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Okay so lately my mower will start up fine and run and then it won't start..Every time it starts it runs and mows great. My question is this evening I found that on the back of the ignition switch where the harness plugs in to switch the Pinkish/Red wire isn't staying in the slot tightly,meaning it easily slides and pulls right out the backofharness? Could this be a culprit? TIA

That should going the "B" terminal and is the main power to the switch. Yes it needs replacing with a new terminal. Being will cause intermittent power the rest of the mower.

tha can i use existing wire with new terminal or a whole new harness?

cbr7380 said:

tha can i use existing wire with new terminal or a whole new harness?

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Well if believe the OEM then it is whole harness. More money for them.

But i regularly replace the terminals and even the housings. All you is a pair wire cutters, the terminal, and the open barrel crimper. And may a pick to remove the old terminal.

A local mower shop should be able supply you the female Aptiv F56 terminals but some are too stupid to have them.

StarTech said:

Well if believe the OEM then it is whole harness. More money for them.

But i regularly replace the terminals and even the housings. All you is a pair wire cutters, the terminal, and the open barrel crimper. And may a pick to remove the old terminal.
View attachment 65754
A local mower shop should be able supply you the female Aptiv F56 terminals but some are too stupid to have them.

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is there another name they might go by? And is it 12 gauge? Tysm

Delphi and Packard are couple older names.

It should a 16-14 ga wire. Google up using PN 2965867-L.

would this work?

StarTech said:

Delphi and Packard are couple older names.

It should a 16-14 ga wire. Google up using PN 2965867-L.

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or this one?

cbr7380 said:

would this work?

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Nope

cbr7380 said:

or this one?

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And yes.

StarTech said:

And yes.

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so yes on the amazon one?

Yes

And Dorman one you posted is a different connector series but is used in some connectors on some mowers.

StarTech said:

Yes

And Dorman one you posted is a different connector series but is used in some connectors on some mowers.

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thank you sir ordered it from amazon now if i don't screw it up changing it out lol

cbr7380 said:

thank you sir ordered it from amazon now if i don't screw it up changing it out lol

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@StarTech I got my tester light out and the B had no power to it with the key on or off? I even pulled it out of the harness and touched all around the connector and nothing

Then most likely the fuse is blown or the fuse holder is bad but test for voltage at the fuse holder first as the problem might further the road.

there's only one fuse on my mower I believe and it's okay

StarTech said:

Then most likely the fuse is blown or the fuse holder is bad but test for voltage at the fuse holder first as the problem might further the road.

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yeah a fuse by the battery and solenoid its okay

StarTech said:

Then most likely the fuse is blown or the fuse holder is bad but test for voltage at the fuse holder first as the problem might further the road.

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think the wire is bad going into the terminal connector? its kinda kinked due to pushing back up into the harness

hey @StarTech I got those connectors but theyre too big to go far enough up in the harness?

StarTech said:

Yes

And Dorman one you posted is a different connector series but is used in some connectors on some mowers.

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If you have a 5 terminal ignition switch you can use this harness to replace the connector. Doesn't matter how the switch is wired.

cbr7380 said:

hey @StarTech I got those connectors but theyre too big to go far enough up in the harness?

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IF you have either one of these housings then the F56 terminals will fit when properly crimped. Ignore the Red color as they usually come in black. It is just a reclaimed connector housing I got on hand.

StarTech said:

IF you have either one of these housings then the F56 terminals will fit when properly crimped. Ignore the Red color as they usually come in black. It is just a reclaimed connector housing I got on hand.
View attachment 65821

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it looks kinda like the red one but no matter how far I try to push it into the terminal hole it goes in maybe a 1/4 of the way?

StarTech said:

IF you have either one of these housings then the F56 terminals will fit when properly crimped. Ignore the Red color as they usually come in black. It is just a reclaimed connector housing I got on hand.
View attachment 65821

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this is the one I have

Oh shit it the latest style that I have so far not found any replacement terminals for. And it is royal pain to get the terminals out. Still working on it as JD is also using them as I just ran into this style a month ago here and I have not had the down time to do the research yet..

There is some good news however as you can the housing from Rotary under PN 12780 and using those F56 terminals completely rework the switch connector.

Sorry for the mis lead as I didn't know you had latest style. I was thinking you had the more common one.

StarTech said:

Oh shit it the latest style that I have so far not found any replacement terminals for. And it is royal pain to get the terminals out. Still working on it as JD is also using them as I just ran into this style a month ago here and I have not had the down time to do the research yet..

There is some good news however as you can the housing from Rotary under PN 12780 and using those F56 terminals completely rework the switch connector.

Sorry for the mis lead as I didn't know you had latest style. I was thinking you had the more common one.

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would this also work? @StarTech

Yes.

I sure appreciate your help

Just noting those terminals are what appears to be Amp 42281-1 18-14 ga terminals. My distributor only sells them in cut strips of 100 pieces or in a reel of 24000 - 55000 pieces.

