It's just a lil-ol fuze problem - LMBO!!!!!

[InaHurrytoscrewitup]

Ok lets get to the point, and go ahead and admit it - I SCREWED UP - Was in a hurry when I installed a new battery, Not paying attention and talking to my son - HOOKED THE DANG THING UP BACKWARDS - NOW, The 20 amp fuze keeps blowing as soon as I turn the key, Before it even gets to start position - What the HE@# did I tear up THIS TIME!!!! It's a Craftsman DYT4000 - Model 917.2736403 - I really need to get it fixed quick, I use it to mow close to 3 acres of 30 degree banking, that My John Deere LA130 isnt capable of climbing, due to NOT ENOUGH POWER..... But thats another problem, for another day - I CAN HEAR THE GRASS GROWING ON THE HILLSIDE OUTSIDE - HELP!!!!!!!!!!
additional info - The Wiring harness's all look brand new (118hr's on tractor - pressure washed after each use, Garage kept) NO MELTED, OR FRAYED WIRES, Not grounding out ANYWHERE - I FRIED SOMETHING, when hooked battery up bass-ackwards - Starter turns freely, bendix moves, {While using 2 jumper wire's, instead of fuze} with key in ON position, touching wire's together cause arc.... Have also tried disconnecting regulator, mounted on block beside starter, With same result - Blown 20amp fuzes.... It eats em, as fast as I can replace em - replace fuze, turn key on, POP goes the fuze....Switch checks good I wish it were that simple - Ive fried something, when I hooked 360 amp battery up bass-ackwards - It made a little (almost grinding) sound, as soon as I turned the key on, after replacing battery, and instantly dawned on me what I had done - - - - Oooops toooo late - - - sound lasted about 1.5 seconds and then the first fuze blew...... 7 more since lol - - - Oh and 1 more tid bit of info - that sound I spoke of, was coming from side of engine (around starter) thats why I disconnected the reg, to see if thats what I fried - No such luck

 

[motoman]

I own a DYT4000 but have never even looked for a schematic. The symptom is a short to ground thru a normally open connection. Wild guess: If the solenoid (has one?) was damaged and stuck on every time you turned the key not 12 v , but full bat current is directed to the starter. If the starter is not operating (frozen? won't disengage?) it will draw over 20 amps instantly. Also what do you mean the switch is ok? Continuity? If you could , substituting parts would help. Next, diodes live in the regulator? And in the coils? (I think). They are biased to transmit current in one direction only, but can be damaged. This is not a solution , but no one else is even cheering you on. :smile: