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I'm having issues with starting my portable generator. It pulls easy with no sparkplug.
I removed the valve cover and clean carbon buildup out. I removed and cleaned the carburetor. The spark plug is gapped correctly and so is the (I think it's called) magneto on the flywheel. The flywheel key, which is a half circle key, was slightly out of position. I removed it and put it back correctly and I'm still having issues.
If I slowly pull the pull cord a few times, it will pull start it. does anybody have any ideas? I live off grid and this is my source of electricity. I appreciate any help.

If the key is out of position any then it sheared. And will throw the ignition timing off.

Describe "out of position"
Is it a Briggs engine? Are valves adjusted properly?
What are the engine numbers?

Hammermechanicman said:

Describe "out of position"
Is it a Briggs engine? Are valves adjusted properly?
What are the engine numbers?

Click to expand...

Scrubcadet10 said:

If the key is out of position any then it sheared. And will throw the ignition timing off.

Click to expand...

So, I probably need to open it up and adjustment the timing. Ugh. I assumed shearing the key meant to actually break the key.
Buy out of position, it was slightly forward from it's normal position in the slot, on the drive shaft. It wasn't broken or bent.
It's not a B&S. I hope that's okay. It's a Duro Max 5500 e dual fuel.

Daniel 3721 said:

So, I probably need to open it up and adjustment the timing. Ugh. I assumed shearing the key meant to actually break the key.
Buy out of position, it was slightly forward from it's normal position in the slot, on the drive shaft. It wasn't broken or bent.
It's not a B&S. I hope that's okay. It's a Duro Max 5500 e dual fuel.

Click to expand...

No, you just need a new key. the key is what holds the flywheel in time with the crankshaft.

Thanks, too late I already opened it up the timing was off. Probably because of the key slipping I appreciate everyone's time

oh wow. that's got to be a pretty hard stop for the gears to jump time. Unless someone opened it up for some reason prior to you.

Torque the flywheel back down to factory specs.

Also clean the taper on the crankshaft and the inside taper on the flywheel.
If it's has any lube it will shear again. The key is only for timing, it's not to hold the flywheel from slipping. Also properly torque the flywheel nut.

Some people like top lube the crank and flywheel so it removes easier next time. this is not a good thing. It needs to be a dry friction fit.

shadetree#1 said:

Also clean the taper on the crankshaft and the inside taper on the flywheel.
If it's has any lube it will shear again. The key is only for timing, it's not to hold the flywheel from slipping. Also properly torque the flywheel nut.

Some people like top lube the crank and flywheel so it removes easier next time. this is not a good thing. It needs to be a dry friction fit.

Click to expand...

That's a great tip!I appreciate it. I'm still waiting for the gasket kit. I'm going to replace all the gaskets while I have it torn apart.

Is there a standard torque spec for the fly wheel nut?
I'm being ignored by Duro Max customer service. I can't find any torque specs on line or in the owners manuel

Scrubcadet10 said:

oh wow. that's got to be a pretty hard stop for the gears to jump time. Unless someone opened it up for some reason prior to you.

Click to expand...

I'm not sure what the previous owner did to it. It was clean when I bought it but soon started leaking oil. I treated it like it was brand new, breaking it in according to the owners manual. Also checking the oil before every start. In other words, I don't think it was anything I did or didn't do.

You will need to replace the ALUMINUM flywheel key. You say the old one WAS OUT OF PLACE. Do you mean it was partly sheared?
You say that after you relocated the out of place key you could at times pull though and start the engine if you pulled it through slowly. This is not a sign that the timing is off internally inside the engine. Usually the timing cannot change internally unless gears break.
What did you see inside that made you think it jumped time inside?

You will also need to carefully adjust the valve lash to minimum specs, especially the intake valve. (most ACR's are on the intake valve and if the valve lash is out of spec or too much clearance the engine will be hard to pull through the compression stroke. Usually the valve lash is set at 1/4 inch past TDC. (or 1/4 inch ATDC (After Top Dead Center of the piston) Most generally the valve lash is .003-.005 cold.

Is that rig electric start?
Reason I ask is I've seen hard to rope pull start engines that would start up ok using electric start.

I really suspect from your description that the unit just needed a new flywheel key and the valve lash adjusted to minimum specs. Valve lash is easily adjusted on a OHV. See youtube for such.

