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My father purchased one of the first Honda Harmony 215 mowers when they came out in the early 90's. He's used this lawnmower extensively over the years and gave it to me a few years ago when the transmission failed in the self propel. That wasn't a problem with me because my 1/2 acre yard is largely flat and being a runner, pushing a mower around is no problem.

Well, I am of the thought that he may have cronically been under-filling the oil in the lawnmower throughout it's entire life by checking the oil with the dipstick cap fully screwed in. Power has always been a bit meh with this mower...just didn't really go through tall grass as good as I thought a 5hp mower should. This past season, the lawnmower really started to consume oil and smoke. When I properly filled up the oil, I noticed that there would be oil smoke out the air intake from the breather assembly, and out the exhaust too, and I noticed oil blowing back out the breather, and collecting underneath the air cleaner assembly, making a huge nasty mess....something was definitely amiss.

now that mowing season is over with for a few months, I've decided to inspect the mower. Compression was good when tested, but when I pulled the head, I found some scoring of the cylinder wall. When I run my finger over it, I can barely feel it, but it is very noticable visually...it's obviously going to need new rings. Is this block salvagable though? Can this be honed out? Are larger bore rings avalabile for the GXV 140? I don't want to scrap this mower...this is a great machine that would cost a lot of money to replace, and it's got the good GXV140 engine on it. This is a rebuild job I think I can do, and I've looked up parts and they are actually rather reasonable. I've serviced many Briggs engines before, but If this was a Briggs & stratton engine in this condition, I'd probably scrap it, as they are easy and cheap to come by, but I think I can bring this thing back to life. (BTW, I'm not interested in repairing the self-propel transmission, but definitely want to get this thing mowing back to the way it was new if I can!)

Got the engine completely apart tonight. Looks like I'm in for a new piston, connecting rod, and possibly a crank. Found a block on E-bay for $40, so I may go that route if I cannot get this block honed down.

av-geek said:

Got the engine completely apart tonight. Looks like I'm in for a new piston, connecting rod, and possibly a crank. Found a block on E-bay for $40, so I may go that route if I cannot get this block honed down. View attachment 42163View attachment 42164View attachment 42165View attachment 42166

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The piston looks bad. I agree with that....... I think some carbon let loose and caused that.... The cylinder looks way better than the piston does....

Can you feel a lip from the inside of the bore to the very top of the bore ???? If you do then the cylinder might be worn and a 20 thou bore might be in order if you wan't to bring it back up to speed....... You can have the bore checked with micrometer and find out out for sure.......

I like those older Honda engines. They hold up well ............

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

The piston looks bad. I agree with that....... I think some carbon let loose and caused that.... The cylinder looks way better than the piston does....

Can you feel a lip from the inside of the bore to the very top of the bore ???? If you do then the cylinder might be worn and a 20 thou bore might be in order if you wan't to bring it back up to speed....... You can have the bore checked with micrometer and find out out for sure.......

I like those older Honda engines. They hold up well ............

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!

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There doesn't seem to be a lip there at all. I was, in fact able to easily bring the piston out the top of the bore after I unbolted the connecting rod. Going to dig out the micrometer tonight. Noticed there are .25, .5, and .75 mm pistons avaliable for this engine, so as soon as I can finish getting the block stripped, may see what a machine shop can do for me.

I'm noticing some pretty insane prices for the crankshaft out there...from around $145 $175. If I've got to replace that with a brand new one, that may be the lynchpin in the job. Anyone have any good luck with the non-honda ones out there? Could this one be saved somehow?

Your looking at $250 just in new parts (rod, piston, rings, crank, etc):

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...a-vin-gjab-6000001-to-gjab-7999999/crankshaft

A short block, new or used, or new engine altogether would be the way to go..


I'd be looking for a used engine on-line or at any local dealers (where the carb may be gummed up and not repaired)

BTW, that drive unit, you cannot by parts for it, just the entire unit, a bit over $100.....Been there..

I see a small square in the bore.
If that is real & not your window reflection then the bore is deceased.
Looks like a piece of the plating has come adrift which is not repairable

I was given a Snapper with a GXV160 on it that isnt running. The only thing Ive had time to check is the carb which is super clogged up. May be the only thing wrong with it. So question is what state you live in to see if it might be worth while to make a deal. I live in Augusta Ga. Tomorrow I will try to make time to clean carb and see if it will run.

dfbroxy said:

I was given a Snapper with a GXV160 on it that isnt running. The only thing Ive had time to check is the carb which is super clogged up. May be the only thing wrong with it. So question is what state you live in to see if it might be worth while to make a deal. I live in Augusta Ga. Tomorrow I will try to make time to clean carb and see if it will run.

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Don't forget the idle port jet and clean that well .................

dfbroxy said:

I was given a Snapper with a GXV160 on it that isnt running. The only thing Ive had time to check is the carb which is super clogged up. May be the only thing wrong with it. So question is what state you live in to see if it might be worth while to make a deal. I live in Augusta Ga. Tomorrow I will try to make time to clean carb and see if it will run.

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I'm up in Virginia. I've found a like-new crankshaft for the engine, and am going to see what my cousin, who works at a machine shop can do with the block for me. So far, I think I may be able to do this maybe in a little over 100 bills since I was able to get a crank cheaply.

I'd bought this one and save lots of work
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Ho...=item442fa32bec:g:sdUAAOSw5YlcDGZb:rk:18:pf:0