Export thread

Kawaski FR651V - FX air box conversion

Finally some pics.

Very professional looking. You are quite the craftsman.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Re: Kawaski FR651V - FX air box conversion

Thank You BlazNT, certainly appreciate your comments..

Complete with filter minder. Good job, you did it right!

And best still it is fully mounted to the blower housing so will come off with it when you clean the cooling fins.
So many "professional" instqllqtions done at mower shops make it next to impossible to remove the housing, so owners don't bother.
Sort of self defeating.
Air ends up being cleaner but engine overheats from debris build up under the cover.

I have been fitting them to the ROPS where I can .

Re: Kawaski FR651V - FX air box conversion

FWIW: I spelled Kawasaki incorrect on the title. Fat fingers & small keys....Doh !!!

cpurvis said:

Complete with filter minder. Good job, you did it right!

Click to expand...

Thank You cpurvis- Always appreciate your comments.

bertsmobile1 said:

And best still it is fully mounted to the blower housing so will come off with it when you clean the cooling fins.
So many "professional" instqllqtions done at mower shops make it next to impossible to remove the housing, so owners don't bother.
Sort of self defeating.
Air ends up being cleaner but engine overheats from debris build up under the cover.

I have been fitting them to the ROPS where I can .

Click to expand...

Thank You Bert- Appreciate your input. Yes I mounted it to easily come off intact with the blower housing for annual engine cleanings. I made sure of that. Cause I do keep my engine clean.


The Donaldson canister I got off eBay used, & low price. It cleaned up pretty good (imo). And of course the filters are brand new. As are my spark plugs to get a good 'read' on the burn..

Depending upon which housing you bought, all of the after market mower parts companies do replacement elements
I use both Stens & Rotary and have found them both to be very good.
My commercial customers re getting 2 to 3 years out of the outers and the only inner I replaced was one that got water damaged.

Bert- The housing was off an FX691, which takes the big 10-3/4" long outer filter, Donaldson # P821575

At only approx 25 hours per mow season, I 'should' be good for a few seasons. I put in Kaw factory filters.

Thanks for the recommendation on aftermarket ones. :thumbsup:

Do you have a part number for the filter minder, and/or the specs for this application?

Re: Kawaski FR651V - FX air box conversion

Filter Minder is 136501-00408 series. Reads up to 8" H2O @ max.

What other specs are you referring to ?

7394 said:

Filter Minder is 136501-00408 series. Reads up to 8" H2O @ max.

What other specs are you referring to ?

Click to expand...

He might be asking about matching the Filter Minder to the air cleaner element.

The Filter Minder needs to correspond with the max restriction recommended by the filter element manufacturer. For instance, the Cummins L-10 manual lists 25" H20 as the max restriction. That's a turbo engine which probably has a higher restriction than a naturally aspirated engine.

7394 said:

Filter Minder is 136501-00408 series. Reads up to 8" H2O @ max.

What other specs are you referring to ?

Click to expand...

Thanks, just what I needed.

Re: Kawaski FR651V - FX air box conversion

You're welcome..

cpurvis- Good point... Yes, I'm aware the filter minder must have a correct calibrated rating for the application. Otherwise it's just an ornament.

I have Exactly what is used on FX Kawasaki V-twins, & Kohler.

Kawasaki Part # 52005-2152

Re: Kawaski FR651V - FX air box conversion

7394 said:

You're welcome..

cpurvis- Good point... Yes, I'm aware the filter minder must have a correct calibrated rating for the application. Otherwise it's just an ornament.

I have Exactly what is used on FX Kawasaki V-twins, & Kohler.

Kawasaki Part # 52005-2152

Click to expand...

That is the one I bought. Thanks.

:thumbsup:

Did you all have to rejet or adjust carb

markplusangela said:

Did you all have to rejet or adjust carb

Click to expand...

Depends on your altitude location. The higher up you are, the leaner the air. The richer it would run.

But for me, I did not have to make any carb changes. Mine (stock) hit 100 hours & spark plugs were still white.

Adding the Donaldson, has just barely given the spark plugs a very very slight tan color to the plugs, & it seems to run cooler & runs better for sure.

No regrets here.

7394 said:

Kawaski FR651V - FX air box conversion

Finally some pics.

Click to expand...

Lawn Addict.You’ve done a great job on the air box mate and should feel proud.You’ve put some forethought and effort into the job and pride into your work.