You can find torque specs on-line. (go by the size of the crankshaft nut.
(stud size of the crankshaft)
Most generally 55-60 foot lbs for up to a 25 hp small engine.
Do not use a impact wrench for the tightening torque.

shadetree#1 said:

You will need to replace the ALUMINUM flywheel key. You say the old one WAS OUT OF PLACE. Do you mean it was partly sheared?
You say that after you relocated the out of place key you could at times pull though and start the engine if you pulled it through slowly. This is not a sign that the timing is off internally inside the engine. Usually the timing cannot change internally unless gears break.
What did you see inside that made you think it jumped time inside?

You will also need to carefully adjust the valve lash to minimum specs, especially the intake valve. (most ACR's are on the intake valve and if the valve lash is out of spec or too much clearance the engine will be hard to pull through the compression stroke. Usually the valve lash is set at 1/4 inch past TDC. (or 1/4 inch ATDC (After Top Dead Center of the piston) Most generally the valve lash is .003-.005 cold.

Is that rig electric start?
Reason I ask is I've seen hard to rope pull start engines that would start up ok using electric start.

I really suspect from your description that the unit just needed a new flywheel key and the valve lash adjusted to minimum specs. Valve lash is easily adjusted on a OHV. See youtube for such.

You can find torque specs on-line. (go by the size of the crankshaft nut.
(stud size of the crankshaft)
Most generally 55-60 foot lbs for up to a 25 hp small engine.
Do not use a impact wrench for the tightening torq

Click to expand...

shadetree#1 said:

You will need to replace the ALUMINUM flywheel key. You say the old one WAS OUT OF PLACE. Do you mean it was partly sheared?
You say that after you relocated the out of place key you could at times pull though and start the engine if you pulled it through slowly. This is not a sign that the timing is off internally inside the engine. Usually the timing cannot change internally unless gears break.
What did you see inside that made you think it jumped time inside?

You will also need to carefully adjust the valve lash to minimum specs, especially the intake valve. (most ACR's are on the intake valve and if the valve lash is out of spec or too much clearance the engine will be hard to pull through the compression stroke. Usually the valve lash is set at 1/4 inch past TDC. (or 1/4 inch ATDC (After Top Dead Center of the piston) Most generally the valve lash is .003-.005 cold.

Is that rig electric start?
Reason I ask is I've seen hard to rope pull start engines that would start up ok using electric start.

I really suspect from your description that the unit just needed a new flywheel key and the valve lash adjusted to minimum specs. Valve lash is easily adjusted on a OHV. See youtube for such.

You can find torque specs on-line. (go by the size of the crankshaft nut.
(stud size of the crankshaft)
Most generally 55-60 foot lbs for up to a 25 hp small engine.
Do not use a impact wrench for the tightening torque.

Click to expand...

I was able to pull the cord a couple of inches at a time. After doing this three or four times, I was then able to get one full pull, without the cord snapping back, which would start the engine. Also, with the spark plug removed, the cord pulled freely.
Inside, the alignment points were 1 cog off. I'm not sure what the definition of shear is in this context. The key wasn't broken or bent chipped or damaged in any way. However it was shifted 1/4 of its length forward in the slot. By forward I mean from its normal, fully seated position. Putting the key back in place didn't change anything. I was able to do what I described above before and after adjusting the key.
Yes it has electric start but I lost the key and therefore I'm pull starting it.
And I am not familiar with the acronym ACR please elaborate

Automatic
Compression
Relief/Release.

One cog off.
Usually a engine will not even run one tooth off and especially come up to speed and carry a load and especially being a generator engine. Make sure you get the cogs right before buttoning it up.
The reason I asked about electric start is some of them emergency gens, especially 10 hp and up are really hard to rope crank in cold weather. (and requires a good battery, sometimes a small lawn tractor battery in cold weather will not crank them and being off grid to keep a battery charged may require jump starting from a vec battery.
You might want to consider taking the key switch to a locksmith and get a key made so as to have easier electric start cold weather cranking since you are off the grid.
UP/down flywheel key won't change timing. I thought you were indicating the key was partly sheared sideways which happens sometimes.
Strange that it is one cog off from the FACTORY.

You can review the operation of the ACR on-line. ACR when correct releases some compression for easier starting and not hanging on compression stroke like you describe. Automatic ACR is critical of correct valve adjustment, especially on a OHV engine. The ACR is usually built into the cam and slightly opens USUALLY the intake valve JUST BEFORE the piston is at TDC. (but can be on the exhaust valve)
Do you know if your engine is a Honda, Briggs or what make????
If you see any engine model, code, etc, post them. We can then get give you more logical precise repair/troubleshooting info instead of just ball park help. The gen model you listed did not help me to get engine info.

