Export thread

I think you'll be just fine.:thumbsup:

No problem... you likely had better lubrication with the multi viscosity oil... I would never use a single wt. oil , especially in an air cooled engine. The only way to improve on a multi vis oil is to use a Synthetic multi vis... and the only improvement to that would be.. use a Diesel rated Synthetic multi viscosity...

You Never had a "lack of lubrication" using the 10-40.... :smile:KennyV

KennyV said:

No problem... you likely had better lubrication with the multi viscosity oil... I would never use a single wt. oil , especially in an air cooled engine. The only way to improve on a multi vis oil is to use a Synthetic multi vis... and the only improvement to that would be.. use a Diesel rated Synthetic multi viscosity...

You Never had a "lack of lubrication" using the 10-40.... :smile:KennyV

Click to expand...

Kenny, beg to differ but the last half dozen new push mowers I have purchased clearly said "do not use 10W-40 oil in the engines. The majority recommended a straight 30W.

And using diesel rated synthetic multi-viscosity on a little mower engine would be extreme overkill.

I just changed the oil on my Yardpro (Husqvarna) Kohler engined pusher before I came inside tonite. Used a straight 30W which is what was recommended.

jmurray01 said:

As you probably know, I've been using 10W40 oil in my Mountfield 100cc mower since I bought it.

I've only used it for 4 hours with the 10W40 though.

I know I shouldn't have used the 10W40, but I did, who knows why!

Anyway, I bought some Mountfield SAE30 (Straight-30) from the garden store today, which is exactly what the mower says it needs.

The mower hasn't shown any signs of damage, so I hope 4 hours of use with 10W40 oil hasn't done any lasting damage...

Will it have ?

Personally, I think it'll have actually helped the "bedding in" period, as the lack of lubrication will have helped the components get into the right "groove", am I right ?

Click to expand...

Every new 4 stroke small engine I have owned has been given an oil change within ONE OPERATING HOUR. A new engine always has a lot of crud and metal shavings inside it, and to leave the crap inside the engine until the first specified oil change makes no sense to me at all. Same as with my new cars or trucks, I change the oil and filter within 300 miles of ownership. Why leave all the crud in the engines for 5000 miles?

jmurray01 said:

As you probably know, I've been using 10W40 oil in my Mountfield 100cc mower since I bought it.

I've only used it for 4 hours with the 10W40 though.

I know I shouldn't have used the 10W40, but I did, who knows why!

Anyway, I bought some Mountfield SAE30 (Straight-30) from the garden store today, which is exactly what the mower says it needs.

The mower hasn't shown any signs of damage, so I hope 4 hours of use with 10W40 oil hasn't done any lasting damage...

Will it have ?

Personally, I think it'll have actually helped the "bedding in" period, as the lack of lubrication will have helped the components get into the right "groove", am I right ?

Click to expand...

If anything should go awry with that engine...it's not because of 4 hours with 10w40. I'm sure of that.
I would not give it another thought.

RobertBrown said:

If anything should go awry with that engine...it's not because of 4 hours with 10w40. I'm sure of that.
I would not give it another thought.

Click to expand...

Made me think....every new mower I have purchased in the last 20 years came with a 21 ounce bottle of oil in the carton and there were warnings festooned all over the info included to be SURE to add the oil before starting the engine. All were packaged with 30W. Either Mountfield is penny pinching by not including oil with their new mowers, or they are putting in the wrong weight.

JDgreen said:

Made me think....every new mower I have purchased in the last 20 years came with a 21 ounce bottle of oil in the carton and there were warnings festooned all over the info included to be SURE to add the oil before starting the engine. All were packaged with 30W. Either Mountfield is penny pinching by not including oil with their new mowers, or they are putting in the wrong weight.

Click to expand...

I think he bought it from a dealer? Probably had dealer prep......

JDgreen said:

Every new 4 stroke small engine I have owned has been given an oil change within ONE OPERATING HOUR. A new engine always has a lot of crud and metal shavings inside it, and to leave the crap inside the engine until the first specified oil change makes no sense to me at all. Same as with my new cars or trucks, I change the oil and filter within 300 miles of ownership. Why leave all the crud in the engines for 5000 miles?

Click to expand...

Well my mower said to change it within five operating hours for the first change.

JDgreen said:

Made me think....every new mower I have purchased in the last 20 years came with a 21 ounce bottle of oil in the carton and there were warnings festooned all over the info included to be SURE to add the oil before starting the engine. All were packaged with 30W. Either Mountfield is penny pinching by not including oil with their new mowers, or they are putting in the wrong weight.

Click to expand...

Well it is very rare for a mower in the UK to come with oil.

your right it is rare in the uk my new mower came with non too as cfor the 10w 40 my 2003 ride on was that since i brought it last year as the previous owner had not read the mannual to see what oil it needed.it is now on sae-30 and there is no damage done even though itran on 10w 40 for 7 years :smile:

30w in the Kohler single lunger's.

10w30 in the twins.

Never use 10w40.