Semtex- Thank You, I appreciate the compliment. I think it did turn out well. I wanted it to "work & look" as if it had came that way. I believe I have achieved that.
I bought the Donaldson canister used from eBay off an FX691V Kawasaki & it was very dirty looking, so I got that cheap, with the mounting bracket & hose. It cleaned up to look almost new. I did get both New Air filters of course. .

7394 aka: Buddy

It's hard to get perspective on the block you installed in the old air box space. Do you have dimensions for it, or another picture that better shows it's shape? I like what you did here and want to do the same. Also, is this the kit that actually shows for the the FX motor?

kcwise1 said:

It's hard to get perspective on the block you installed in the old air box space. Do you have dimensions for it, or another picture that better shows it's shape? I like what you did here and want to do the same. Also, is this the kit that actually shows for the the FX motor?

Click to expand...

It was a 4x4 that I cut to size, to sit on the 4 protruding steps under the wood block. I first shaped the 4x4 so the OE filter flap would just close. And I lag screwed from everywhere there are arrows on my illustrations. Then thru the cover to hood down the bracket.
I got the canister & brackets used off ebay, for an FX 730, but put in new filters. Now depending on your elevation, you may need to re-jet to a leaner size jet.

No kit on mine, I built it my way.

Everyone considering this be advised: This will void the manufacturers warranty and is a federal EPA violation.

txmowman said:

Everyone considering this be advised: This will void the manufacturers warranty and is a federal EPA violation.

Click to expand...

How could better filtering of air void a warranty or be an EPA violation, considering that Kawasaki sells the same air filtering system on the FX engine models??

I could possibly see how it would void a mfgr warranty, if the homeowner didn't seal it right or something to cause it to suck dust. But no way Jose on the EPA deal...

I get it, it is considered tampering with emissions. I'm gonna go hide now.

7394 said:

I get it, it is considered tampering with emissions. I'm gonna go hide now.

Click to expand...

How could it be, when the FX has that air filter setup?

cpurvis said:

How could it be, when the FX has that air filter setup?

Click to expand...

I Bet it has to be installed by some EPA certified mechanic/Tech.

The FX models have 2 bbl carbs, & FR & FS have 1 bbl carbs. So I don't see an issue. But that's me.

I was told @ the Dealer when I got my new Kawasaki, if I did that conversion. My engine warranty would be VOID.

Guess he really did not need to know that.. LOL

7394 said:

The FX models have 2 bbl carbs, & FR & FS have 1 bbl carbs. So I don't see an issue. But that's me.

I was told @ the Dealer when I got my new Kawasaki, if I did that conversion. My engine warranty would be VOID.

Guess he really did not need to know that.. LOL

Click to expand...

Did he explain what adverse consequences a better air cleaning system was going to cause?

Wouldn't adding a sock to the oval FR filter be a similar crime against the environment? Can I expect a visit from the Environment Police Agency soon?

Baldwin and Engineaire both sell large twin element 3 stage air filters for just about every engine ever made .
Mechanics who were not fully asleep during their tech classes will know that carbs are jetted to have the correct air/fuel ratio from a clean filter to a 50% blocked air filter.
Thus a brand new filter will be a touch lean & a heavily clogged filter will be a tad rich and a fully clogged filter will choke the engine.
Idiots conflate a CAR TRUCK or MOTORCYCLE engine with a governed fix speed and fixed timing mower engine.
The air?fuel requirements and in particular the air flow requirements are massively different in particular with the air flow requirements

cpurvis said:

Did he explain what adverse consequences a better air cleaning system was going to cause?

Wouldn't adding a sock to the oval FR filter be a similar crime against the environment? Can I expect a visit from the Environment Police Agency soon?

Click to expand...

He only stated, if modified in any way other than by a Licensed Dealer, (cause they make $0.) it is considered tampering with the emissions. Which is BS. But they will sell the foam pre-filter. And instead of a sock, I used to use womens sheer stockings, cut to fit.

Used to be you could chose which air filter system you wanted on Kaws & they would install on your new machine. A Tech @ Kawasaki® told me this.

I was1/2 tempted to simply swap blower housings. But they each have a Serial number. So that won't fly. & I likely will sell the Toro, as it seems Dealers are having trouble getting new machines. And I really do not need 2.

bertsmobile1 said:

Baldwin and Engineaire both sell large twin element 3 stage air filters for just about every engine ever made .
Mechanics who were not fully asleep during their tech classes will know that carbs are jetted to have the correct air/fuel ratio from a clean filter to a 50% blocked air filter.
Thus a brand new filter will be a touch lean & a heavily clogged filter will be a tad rich and a fully clogged filter will choke the engine.
Idiots conflate a CAR TRUCK or MOTORCYCLE engine with a governed fix speed and fixed timing mower engine.
The air?fuel requirements and in particular the air flow requirements are massively different in particular with the air flow requirements

Click to expand...