Daniel 3721 said:

I'm having issues with starting my portable generator. It pulls easy with no sparkplug.
I removed the valve cover and clean carbon buildup out. I removed and cleaned the carburetor. The spark plug is gapped correctly and so is the (I think it's called) magneto on the flywheel. The flywheel key, which is a half circle key, was slightly out of position. I removed it and put it back correctly and I'm still having issues.
If I slowly pull the pull cord a few times, it will pull start it. does anybody have any ideas? I live off grid and this is my source of electricity. I appreciate any help.

Click to expand...

Update
I'm still waiting for the gasket kit.
Someone asked for the model number. On the block is stamped;DHLG225. Then under that, between two stars is, 17100702508. Duro Max xp5500eh dual fuel generator.

Hammermechanicman said:

Describe "out of position"
Is it a Briggs engine? Are valves adjusted properly?
What are the engine numbers?

Click to expand...

Engine numbers
DHLG225
*17100702509*

DHLG225 by CHONGQING DAJIANG POWER EQUIPMENT CO., LTD

Most likely you will not find any service info on the engine. About all you can do is go by a standard screw torque chart and figure which screw sizes you have.

shadetree#1 said:

One cog off.
Usually a engine will not even run one tooth off and especially come up to speed and carry a load and especially being a generator engine. Make sure you get the cogs right before buttoning it up.
The reason I asked about electric start is some of them emergency gens, especially 10 hp and up are really hard to rope crank in cold weather. (and requires a good battery, sometimes a small lawn tractor battery in cold weather will not crank them and being off grid to keep a battery charged may require jump starting from a vec battery.
You might want to consider taking the key switch to a locksmith and get a key made so as to have easier electric start cold weather cranking since you are off the grid.
UP/down flywheel key won't change timing. I thought you were indicating the key was partly sheared sideways which happens sometimes.
Strange that it is one cog off from the FACTORY.

You can review the operation of the ACR on-line. ACR when correct releases some compression for easier starting and not hanging on compression stroke like you describe. Automatic ACR is critical of correct valve adjustment, especially on a OHV engine. The ACR is usually built into the cam and slightly opens USUALLY the intake valve JUST BEFORE the piston is at TDC. (but can be on the exhaust valve)
Do you know if your engine is a Honda, Briggs or what make????
If you see any engine model, code, etc, post them. We can then get give you more logical precise repair/troubleshooting info instead of just ball park help. The gen model you listed did not help me to get engine info.

Click to expand...

StarTech said:

DHLG225 by CHONGQING DAJIANG POWER EQUIPMENT CO., LTD

Most likely you will not find any service info on the engine. About all you can do is go by a standard screw torque chart and figure which screw sizes you have.

Click to expand...

All right, thank you for the information. I couldn't find anything on this engine. And duromax claims to be made in America, what a laugh.
So, what I gather you're saying is, find a torque chart and then match the bolt or screw size that I am torquing to the corresponding bolt/ specs on the chart.
Thank you for the tip much appreciated

The new gasket kit arrived yesterday, but it was late. it's been too cold to go out this morning. I appreciate all the advice and tips from everyone. Your input has really helped.
I'm open to any advice before installing the gasket kit, thanks again

Some of them China engines are a Honda clone like for example the ones labeled Predator by H Freight. If you get hung try looking at the Honda Service data.

shadetree#1 said:

Some of them China engines are a Honda clone like for example the ones labeled Predator by H Freight. If you get hung try looking at the Honda Service data.

Click to expand...

Good to know, thanks

Hey everyone, I am still not able to start my generator, by hand or electric start.
I put new gaskets in, adjusted the valves, re-gapped the spark plug, cleaned the carburetor jets and put a new shaft key in.
The problem still remains. It's extremely hard to turn over, unless I remove the spark plug.
When I do get a good pull, it sputters like it's not getting fuel. If I adjust the choke while it's sputtering, it dies. If I do nothing, it dies after 2-3 seconds.
Any ideas? Thanks.

Scrubcadet said automatic compression relief/release is bad.

Appears you have lost some ground. (it would at least run before you did the new gaskets, but was hard to rope pull)

I noticed you said it was one cog off in a previous post but would run ok, just hard to rope pull.

Usually a engine will not start or run one cog off if you are talking about the cam/crankshaft alignment marks.
Did you change the one cog off alignment?

