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With bagger, 17.5 hp B&S. Fully serviced, new belts. Looks to have been very well cared for. Paid 500 + 50 delivery.

Seems like a fair deal, although this morning, I see the same mower w/bagger for 450 with Kohler engine. From what I understand, the Kohler is the better motor.

Would like to hear from anyone familiar with this model. What to look for?

Wouldn't mind adding a snowblower attachment if I can find one reasonably priced. Anyone have experience with this?

I've had an LT1000 bought new in mid-2005 for $900. I've found it to be fine for the purpose intended, I have 1.5 acres of mostly weeds and tumbleweeds. I buy parts through online retailers as stuff does wear out, like blades pulleys, belts, spindles. Dirt gets everywhere from my yard, definitely NOT a Kentucky 10-acre grassland !!

So I've learned how to service this myself, and I also resharpen blades a few times using a bench grinder (safety goggles !!!). I recommend the Harbor Freight lawn tractor jack highly, about $75 !!! Use your 20% off coupon https://www.harborfreight.com/high-lift-riding-lawn-mower-atv-lift-61523.html

I'll assume you aren't the guy to talk to about snowblowers!

pete c said:

I'll assume you aren't the guy to talk to about snowblowers!

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Correct !!!

But actually the northern and NE part of Arizona is not desert, and does get a fair amount of snow.

For model comparison, you need to post the model #...917.xxxxxx or such. Probably under the seat.
Big question is...what tranny does it have?

I've always figured a rider with snowblower makes sense if you have a 500 ft paved driveway, not for any short path cleanups. Better to just buy a standard walk behind unit. Just too much maneuvering. (how do you spell that) The Briggs engine is as good as any in that series I think, if well maintained, although I prefer Kohler just because.

dougand3 said:

For model comparison, you need to post the model #...917.xxxxxx or such. Probably under the seat.
Big question is...what tranny does it have?

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6 speed gear shift..

Think I need brakes.

Was going down hill today and stood on the clutch/brake. Nothing. Had to down shift to slow it.

One other thing. I was mowing on a sidehill, maybe 10% grade and I heard what sounded like engine knock. I immediately shut it down. I restarted with low throttle and moved it to level ground and checked the oil. It was a good bit low. It took a little better than a half quart to get it to the full mark. Sounds good now. Will definitely keep an eye on the oil.

pete c said:

6 speed gear shift..

Think I need brakes.

Was going down hill today and stood on the clutch/brake. Nothing. Had to down shift to slow it.

One other thing. I was mowing on a sidehill, maybe 10% grade and I heard what sounded like engine knock. I immediately shut it down. I restarted with low throttle and moved it to level ground and checked the oil. It was a good bit low. It took a little better than a half quart to get it to the full mark. Sounds good now. Will definitely keep an eye on the oil.

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6 speed, I would watch the axle seals at the wheels, I had one & that's where I had issues leaking just out of warranty..

I NEVER start my mowers with out 1st checking the oil. And you mowing on slopes is more critical for a topped up FULL level of oil.

Brakes are tiny, follow the brake rod back to the transaxle, there will be a round disc (the brake rotor) maybe 2inches diameter, the brake pads will be on that disc. (miniature disc brake set up. )

If you are somewhat mechanical the brake pad change should be easy.

7394 said:

I NEVER start my mowers with out 1st checking the oil. And you mowing on slopes is more critical for a topped up FULL level of oil.

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Very good advice.

pete c said:

6 speed gear shift..

Think I need brakes.

Was going down hill today and stood on the clutch/brake. Nothing. Had to down shift to slow it.

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On my LT1000, at least half a dozen years ago, mine LT1000 also lost its clutch/brake; it turned out to be something clogged with dirt/debris or some adjustment, can't remember. I do remember this happened though.



After home-made fix

Cusser- Ouch on your garage door. Bummer. But you fixed it, that's the main thing.

Most disc brake pads are simple to replace if the rear wheel will come off and the rotor isn't rusted to the splined shaft. I've never bought brake pads. If you have one, it's much quicker to cut brake pad material from an old automotive brake with a hack saw.

Further the the above.
Put a tray under the brake when you dissasemble it as there is a thin steel shim on the back of the pads that falls off & gets lost.
The pins tend to rust solid into the brake caliper.
Do not touch the middle bolt, that is the adjustment so best left alone till it is back together and might need adjusting.
The pads are a current Tecumseh part and all of the aftermarket mower parts companies do cheaper copies.
Car pad material is a lot harder than the mower material so will wear the disc if you use the brake for stopping a moving mower a lot.
However in most cases it is just a parking brake so the hardness is not a problem.