Bert- That is good info. & Very true about filters

& on Ebay now is some dude selling FX Air filter kits for FR & FS. The design is laughable.

cpurvis said:

How could better filtering of air void a warranty or be an EPA violation, considering that Kawasaki sells the same air filtering system on the FX engine models??

Click to expand...

The FX models are EPA rated for the canister filter. Its quite simple.

txmowman said:

The FX models are EPA rated for the canister filter. Its quite simple.

Click to expand...

Rated? What does that mean? Does the FX filter change the fuel/air ratio? What does it to to an FR that knocks it out of calibration, or 'rating' as you put it.

txmowman said:

The FX models are EPA rated for the canister filter. Its quite simple.

Click to expand...

And Kawasaki offer the Baldwin canister filter as a dealer fitted upgrade for both the FR & FS although it is quite expensive to fit to a FR
There is no difference between the FS , FR , & FX engines as far as emissions go
Same bore , stroke , valves, cams, ignition modules are all the same
The FR got a cheaper air filter with no prefilter foam
The FS got a better air filter with a pre filter foam wrap
Their carburettors are identical & use the same jets .
Both are EPA certified , the FR for 12 months & the FS for 24 months
This difference is purely due to expected engine wear & yearly hours
The FX got a double barrel carb which fixes the induction bias because whichever side fires last runs richer than the one that fires first due to the stop start air flow
The FX is also EPA certified for 24 months
The canister air filter offers a slightly faster engine response because of slightly lower resistance to air flow.
And it is so small that there is absolutely no difference in engine speeds filter connected to filter removed
In fact there is no difference across the entire range filter on to filter off.
Again you are conflaiting fixed speed mower engines with variable speed automotive engines where the air flow restrictions created by the filter do make a difference to engine tuning. These are MOWER ENGINES not F1 race engines .

And FWIW I have fitted canister filters to at least a 1/2 dozen FR engines for commercial customers who have blown their engines , most would be pushing 3000 hour by now and all are running fine .

It is one thing to read what is on the label
It is a different thing all together to understand what is written & why it is so .

Well my thread has gotten some new legs. I can report my Toro FR/FX converted Kawi engine is still running good as new on my Toro.

What kills the FR's is the poor air filter, particularly if the mower is a ZTR with a bagger on it.
Have needed to fit new rings to a couple like that with bores glass smooth after a year or so.
One owner insisted on making a warranty clam as FR's have a 5 year warranty down here .
Cost him $ 250 ( Aus) to have Kawakasi knock it back on top of what I charged for the hone & new rings .

Plan to convert my New Kawi as well, maybe after warranty (3 yrs)

But I run the FS air filter & foam pre-filter for now.

I have a Donaldson on my FR691 , with a 1..8" ( water column) minder. So my thinking on the "running rich, causing EPA / CARB issues"
is pretty simple:

Other than providing nice, filtered air, and some air restriction, what else is there? (In terms of the filter interacting with the engine).

I respectfully put forward that the only thing that the filter could "do" to cause any running rich condition is causing excessive air restriction. Those who have a filter minder on the
housing can verify that this filter/ housing combo, when clean, causes <=1" water column restriction max when operating at max RPM. This seems to me
in-line with the new OEM tiny filter, so that seems like no problem to me.

So: The Donaldson cylindrical filter and housing measurably and demonstrably does not cause unreasonably high air restriction. I recommend to put a minder on any such conversion,
which will demonstrate at a glance, that the replacement air box works well within the desired parameters.

Tampering is defined as removing, or "rendering ineffective" a listed component, such as the air filter. Removal for "Replacement" is specifically allowed.
I do not see how replacing the air filter with one which has identical or better specifications, esp. the air restriction, which is most relevant here, would be "rendering ineffective".

It can be argued that the cylindrical housing and filters provide several advantages compared to the OEM paper filter, and no disadvantages.

E.g.:
Better filtration efficiency throughout the life of the filter
Significantly longer service interval
With a Minder added, there is no need to perform risky visual inspections.
Improved filter media tear/leak protection via providing an extra "safety" filter

We know that these air boxes are used by the manufacturer on their premium engine models, so the manufacturer is familiar with the
properties and advantages of this filtering solution.