Next I would think about getting the engine to where it will electric crank.
You say you do not have a key for the switch. Most generally on a gen You can hot wire for a test run or install another switch or even try a lawn tractor key.
The reason I say to get an electric crank is I've seen engines that would electric crank start good but hard to rope pull. (and takes a 12v battery usually rated to at least 275CCA during cold weather. A larger automotive 12v battery is even better.

Next: What specs are you using to adjust the valves?

I'll check the auto rel

bogdaN said:

Scrubcadet said automatic compression relief/release is bad.

Click to expand...

I'll check that today. I totally forgot about that, thanks !

I was wrong about it being 1 cog off. I have issues bending forward, so I wasn't eye level.
I've got the OEM battery charged now and will try that.
First, I finally got the valve clearance from Duromax.
.006 intake
.008 exhaust
Since I didn't have the exact specs before, I took the average of a few Honda clones online. I'll be dialing those in today.

shadetree#1 said:

Appears you have lost some ground. (it would at least run before you did the new gaskets, but was hard to rope pull)

I noticed you said it was one cog off in a previous post but would run ok, just hard to rope pull.

Usually a engine will not start or run one cog off if you are talking about the cam/crankshaft alignment marks.
Did you change the one cog off alignment?

Next I would think about getting the engine to where it will electric crank.
You say you do not have a key for the switch. Most generally on a gen You can hot wire for a test run or install another switch or even try a lawn tractor key.
The reason I say to get an electric crank is I've seen engines that would electric crank start good but hard to rope pull. (and takes a 12v battery usually rated to at least 275CCA during cold weather. A larger automotive 12v battery is even better.

Next: What specs are you using to adjust the valves?

Click to expand...

And I made a key for the ignition. It's not pretty, but it works!

I got the generator started! I did check the compression relief valve when I had the engine apart, I just forgot about it. That was fine.
It runs kind of rough. I'm not sure if I have the springs on correctly for the carburetor, as I continually have to adjust the governor arm to keep it running.
I did start it with the battery. However I had to hand rotate the flywheel past top dead center for it to start. And it also has a hard kick that shakes the whole generator when it dies out. And I think that is the top dead center compression.

Just a hint:
To do a quick test to see if reducing the valve lash will do any good so as to get a compression relief I first measure the valve lash, for example if I know the ACR is on the intake valve on a single cylinder OHV engine I FIRST MEASURE THE VALVE lash with a feeler gauge and if the lash is over specs I just add additional gauges under the rocker to bring the lash to min spec and test the crank and if it still hangs I take the lash little at a time to below specs and sometimes just .002 or so below specs will get a good crank. For example yours is .006 now, try using a .002 gauge under the rocker so as to take the lash to .004 and test crank. On some engines you can feel the difference in compression release manually turning the crank to get an idea if you are getting
This is more user friendly and quick instead of constantly adjusting the lash and testing.
AND sometimes YOU WILL FIND when you first adjust the lash to specs it will crank/run ok for couple of days and the lash will loosen up and be out of specs when checked again and need reset again.??????????

Sometimes just .001-002 will make big difference in compression lock on some engines.

On electric crank engines, especially generators if you take valve lash to below specs and it still won't crank good check your electrical and starter and battery CCA capacity.

edited typo above

Honda and Honda clone engines such as the Predator engines might have the compression release on the cam shaft exhaust valve. (instead of on the intake valve)
It's quite common for the ACR to fail which will usually require replacing the camshaft.
On some engine such as the Briggs Intek single cylinder OHV the ACR is on the intake valve and when the intake valve lash is set to .003 at 1/4 inch ATDC and the engine rotated slowly the rocker arm can be seen to do a slight dip just before TDC indicating that the ACR on the camshaft is operating.

You might watch for this slight dip on either valve on your engine (especially the exhaust valve) and take the ex valve lash to minimum and see if you get a ACR.(Automatic Compression Release)
I do realize that it being a generator that the complete gen has to be removed to access the sump/engine internals.

Here is a link to some info about the ACR on Predator engines:

Let us know what you see/find?

shadetree#1 said:

Honda and Honda clone engines such as the Predator engines might have the compression release on the cam shaft exhaust valve. (instead of on the intake valve)
It's quite common for the ACR to fail which will usually require replacing the camshaft.
On some engine such as the Briggs Intek single cylinder OHV the ACR is on the intake valve and when the intake valve lash is set to .003 at 1/4 inch ATDC and the engine rotated slowly the rocker arm can be seen to do a slight dip just before TDC indicating that the ACR on the camshaft is operating.

