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Headlights quit working, craftsman 917 series

#1

J

Jessa

I have a craftsman 17.5 HP lawn tractor (917 series). I had to replace my starter solenoid at one point. It was a long time following this, I noticed my headlights had quit working. You can turn the switch on and off while the mower is running and no lights. But what is odd, when you shut the ignition switch off and the engine is powering down, the headlamps turn on and fade to off as the engine quits - but the headlights have to be in the on position for this to happen. I have a light tester and the lights are both grounded. Both lights work as the mower powers off. So I can assume the wiring is intact - no shorts.

As stated, I replaced the solenoid switch but it was a long time after this that I noticed the issue with the lights. Not sure if they were related. I assumed maybe it was the ignition switch, so I replaced it as well.

There are four wires going into the solenoid. The main two positive up top that come in and out and relay to the starter. On the bottom, there is a single white wire with a female connector going into one male terminal on the solenoid. On the second male terminal of the solenoid are two black wires. I can make mistakes but I should have put this in correctly. I also noticed this morning there is a white male wire (not connected to anything) that is within distance of connecting to the white female that goes into the solenoid.

My first thought is I have some "wires crossed" so I have tried various combos of plugging and unplugging and connecting these 3 wires: the white male, white female and the two connected black females. But the mower will not crank unless they are installed in the manner mentioned above going into the solenoid. According to the wiring diagram only a white wire should be connected to the solenoid on the bottom.

I thought maybe it was a faulty headlight switch. I can bypass the switch and the same thing. I have had this mower about 7 years and I can't remember if it has always been this way but the headlight switch has to be on just to crank the mower. And last, I've noticed when the headlight switch is off and I shut the mower down, there is a delay of about 1 to 2 seconds before the engine starts to power down. It basically continues to run normal but with a delay. With the headlight switch on, when you turn the key off, the engine powers down instantly and again, the headlights come on and fade to off as the engine powers down.

Help - I like to have everything of mine work correctly.


#2

wjjones

wjjones

Jessa said:
I have a craftsman 17.5 HP lawn tractor (917 series). I had to replace my starter solenoid at one point. It was a long time following this, I noticed my headlights had quit working. You can turn the switch on and off while the mower is running and no lights. But what is odd, when you shut the ignition switch off and the engine is powering down, the headlamps turn on and fade to off as the engine quits - but the headlights have to be in the on position for this to happen. I have a light tester and the lights are both grounded. Both lights work as the mower powers off. So I can assume the wiring is intact - no shorts.

As stated, I replaced the solenoid switch but it was a long time after this that I noticed the issue with the lights. Not sure if they were related. I assumed maybe it was the ignition switch, so I replaced it as well.

There are four wires going into the solenoid. The main two positive up top that come in and out and relay to the starter. On the bottom, there is a single white wire with a female connector going into one male terminal on the solenoid. On the second male terminal of the solenoid are two black wires. I can make mistakes but I should have put this in correctly. I also noticed this morning there is a white male wire (not connected to anything) that is within distance of connecting to the white female that goes into the solenoid.

My first thought is I have some "wires crossed" so I have tried various combos of plugging and unplugging and connecting these 3 wires: the white male, white female and the two connected black females. But the mower will not crank unless they are installed in the manner mentioned above going into the solenoid. According to the wiring diagram only a white wire should be connected to the solenoid on the bottom.

I thought maybe it was a faulty headlight switch. I can bypass the switch and the same thing. I have had this mower about 7 years and I can't remember if it has always been this way but the headlight switch has to be on just to crank the mower. And last, I've noticed when the headlight switch is off and I shut the mower down, there is a delay of about 1 to 2 seconds before the engine starts to power down. It basically continues to run normal but with a delay. With the headlight switch on, when you turn the key off, the engine powers down instantly and again, the headlights come on and fade to off as the engine powers down.

Help - I like to have everything of mine work correctly.
Click to expand...



If its like some the lights will only burn bright when the engine is at top running speed.


#3

J

Jessa

Thanks for the reply. You are correct, the engine RPMs have to be up for the lights to be visible. However, there is zero illumination. They are completely out while it is running.

I've used the lights in the past but it is a rarity. Prior to the time change, I had to cut one evening with the flood lights on. So I thought I would get them fixed in case I need them again at some point.


#4

Fish

Fish

Put up the full 917. model number so we can look at the wiring schematic.


#5

R

Rivets

I suspect you may have a problem with the switch. The lighting circuit and the starting circuit are totally separate and the only place they come together is in the switch. You should not have to turn the lights on to start the engine. Has anyone worked on the units electrical system, other than replacing the solenoid?


#6

J

Jessa

This is the diagram from the sears parts direct website. It matches my printed manual except the wires on the attachment are labeled by color which makes it easier. However, the colors of the wires passing through the light switch (the rocker switch) according to this diagram should be orange and brown. Mine are actually orange and black. Because one is black, it has made it more difficult for me to trace. I'd hate to start cutting up all of the harness housing just to trace this wire.

But I will if I have too.

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#7

J

Jessa

I also want to add, at one time I had to replace the switch that prevents the mower from starting if the blades are engaged. I would assume this would be the attachment clutch on the diagram.

I believe in order for this mower to start the pedal/clutch has to be pressed, the mower cannot be in reverse and the blades cannot be engaged. For mine, throw in the headlamp switch has to be on.


#8

R

Rivets

I'll bet you did not get the correct switch, but one where the lights and PTO terminals are reversed. There are so many switches out there that it is very common for people to get the wrong one, if the parts guy does not ask a lot of questions.


#9

Fish

Fish

Look at the wire plugged into the G terminal on your keyswitch, and follow it to where it is grounded to the frame, make sure it is a good connection. Just for test purposes, unplug the ground terminals off of your headlights, then start up and do the same things, see what is different, I think your problem just may involve grounding.


#10

R

Rivets

No need to cut into the harness just yet. First, unplug the switch and compare it to the one in the wiring diagram. Second, follow your wiring diagram and make sure that the A1, A2, and the L terminals are wired to the proper components.


#11

J

Jessa

I will follow all of the advice given so far. I did suspect the solenoid was not correct because it was slightly different. I just can't remember how, exactly. One difference, the old one was mounted by two bolts and the replacement only had one bolt but with a hook to hold in place in the second hole. This should not matter but I do recall asking about it. The terminal connections may have been the same though.

I will check the ground coming off the ignition directly to the lights and trace the A1 and A2 lines.

Thanks for everyone's input but it may be tomorrow or later before I get a chance to look into it again.


#12

R

Rivets

The new solenoid you installed should work fine in your unit.


#13

wjjones

wjjones

Rivets said:
I'll bet you did not get the correct switch, but one where the lights and PTO terminals are reversed. There are so many switches out there that it is very common for people to get the wrong one, if the parts guy does not ask a lot of questions.
Click to expand...



Yep to many different switches.


#14

J

Jessa

wjjones said:
Yep to many different switches.
Click to expand...


I just wanted to end this thread by adding the solution. I added another ground wire connection to the original ground wire of my harness near the location where the wire exited the light bulbs. I simply cut and soldered an additional wire, covered the connection with shrink wrap and mounted the other end under a bolt on the frame with the proper fitting on the end. Headlights now work fine.

I meant to add this note months ago, but I had to replace one of the other switches again and it reminded me of this. This mower mechanically has been great. On the electrical end, it has not been good. I have had to replace the brake switch which prevents it from starting once and the switch that prevents the mower from cranking if the blade is engaged twice. And I have had to replace the switch under the seat once as well. This is in addition to the ignition and solenoid which may have not been necessary.

Thanks for everyone's help.


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