I think an engine manufacturer would have an uphill battle denying warranty coverage, because of the Magnuson - Moss warranty act in the US.
as I recall the gist of it : a manufacturer cannot mandate a particular brand of a replacable/wear item, as a condition to maintain warranty
unless they are willing to provide such component free of charge.

But, if you are concerned about this, preserve and put the puny oem filter back on the engine before any warranty work/claim.

BTW dealers perhaps could have an interest in selling you small filters at big prices, so their advice in this matter is hardly impartial.

bertsmobile1 said:

And Kawasaki offer the Baldwin canister filter as a dealer fitted upgrade for both the FR & FS although it is quite expensive to fit to a FR

Click to expand...

Do they? I could not find anything like that. This was the first thing I asked my dealer, if there was a filter / airbox upgrade option
for the FR engine and he said "no". aslthough he agreed they "should".

So now I am curious. where does Kawasaki offer a Baldwin airbox upgrade, and how much
coin they want for it?

I did it "my way" because did not see Kawi offering an "official" upgrade.

Down here I think it was a $ 600 upgrade which included the steel blower housing and the filter .
Not real popular because the FX engine is only $ 800 more .
Only know it because had a customer ask me how much to do it as comparred to having the dealer do it.
I ended up putting on an EngineAire one because it is about 1/3 the price and I fit them to the ROPS, not the blower housing so it is easier for me to remove the housing when cleaning the engine.
From memory I charged out about $ 450 for the job.
She has never been back so I suppose it is working fine.
RPOS are manditory on all ZTR's down here and it is so much easier to mount on rather than the blower housing , just need a couple of feet more air tube which is really cheap.
You only need to look at where & how they mount filters to skid steers to realize that mounting onto the engine is silly but of course easier for the mower factory as it becomes a single drop in item.
Kohlers seem to be the worst.
Got a couple of them where the canister filter adds near an hour to removing the blower housing , so of course it never happens till it should have been done 3 seasons ago .

If mounted properly to the blower housing, as I have done. It is simple to remove blower housing with 1 hose clamp needing loosening as you would anyhow.

Then whole works lifts off & it still looks stock on the machine. .

coder said:

Do they? I could not find anything like that. This was the first thing I asked my dealer, if there was a filter / airbox upgrade option
for the FR engine and he said "no". aslthough he agreed they "should".

So now I am curious. where does Kawasaki offer a Baldwin airbox upgrade, and how much
coin they want for it?

I did it "my way" because did not see Kawi offering an "official" upgrade.

Click to expand...

I knew I had seen the kit somewhere
So here it is on offer from an on line parts retailer
Their SKU number is their suppliers number
Canister filter kit for FS & FR

And the same kit from my wholesaler
FR & FS filter upgrade
Unfortunately RGS have the worst computer searching program ever written.
Comparred to their ordering system Fortran that I had to use at college is very user friendly and Cobol is Apple type intuiative.
If you take the "Kaw" off the parts numbers listed, they are the actual Kawakasi Australia part numbers which are mostly the same as Kawakasi USA part numbers
Not it shows all of the parts needed & their Kawakasi numbers except the nuts & bolts.
This kit says with the blower housing so it is easy to remove the blower housing for cleaning the fins.

Note it does not come with a flow meter and uses the single element , not dual element filter

Are those kits aftermarket kits, or are they "approved" by Kawasaki?

Not that I care much, just curious. ( I already convinced myself it is a good idea to put a cylindrical filter on the engine, without any downside)
Super expensive,. Partly because they replace the air cooiling shroud, which IMO is not needlessly.

I got my kit here: https://powerequipmentman.com/collections/best-sellers/products/air-filter-upgrade-kit
$180-ish, including an inner and outer filter. You remove the OEM air filter cover, and their bracket screws right into the into the original air filter cover's
existing mounting holes. You could probably piece a kit together from ebay parts cheaper, but you would have to probably drill the air cowl.

What I esp. like about the kit I linked to: you can remove it and put pack the original filter. kit. If heaved forbid I need some warranty work, I can remove the
cylindrical filter kit, and restore the original configuration and none is the wiser. I do not want to waste my breath arguing with Kawi that this filter kit is "OK"
no matter how many ways I can prove and demonstrate that the cylindrical filter works better in every way than their silly little filter they insist on putting on the
FR engines. I lack the time and energy to try to lead any horse to the water, if the horse insists on not drinking.