As long as I have been doing repairs and going to mfg tech schools, they have always harped on the general rule of thumb, if the average temp during operation is 50 deg f or above use 30W, below that 10-30, 10-40 for OHV with oil pump and filter,only 3 types of oil I ever stocked or sold in the shop, I have always gone by this and not ever had an engine go bad on me. I have a 87 snapper push with a Tech TVS 105 on it and it doesn't use any oil, I change the oil every spring (just a trim mower for the last 10 yrs). My brother is a synthetic oil nut abd complains all the time that his engines burn oil and has to add oil every 2 or 3 times he uses them.

KennyV said:

No problem... you likely had better lubrication with the multi viscosity oil... I would never use a single wt. oil , especially in an air cooled engine. The only way to improve on a multi vis oil is to use a Synthetic multi vis... and the only improvement to that would be.. use a Diesel rated Synthetic multi viscosity...

You Never had a "lack of lubrication" using the 10-40.... :smile:KennyV

Click to expand...

KennyV. Well we meet again on a Lubrication question and I suppose we're going to probably butt heads a little with some differences of opinion or maybe differences in what we read or know about lubes. Several years ago 10w-40 oil was a problem in itself. Also many people caused themselves problems using it over the recommended oil in their vehicle 10w-30 or a straight weight oil. It so happened that 10w-40 was over extended to try and get the 40 to meet new standards set by the API. Many just out of habit reached on the shelf thinking 40 is better than 30, but during this era it was not true. Remember worn camshafts on Chevys? Partially due to this from my information, Chevy is some to blame here also. I agree jmurray01 should be fine with his mower. Look at the temp range you will be operating in and go for the best average. Sometime we do fall out of it on occasions at or climate will make sure of that. Kenny V for now so long:wink:

Hello, I have a mower with a PowerMore engine and in the manual it shows its ok to use 10w40 as a matter of fact I use 10w40 in several of my push mowers and havent had any problems, one B@S Quantum sees regular yearly oil changes with 10w40 for about seven years now with no problems.

The early 10W40 oils had problems... That is Not the case today , even with mineral oils... I do hope you are not going to suggest that today's synthetic formulation have anything in common with the first attempt to widen the range in mineral oils...
:smile:KennyV

jamesslcx said:

Hello, I have a mower with a PowerMore engine and in the manual it shows its ok to use 10w40 as a matter of fact I use 10w40 in several of my push mowers and havent had any problems, one B@S Quantum sees regular yearly oil changes with 10w40 for about seven years now with no problems.

Click to expand...

& you will continue having great service with a 10w40... :smile:KennyV

I have lawntractors older then i am with original motors - ive run practically every viscosity oil out there in em - 10w30/40 - 5w20/30 - 30 weight -15w20 even , i use a couple ounces of lucas oil engine oil enhancer in every motor i own - never had any of my motors come apart.

Usually i run 5w series oil in lately- couple still have the 15w20 in em . The only exception to running any oil is if its a brand new mower still under warranty - then id say go by what they say or it could be null and void if something happens.

I did not think the mower company's would every up date there manuals they stayed in the stone age for years but this past spring I bought a new JD with a B&S and it recommended 10-40

Only person who would use a straight weight is someone who knows nothing about oil and blindly follows outdated manuals.

The main reason engine last so much longer is because of multi grade oil.
Cummins engine did a test and found the 80 percent of the wear on an engine is done at start up.
Those who use a straight 30 put more wear on the engine before the oil warms and thins out than a multi grade would in years of service.

Ideal viscosity is 10cst and that is what a 30wt is at 212F but at 32F a 5wt is 583cst I would have to look up what a cold 30wt would be but it would be many times more than the 583 for 5wt.

Your straight 30 will not reach proper viscosity till it is 212F until then your engine will not have proper lubrication.
Kenny V is correct.

I have to laugh when I read that you should not use a diesel oil in a gas engine.
The average mower takes less than 2 quarts of oil but people argue that the extra couple bucks per year is too much cost well that is a small price to pay for the extra protection.

You need not worry.It will be fine.....

You guys all make good points about oil, I do tend to over analyze things somewhat.:smile: I guess as long as you maintain a mower properly it will last a long time. I have an old 1975 Dodge trk. thats been in the family since new and we always have run 10w40 in it so I always have some laying around. 10w40 has a lot of vis. index improvers in it, well most dino oil do, thats where synthetics have an advantage because they need less or so ive been told. I do think conventional oils are closing the performance gap somewhat. Synthetics are still very much better, I use them also but dino oils have served me well so far.

KennyV said:

The early 10W40 oils had problems... That is Not the case today , even with mineral oils... I do hope you are not going to suggest that today's synthetic formulation have anything in common with the first attempt to widen the range in mineral oils...
:smile:KennyV

Click to expand...

I agree it was the earlier 10w-40 thus my sentence started out with "several years ago" and like we both agree that problem has be corrected. I also agree with you on Synthetic oil being superior to dino oil although??????...........more to come in another thread I'm sure!:wink: Don't want to hijack jmurray01's thread.