre internet days from coders that stare at screens all day. Today, larger font is for OLD PEOPLE LIKE ME. Once you crack 40 you will understand.
slomo
#22
7394
7394
40 ? You are still a youngster, try 60 +
#23
B
bertsmobile1
Increase the display size on your computer screen
So get a really big screen and reduce the resolution of the screen till everything is a size you can read easily
Font size is realtive to the screen resolution.
It is only absolute when the page is printed
so an 10pt font on a 20" screen set to 640 x 480 will display about 1/2 tall
The same font on the same size screen set to 2400 x 1800 will display as a strait line
B
bertsmobile1
Yes it is screamingLarger font size (capital letters) is not hollering. You heard that tale way back in the pre internet days from coders that stare at screens all day. Today, larger font is for OLD PEOPLE LIKE ME. Once you crack 40 you will understand.
Increase the display size on your computer screen
So get a really big screen and reduce the resolution of the screen till everything is a size you can read easily
Font size is realtive to the screen resolution.
It is only absolute when the page is printed
so an 10pt font on a 20" screen set to 640 x 480 will display about 1/2 tall
The same font on the same size screen set to 2400 x 1800 will display as a strait line
#24
A
AUJKW
I have an Australian built Greenfield ride on mower fitted with a Kawasaki FR651V engine that ran well for 3 years then started playing up. The engine would operate for 30 minutes, then 'splutter' to stop ! After a minute or so it would restart.
I replaced the 2 coils, then the carby jet to one suitable to operate above 3,500 foot elevation for the high country in my home state. The fuel lines were then replaced, all at the suggestion of the original dealer.
Still the problem persisted.
I then noticed the L shaped fuel pump vacuum pipe, part No. 92192, was loose at the engine, so I replaced this with fuel hose, and bingo, it has not missed a beat since then. A simple fix, but difficult to diagnose. When the engine was hot, the part expanded to reduce the vacuum required for the fuel pump to operate correctly, thereby starving the engine of fuel
I hope this fixes your problem engine.
John
A
AUJKW
Bobby 63,i have a Exmark Quest with a Kawasaki FR 651V engine, i was mowing and it just stopped. since trouble shooting i have done the following :
good clean gas--check
clean fuel lines --check
checked seat switch--check
checked compression and spark plugs--check
replaced carb--Check, installed new one same problem.
the mower will run off of carb cleaner as long as you keep spraying it in the carb.
any suggestions on where to look next? i read on one thread that someone else had this problem, what did you do to fix the issue.
I have an Australian built Greenfield ride on mower fitted with a Kawasaki FR651V engine that ran well for 3 years then started playing up. The engine would operate for 30 minutes, then 'splutter' to stop ! After a minute or so it would restart.
I replaced the 2 coils, then the carby jet to one suitable to operate above 3,500 foot elevation for the high country in my home state. The fuel lines were then replaced, all at the suggestion of the original dealer.
Still the problem persisted.
I then noticed the L shaped fuel pump vacuum pipe, part No. 92192, was loose at the engine, so I replaced this with fuel hose, and bingo, it has not missed a beat since then. A simple fix, but difficult to diagnose. When the engine was hot, the part expanded to reduce the vacuum required for the fuel pump to operate correctly, thereby starving the engine of fuel
I hope this fixes your problem engine.
John
#25
StarTech
StarTech
I have been nearly visual blind most of my 62+ years. Increasing the Font here doesn't help much either. Even my vision improving to -325 which is a lot better than when it was at its worst of -650 I still have 12 inches from the screen to see things clearly. Now if I use my glasses and wear a second pair of +125 readers over my regular glasses then things are clear. Just can't the eye doctor to make a pair that works for using the computer. I have destroy several frames the last year due putting down the glasses and then not able to find them until I crush them. Just got a new set of frames last week.
And simple things are the harder to find sometimes. Intermittent problems are even harder to find as you got to caught at the moment it is giving the problem.
And simple things are the harder to find sometimes. Intermittent problems are even harder to find as you got to caught at the moment it is giving the problem.
#26
redneck mechinics shop mi
redneck mechinics shop mi
need a engine got one 150buck in michigan!i have a Exmark Quest with a Kawasaki FR 651V engine, i was mowing and it just stopped. since trouble shooting i have done the following :
good clean gas--check
clean fuel lines --check
checked seat switch--check
checked compression and spark plugs--check
replaced carb--Check, installed new one same problem.
the mower will run off of carb cleaner as long as you keep spraying it in the carb.
any suggestions on where to look next? i read on one thread that someone else had this problem, what did you do to fix the issue.