Remember I am in OZ so those are monopoly money dollars
and if you look at the RGS page you will see they are all genuine Kawakasi parts with Kawakasi part numbers as there is a full break down of the "kit"
As to weather kawakasi offer it as a kit or it was assembled by RGS, no idea but they are all genuine parts, no aftermarket bits at all
The next size up uses the twin element filter which of course is better still .
RGS are a wholesalers and do sell into dealers , they are also factory supported Kawakasi distributors that I get my complete engines from.
Allmowers are a retailer who sell on line
I have seen mowers in the dealers with the kits fitted listed as an option
Weather they came from the mower company that way or the dealer fitted them on site, no idea .

I asked my mower (Ariens) dealer about whether he or Kawasaki offers the cylindrical filters as an upgrade,
and he looked at me like I had 2 heads. So it does not look like they do in the US. All these upgrade kits are either
put together as a DIY solution, or some enterprising companies offer these like the folks I linked to.
Sort of an unofficial thing.

Some people in the various Kawasaki themed lists whine about these airboxes spreading
fear and uncertainty. The objections go like: Boo, you will be found out and loose your warranty or maybe fined by
the EPA because you are tinkering with emission control equipment. Took me a while and some research
to cut through all that BS, and convince myself that this was a good idea.

As previously stated.
They are all genuine Kawakasi parts in these kits .
ow down here we get lots of droughts so lots of dust so the local variants of most mowers come with better air filters than the std USA ones do.
Up until B & S took over Victa all local push mower variants either came with a snorkel as standard or as an optional extra.
This includes quality brands like Honda .
Now only Masport & Super Swift come std with snorkels which goes a long way to understanding why 20 years was around the average service life for a walk behind down here .

Bert, thanks for providing the Australian context. I was already convinced that fearmongering here in the US had no rational basis.

My filter minder demonstrates to me that the snorkel style airbox, and the safe and efficient double cylindrical filter does not cause
undue air restriction compared to my "factory equipped" air filter.

Assertions that these filters are a misfit for the cheaper Kawi engines, and cause them to run lean are apparent BS.
Anybody can get a filter minder for $40, install it on the airbox and see for themselves.

Some people who posted their experience with the upgraded air box report being able to run for years without replacing
the air filter. Or, if they replace it, they only do the outer filter, because the inner (safety) filter is still pristine.

The only time I replace the air filter on a snorkel fitted mower is when there are so many spider webs I can not see the colour of the filter paper.
We used both the filter in the top of the snorkel ( Victa , Rover Pace & Masport ) or strait snorkels that feed onto the standard air filter ( B & S engines & Honda )
Honda provide a replacement main jet wit their kit because the instruction say it will cause the engine to run lean, however I have never fitted one & never had a problem with the engines overheating .
Now this might be a problem in a lab test cell but definately not in use.
My wholesaler used to sell a replacement B & S panel filter cover with a spiggot to take 2" diameter air tube which is standard for most mowers.
However B & S asked them to stop selling it so they deleted it from their line and the next catalogue had a lot more genuine B & S parts in it .
Stens deleted it from their next catalogue as well.
None of the mowers I have fitted the snorkels to have ever had a filter change since it was fitted and for some that is now 9 years ago .
The Suzuki engined Toros down here came with snorkels fitted standard and the jets in their Mikuni carbs are the same as Mikuni list for the carb in the USA where snorkels were not fitted.

Bert, Do you use filter minders (Vacuum gauges) to actually measure the air filter restriction? I get that too much restriction can cause running rich,
e.g.: if the restriction increases beyond 4" (afaik) and the filter is supposed to be replaced at 7-8" .

I would love to hear someone propose a theory on how an airbox and filter exactly cause the "running lean" condition. (We are talking about non-fuel injected OPE-s).

Filter Minders aren't one size fits all. They come in different restrictions that have to be matched to the filter element.

I'm looking at a Donaldson restriction indicator right now that is marked for "30 inches H2O" and that was too much for the engine and Roots blower on a pneumatic truck and never got used. That truck, a KW T800 with L10 Cummins could tolerate 25" H2O, if I remember correctly. This indicator has only one band of restriction--red if 30" has been reached; clear if it has not.

You've got to get the max restriction from the filter manufacturer, then get the right Filter Minder.

coder said:

Bert, Do you use filter minders (Vacuum gauges) to actually measure the air filter restriction? I get that too much restriction can cause running rich,
e.g.: if the restriction increases beyond 4" (afaik) and the filter is supposed to be replaced at 7-8" .

I would love to hear someone propose a theory on how an airbox and filter exactly cause the "running lean" condition. (We are talking about non-fuel injected OPE-s)

Click to expand...

