Isn't fun correcting someone else's screw ups?

[StarTech]

Craftsman 13AN77XS093 sn 1K138B70082 with Briggs 31R907-0062-G1 Date Code 181003ZD

Customer brings in the mower with the following complaint. Mower only operates for up to 10 minutes before dying.

Things found on initial look over.

• New fuel solenoid new installed.
• New fuel wiring harness installed.

Upon closer inspection.

• Found that the grounding screw was the wrong one. Someone to use a sheet metal screw.
• Fish tank sealant used on the ground connection.
• Ground connection loose.
• On the other end of the new harness very poor electrical connection with cellophane tape used.

Initial repairs before test run.

• Clean and repaired the ground electrical connection and used the correct mounting screw.
• Repair the end on the electrical harness where the engine harness mates up with the mower harness with the correct electrical terminals and tied the harness up out the way.

After test run of 30 minutes and letting the mower sit for 30 minutes.

• Upon arrival back at the mower, I found fuel running all over the place.
• Engine hydro locked.
• Note: This mower had sat on the repair yard for nearly a week before without any fuel leaks.

Final repairs.

• Removed carburetor and cleaned out trash.
• Apparently the previous tech reversed the fuel filter as an insect was stuck in the fuel valve.
• Clean fuel line between carb and fuel filter.
• Replaced fuel filter.
• Change Oil.
• While I was working on the I notice the wrong terminal were in the fuel solenoid connector. Male terminals in place of female terminals.
• Replace the terminals.
• Zero Fuel leakage overnight.

Boy I hate having to go behind someone and correct their screw ups. But the customer is probably going to hate it more with he gets the bill.

One final note this engine had a Ruixing carburetor which the fuel solenoids tends to short out destroying the connector which why many after market replacements are sent with a new harness. Of the ones I have replaced they all had the right terminal on the solenoid except this one. Currently I have no idea which sent the solenoid to the other tech.

I had the Molex 02-06-1103 terminals on hand, terminal extractor, and an open barrel crimper so it was an easy fix using the existing wiring and connector housing.

 

[ILENGINE]

For me it is an older Yardman with Briggs V twin that in round one was the engine quit while mowing his lawn Found that customer had removed the carb and lost the fuel valve and has replaced it with one from a tecumseh kit. Customer had lost the 4 mounting nut for the air cleaner to carb. Had removed the old metal square fuel pump and disassembled it and lost the nuts hold the parts together. Replaced with E bay fuel pump that was hooked up backwards. Governor springs were disconnected and then stretched out of shape and reconnected to other thinks other than the governor arm and throttle control. Upon reversing everything that the customer did found that the reason may of been a damaged O ring in the carb. Returned to customer

Round two. After customer used the mower to mower his lawn, engine rev's out of control. Customer bends carb linkage to remove it from the governor arm and then twist it 90 degrees and connects it to one of the holes on the rotating throttle control. Found parts of governor gear laying in oil pan. Upon reinstalling engine found that the customer had tightened the starter cable and had twisted the terminal which then broke the brush wire.

Current project is a 2016 Hisun 550 that the customer said was running and backfired, died and the wouldn't restart. After setting at Rural King for 3 months, customer decided to bring it to me. According to customer Rural king replaced the fuel injector due to a injector code, and replaced the coil. It was claimed that they had checked the timing and it was correct. Initial crank at my shop caused a puff out of the intake and then no compression. Timing chain has jumped off of the crankshaft timing sprocket. Due to engine location in the frame may not have enough space to remove the flywheel crankcase cover without removing the engine from the frame. And injector code may or may not be from the jumped timing. So could be a separate issue that depending on cause could still need a diagnosis and repair after tearing down the engine and replacing the timing chain.

 

[StarTech]

For me it is an older Yardman with Briggs V twin that in round one was the engine quit while mowing his lawn Found that customer had removed the carb and lost the fuel valve and has replaced it with one from a tecumseh kit. Customer had lost the 4 mounting nut for the air cleaner to carb. Had removed the old metal square fuel pump and disassembled it and lost the nuts hold the parts together. Replaced with E bay fuel pump that was hooked up backwards. Governor springs were disconnected and then stretched out of shape and reconnected to other thinks other than the governor arm and throttle control. Upon reversing everything that the customer did found that the reason may of been a damaged O ring in the carb. Returned to customer

Round two. After customer used the mower to mower his lawn, engine rev's out of control. Customer bends carb linkage to remove it from the governor arm and then twist it 90 degrees and connects it to one of the holes on the rotating throttle control. Found parts of governor gear laying in oil pan. Upon reinstalling engine found that the customer had tightened the starter cable and had twisted the terminal which then broke the brush wire.

Current project is a 2016 Hisun 550 that the customer said was running and backfired, died and the wouldn't restart. After setting at Rural King for 3 months, customer decided to bring it to me. According to customer Rural king replaced the fuel injector due to a injector code, and replaced the coil. It was claimed that they had checked the timing and it was correct. Initial crank at my shop caused a puff out of the intake and then no compression. Timing chain has jumped off of the crankshaft timing sprocket. Due to engine location in the frame may not have enough space to remove the flywheel crankcase cover without removing the engine from the frame. And injector code may or may not be from the jumped timing. So could be a separate issue that depending on cause could still need a diagnosis and repair after tearing down the engine and replacing the timing chain.

Then it sounds like the Super Z that I got to replace the starter. The engine and relacted components has to come off as the Briggs is a transplant and the starter is most against the RH hydro pump. Absolutely no room to remove the bad starter.