So I need to a strip for breaking down into loose terminals for later use here.

StarTech said:

Just noting those terminals are what appears to be Amp 42281-1 18-14 ga terminals. My distributor only sells them in cut strips of 100 pieces or in a reel of 24000 - 55000 pieces.

So I need to a strip for breaking down into loose terminals for later use here.

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and that housing you showed me from rotary will fit into this ignition switch?

StarTech said:

Just noting those terminals are what appears to be Amp 42281-1 18-14 ga terminals. My distributor only sells them in cut strips of 100 pieces or in a reel of 24000 - 55000 pieces.

So I need to a strip for breaking down into loose terminals for later use here.

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also is this the correct terminal for that rotary housing? https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Fema...nsulated+terminal+18-14+gauge,aps,242&sr=1-18

Okay now things are getting a little confusing.

Here is the different terminals.
Amp 179975-1

Amp 42281-1

Aptiv (F56) 2965867-L



Your current housing uses the AMP 42281-1 terminal.

The Rotary housing uses the Aptiv 2965867-L terminal

And the Amp 179975-1 may fit either one but there is one problem. The Amp 179975-1 will lock on the switch terminal tabs and not be locked in either housing. This can be a problem later as the connector housing will come off but terminal will stay lock on the switch tabs.


from the above the last terminal [Amp 179975-1] you link is on the Left. The F56 [Aptiv 2965867-L] is in the Center. The other terminal [Amp 42281-1] is on the Right.
If you look at the center switch tabs you will see a hole. This is what the terminal on the Left is locking into.

Also the reason the new connector housing is such a pain is it has double locking tabs for each terminal.

Here is an example.

Years ago I had the same restart issue with my Toro Timecutter push mower and it turned out to be the coil was bad.

StarTech said:

Just noting those terminals are what appears to be Amp 42281-1 18-14 ga terminals. My distributor only sells them in cut strips of 100 pieces or in a reel of 24000 - 55000 pieces.

So I need to a strip for breaking down into loose terminals for later use here.

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bd323 said:

Years ago I had the same restart issue with my Toro Timecutter push mower and it turned out to be the coil was bad.

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yeah thats what i'm wondering when i tinker with the armature it fires off perfectly then a lil later won't turn the engine over

I would start up and I cut for 15-20 minutes. I stopped to refuel to cut the rear yard and restarting was almost impossible. It was under warranty and the shop found the bad coil.

bd323 said:

I would start up and I cut for 15-20 minutes. I stopped to refuel to cut the rear yard and restarting was almost impossible. It was under warranty and the shop found the bad coil.

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StarTech said:

Also the reason the new connector housing is such a pain is it has double locking tabs for each terminal.

Here is an example.
View attachment 65842

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@StarTech okay I found an old terminal in the garage the correct size. It has about 4-5 inches of wire already attached to it. My question is Could I just strip some of the B wire and use a crimp connector to attach B wire to the wire attached to the terminal I found?

cbr7380 said:

@StarTech okay I found an old terminal in the garage the correct size. It has about 4-5 inches of wire already attached to it. My question is Could I just strip some of the B wire and use a crimp connector to attach B wire to the wire attached to the terminal I found?

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Have you removed the old wire terminal? A crimp should work. But seal it .

johniii said:

Have you removed the old wire terminal? A crimp should work. But seal it .

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yeah that was the issue with the old terminal,it would just come right out of housing with the slightest pressure

okay so @StarTech and @johniii so today I got the new terminal in housing etc and it fired right off several times in a row but then back to the not firin up..I started noticing on the starter that the gear with the teeth is only going all the way up properly every so often and then it starts right up when it does? Is there a powering issue to the starter?

I suspect you have a Briggs Single cylinder engine with an inertia type starter. You probably having a voltage drop problem at the starter. Would suspect the remote starter solenoid of having burned internal contacts.

You can try jumping the two large posts of the remote starter solenoid with a junk screw driver and see if the starter engages every time. If it does then replacing the solenoid may very well fix the problem.

Check back of terminal and make sure the small tap there is bent outwarded, that's what holes the terminal in.

StarTech said:

I suspect you have a Briggs Single cylinder engine with an inertia type starter. You probably having a voltage drop problem at the starter. Would suspect the remote starter solenoid of having burned internal contacts.

You can try jumping the two large posts of the remote starter solenoid with a junk screw driver and see if the starter engages every time. If it does then replacing the solenoid may very well fix the problem.

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okay I tried the screwdriver and still doesn't fire it right off also as a side note I have a solenoid with two red wires (cables) on the positive post and the black ground on the other post

Then one three possible bad main battery positive cables, Bad grounding, or bad starter. I have reread the whole so I don't if you installed a known working starter already or not.

When you jumped those the starter should had went to full speed cranking the engine if the solenoid was bad. So first make sure the battery is staying above 9 vdc while cranking as it take 9+ volts for the starter to work correctly.

You may be able to get that at any auto parts store.