IMHO way too much theory and not enough practice
I fit one
Mower does not 8 stroke so it is not too rich
Motor does not surge so not too lean
Job done
I for one can not see any practical difference
I think they are associating a snorkel with a velocity stack
But the long & short is I have fitted several canister filters to commercial customers mowers that came without them and thousands of hours latter they are still running fine
Fitted one to a Time cutter residential with a bagger where the original filter had failed, that one is 4 years on now and still on the original element

And as was mentioned in the original reply, I work on a few skid steers & Dingos
These use horizontal shaft engines and canister filters but the carb jetting is the same .

Dust is the biggest enemy to your engine and a better air filter is the answer to excessive dust .

cpurvis said:

Filter Minders aren't one size fits all. They come in different restrictions that have to be matched to the filter element.

I'm looking at a Donaldson restriction indicator right now that is marked for "30 inches H2O" and that was too much for the engine and Roots blower on a pneumatic truck and never got used. That truck, a KW T800 with L10 Cummins could tolerate 25" H2O, if I remember correctly. This indicator has only one band of restriction--red if 30" has been reached; clear if it has not.

You've got to get the max restriction from the filter manufacturer, then get the right Filter Minder.

Click to expand...

Guilty, I tend to be a bit heavy on theory. I am a software guy.

AFAIK For the typical small 2 cylinder engine in the 15-30 hp range the correct minder measures in the 0-8 inch range.
My Kawi FR691 w a new filter pulls about 1" .

I am planning on changing the outer filter when it gets to 7", which
I do not expect to until a few years had passed.
Good luck getting any info out of Kawi, they just ignored me when I asked them. If anybody gets any info from them
on the max restriction, pls post.

Kawasaki or John Deere has a 0..8" minder (both are rebadged Donaldsons, the JD is a lot less money)
These actually read the actual restriction value within their range.

The JD is ~ half the money compared to the Kawi, and the writing is 180 degree turned, so you can actually read it easily
when it is mounted on the filter housing, using the provided threaded hole. Model number: John Deere AUC 16126
You can get it here: https://www.misternezq.com/john-deere-air-filter-restriction-indicator-auc16126-p-18813.htm
Plus it comes with the double threaded ( threaded on both ends) brass nipple to mount on the Donaldson housing.

I built this Donaldson conversion for my former Toro TC. It is still running fine. The new owner is happy with the machine.

I've been working on an updated version for my new Liberty, but warranty prevents me modifying it at this time.

For those not willing to fork out the money for the conversion, add a foam pre-filter to the standard paper element and clean the pre-filter regularly. Get a new paper element and pre-filter every 100 hours.
Using a bagging system is going to generate more dust.

7394 said:

Kawaski FR651V - FX air box conversion

Click to expand...

Got any details on how to do this on a 2023 Kawasaki FR691V 23 hp?

I just found an entire kits on eBay at....

7394 said:

I have Exactly what is used on FX Kawasaki V-twins, & Kohler.

Kawasaki Part # 52005-2152

Click to expand...

Now that are using Kawasaki 52005-0765 HDC Filter Minder
(Replaces 52005-2152)

Jimmy the Lock said:

Got any details on how to do this on a 2023 Kawasaki FR691V 23 hp?

I just found an entire kits on eBay at....

Kawasaki FR Air Filter Upgrade Kit | eBay

This kit includes everything you need to upgrade your Kawasaki FR series engine to the FX canister style air cleaner. Replaces air filter part number 11013-0752. The FR kit will be a direct bolt on for the Kawasaki FR651V, FR691V, FR730V.

www.ebay.com

Click to expand...

That feebay kit mounts to the "PLASTIC" blower housing. How long do you think that's gonna last before it cracks ?

7394 said:

That feebay kit mounts to the "PLASTIC" blower housing. How long do you think that's gonna last before it cracks ?

Click to expand...

It has a metal plate that mounts directly to the bolt holes the door uses.

You remove the door and use the 2 bolt holes so the metal plate is bolting to metal

Theirs keep leaves the door off, so I'd probably figure a way to put the door back on so there's no gaping hole there

Other than that it would bolt in to metal and be sturdy.

The kits is supposed to be off of some other mower that take this type of filter

You can watch their install video at

I'll definitely take their decal off since this is going an outlaw mower club rig!

Sir, have you even read the engine warranty statement that came with your mower? My bet is that you tossed it and the owners manual in the trash the day you bought it! Modifications to the engine void your warranty with Kawasaki. Furthermore, modifying the engine in a way that changes the emissions is an EPA violation. A lot of posters on this forum poo poo that because they are shade tree wannabe mechanics. If you feel you need the added filtration then you bought the wrong mower model.

If using OEM conversion kit parts I don't see how that voids the warranty as it will provide better filtration but DIYer do haphazardly convert these to the HD filter system. The FR filter does clog easier and the filter covers before the latest version tend to break off. And FR design being used on ZTR is just asking for the filters
to be clogged easily too. So if EPA can prove that these makes the emissions worst by having a filter that filters better and stays cleaner longer then so be it. But in my opinion a filter that clogs easily will produce more emissions over the lifetime of the engine.

Here is a couple of the conversion using Kawasaki parts.

Due Kawasaki changes some of parts maybe different from these but give you the idea how the FR to FX filter change out looks.

I haven't done any as most of my customers are too cheap to have it done.

Hey @StarTech, this is not an OEM kit. The kit is not available from Kawasaki. Even if it is made up of OEM parts, it still is not an OEM kit. For answers on emissions, I would recommend you contact the EPA.

What you wrote about customers being too cheap, you are spot on. That is why we are having thos conversation. Customers don’t want to do their part but love to cry warranty.

I didn't say it was a standard kit from Kawasaki USA but is a kit using OEM Kawasaki parts. May left that impression. But I have a list of the required parts that can be ordered thru the distributor for Kawasaki parts. These kits are readily available in Australia from multiple vendors.

I think the reason Kawasaki doesn't make these as kit is multiple reasons. One of which is the lack of demand and that they prefer selling the more expensive FX engines. If the actual demand was there then they might put together the kits. Meanwhile I just order the OEM parts and assemble the kits here. I might start selling those kits via eBay soon, just haven't decided on it yet.

Contacting the EPA is like getting the IRS to correct a simple problem that has prevented me cashing my refund checks since 2019. I just got in another $2000+ check that I had return as I can't cash it at my bank. And I not going to forge it and risk the $10,000 or ten years in prison. At least they keep on adding interest to what is owed. 5% interest is a lot better than my bank's 0.5% interest.

Besides I have contacted the EPA about a local business that burning unsorted imported construction waste and they did absolutely nothing about it. The business does have a permit to burn their own wood waste but not waste imported. Someone is paying off the local EPA inspector well. There have been days that I could not even see the neighbor's house for smoke when the wind is blowing my way.

Our national government is currently mostly non functional.

txmowman said:

Sir, have you even read the engine warranty statement that came with your mower? My bet is that you tossed it and the owners manual in the trash the day you bought it! Modifications to the engine void your warranty with Kawasaki. Furthermore, modifying the engine in a way that changes the emissions is an EPA violation. A lot of posters on this forum poo poo that because they are shade tree wannabe mechanics. If you feel you need the added filtration then you bought the wrong mower model.

Click to expand...

This filter housing simply provides better filtration and does not change the air / fuel ratio at all so this is no EPA violation at all... it's just better air filtration that catches mo dirt which is better for the health of my engine which comes first.

I'll be keeping the original parts so if there was a warranty issue I'll simply put the OE parts back on before taking it to the dealer. They won't know the difference if it came to that and since this filter housing is not going to wrack anything it's a non-issue.

txmowman said:

For answers on emissions, I would recommend you contact the EPA.

Click to expand...

Contacting them for anything just puts a target on your back because they'll note that you have not gone all electric therefore they'll put you and your cattle on their environmental terrorist watch list!

StarTech said:

Our national government is currently mostly non functional.

Click to expand...

Exactly. Best thing to do is not get involved.

I found out that the air box kit consists of OEM Kawasaki parts... the only thing this guy made was the bracket.

All Kawasaki parts used, except the 4x4 block of wood to make it bullet proof. And the housing /rain cap were used off eBay. the Filters were NEW & OE Kawasaki.,

FR to FX Air Box mod https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/showthread.php/52096-Kawaaski-FR651V-FX-air-box-conversion

Mine has a custom metal bracket that bolts in to the holes
where the door hinge bolts go so it'll be strong and sturdy

Jimmy the Lock said:

Mine has a custom metal bracket that bolts in to the holes
where the door hinge bolts go so it'll be strong and sturdy View attachment 67974

Click to expand...

I just don't how long the plastic engine shroud is going to hold up to the vibrations and the weight of the Donaldson air cleaner. Really depends on use and what smacks the air cleaner.

The conversion kit that I have PNs for include the new metal engine shroud from the FX engine. It also provide better air flow over the cylinder fin and ignition coils.

Either the 59066-7061-753 or 59066-0831 depending which engine it is. Now of that adds another $120+ (my cost) to the kit price.

StarTech said:

I just don't how long the plastic engine shroud is going to hold up to the vibrations and the weight of the Donaldson air cleaner

Click to expand...

Mine does not bolt to the plastic engine shroud at all.

It uses the 2 bolts the original air filter door uses... and there is metal that the bolts screw in to.

So the bracket is bolting in to metal that is underneath the engine shroud, not to the plastic shroud itself.

Now just where is the metal is on the FR730V that the adapter is mounting to? The air filter cover screws don't even go all the way through the shroud.


The only mounting place is holes on the lower side of the intake manifold and those are not FS or FR filter cover screw holes.

StarTech said:

ow just where is the metal is on the FR730V that the adapter is mounting to?

Click to expand...

I have the FR691V 23 hp, not the FR730V

Same dang engine crankcase block 49120-0935. Even the same cylinder heads, pistons, crankshaft, and rods.

StarTech said:

Same dang engine crankcase block 49120-0935. Even the same cylinder heads, pistons, crankshaft, and rods.

Click to expand...

Don't know what to tell ya... when you take the screws out to remove the OE air filter door, there is metal back there where these screws go in to.

So, no need to worry about my air filter upgrade as the bracket will be bolted in to metal and be very sturdy

StarTech said:

Now just where is the metal is on the FR730V that the adapter is mounting to? The air filter cover screws don't even go all the way through the shroud.
View attachment 67981
View attachment 67982
The only mounting place is holes on the lower side of the intake manifold and those are not FS or FR filter cover screw holes.

Click to expand...

You are correct. The bracket that comes with the kit mounts to the plastic engine shroud. The two screws that hold the filter door on are reused for the mounting bracket. The setup looks kind of flimsy to me.

StarTech said:

Now just where is the metal is on the FR730V that the adapter is mounting to? The air filter cover screws don't even go all the way through the shroud.
View attachment 67981
View attachment 67982
The only mounting place is holes on the lower side of the intake manifold and those are not FS or FR filter cover screw holes.

Click to expand...

Beings I remove my plastic blower housing every year end, I can confirm there is NO metal there to support that Donaldson..

MParr said:

You are correct. The bracket that comes with the kit mounts to the plastic engine shroud. The two screws that hold the filter door on are reused for the mounting bracket. The setup looks kind of flimsy to me.

Click to expand...

It is a flimsy set up w/that kit..

Here's what it's like in there. https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/showthread.php/52096-Kawaaski-FR651V-FX-air-box-conversion

So why would you do this conversion, maybe because the oem filter is so far down it picks up way to much crap in the filter causing you clean it way to often, LOL

RayMcD said:

So why would you do this conversion,

Click to expand...

Because I could.

RayMcD said:

So why would you do this conversion, maybe because the oem filter is so far down it picks up way to much crap in the filter causing you clean it way to often, LOL

Click to expand...

Because they leak if you are not very careful when you replace them and because Kawasaki use really soft rings so they will wear out in no time flat, particularly if used on a ZTR with a bagger
And as mentioned before, I fit the filter to the ROPS frame so it is not in the way

Whow, so the truth comes out, thanks r

When the OZ $ went to $ 1.40 US quite a few opportunistic a-holes raced to Cal & bought container loads of end of season run out mowers, sipped them to OZ and litterally sold them off the back of the trucks .
There were a lot of Timecutters , many fitted with the fabricated deck and some with baggers.
There sold for around 1/2 the store price of Toro mowers and several single line dealers went bust
So I have around 8 of them in my run
Two of them started to burn oil like mad so they brought them to me to get an appraisal in order to claim warranty against Toro Aust .
Toro told the to go jump , quite rightfully and send their claims to Toro USA ( and 1 idiot did ) .
SO next thing was "can you fix them" so I replaced the first with an FS 651 which was on special and I kept the old engine.
Covid happened next and then trump had his phoney trade war with China so there no Kawakasi part to be had for love nor money.
So I turned to Total Seal and got a set or rings for around 1/3 the wholesale price I would pay here with the warning that these rings were a lot harder than the originals so rehone the bore & run them in carefully .
That engine is doing fine but I made the owner shift to full synthetic .
Now I am not a metrologist so the best gear I have only goes down to 1/10 th of a thou and in both engines there was less than 0.0002" wear in the bore but around 0.020" radial wear on the rings .

Interesting...................

Hard bore soft rings make for an engine that runs in very quickly .
Most Mitsubishi engines are the same I use a lot of L300 vans and I have needed to re ring a few but never a rebore except for the one that a rod let go
My fault of course .

Works for me..