You might watch for this slight dip on either valve on your engine (especially the exhaust valve) and take the ex valve lash to minimum and see if you get a ACR.(Automatic Compression Release)
I do realize that it being a generator that the complete gen has to be removed to access the sump/engine internals.

Here is a link to some info about the ACR on Predator engines:

Predator valve adjustment help

I know not many people run predators yet but we do at our track. It was low on compression when cold so we adjusted the valves to factory which is 5 and 7 thousandths(int/exh). Not sure if this is supposed to be a cold or hot adjustment. The manual didnt specify. What do you guys set them to if...

4cycle.com

Let us know what you see/find?

Click to expand...

I first want to apologize for not responding sooner. It's been overcast with snow and my only means of charging is a small solar panel with two 5 volt outputs. I could use my vehicle but the gas is expensive to just charge a phone.
There were so many different "opinions", it's difficult to pick the "right one".
I've read different threads where they say to go 10° past top dead center for this issue. I don't think I want to get into how to determine what 10° past TDC is on my engine.
I remember the release mechanism on the cam shaft, was intact and had free movement. I'm assuming that means it's working.
I'm going to open the valve cover, hand turn the engine and the proper direction, until the intake valve opens and closes, the slight dip, as you put it.

shadetree#1 said:

Honda and Honda clone engines such as the Predator engines might have the compression release on the cam shaft exhaust valve. (instead of on the intake valve)
It's quite common for the ACR to fail which will usually require replacing the camshaft.
On some engine such as the Briggs Intek single cylinder OHV the ACR is on the intake valve and when the intake valve lash is set to .003 at 1/4 inch ATDC and the engine rotated slowly the rocker arm can be seen to do a slight dip just before TDC indicating that the ACR on the camshaft is operating.

You might watch for this slight dip on either valve on your engine (especially the exhaust valve) and take the ex valve lash to minimum and see if you get a ACR.(Automatic Compression Release)
I do realize that it being a generator that the complete gen has to be removed to access the sump/engine internals.

Here is a link to some info about the ACR on Predator engines:

Predator valve adjustment help

I know not many people run predators yet but we do at our track. It was low on compression when cold so we adjusted the valves to factory which is 5 and 7 thousandths(int/exh). Not sure if this is supposed to be a cold or hot adjustment. The manual didnt specify. What do you guys set them to if...

4cycle.com

Let us know what you see/find?

Click to expand...

Watch both valves.
I seen where Honda and Predator engines also have the compression release on the exhaust valve.
Watch for the dip on the exhaust valve.

Appears you have a carb problem also or the carb springs in wrong.
If you can get it running smooth using the electric start just go with it until weather gets warmer.

Summary:
I would try to get the carb/engine running smooth for now and not be concerned about compression lock because you say you can back it up and get a run at a start electrically. Valves being a little bit off won't affect the smooth run once it's started.

Make sure that the carb is not leaking fuel into the intake and Hydro locking the engine. (Gas on top of piston causing the lockup and NOT ACR failure)

shadetree#1 said:

Watch both valves.
I seen where Honda and Predator engines also have the compression release on the exhaust valve.
Watch for the dip on the exhaust valve.

Appears you have a carb problem also or the carb springs in wrong.
If you can get it running smooth using the electric start just go with it until weather gets warmer.

Summary:
I would try to get the carb/engine running smooth for now and not be concerned about compression lock because you say you can back it up and get a run at a start electrically. Valves being a little bit off won't affect the smooth run once it's started.

Make sure that the carb is not leaking fuel into the intake and Hydro locking the engine. (Gas on top of piston causing the lockup and NOT ACR failure)

Click to expand...

The intake valve
was off by 0.003, reading 0.009.
I reset it to 0.004, and the exhaust to 0.006, reducing the clearance by 0.002 for each. I think that is what you recommended.
I won't start it until you confirm.
The carburetor doesn't visibly leak.
When I took the valve cover off, there was gas on the gasket face, as if fuel was pushing past. Not sure why.
After I hear back from you, I'll crank it over, then pull the spark plug and see if there's gas on the piston head.
This could be my imagination, but turning the flywheel/engine by hand, feels easier to go past TDC, by about 25%.
I really appreciate your time and any other advice.
thank you

Do this but be careful and have the rig outside.
Disable the ignition so as to not get a spark. (gas may spew out the spark plug hole is why the ignition is being disabled)
Check the condition of the oil for gas contamination and also if the oil level is indicating high it may have gas in the oil.
Pull the spark plug and rope crank the engine to see if gas spews out.
If it does spew gas or you detect oil/gas contamination your carb needle/seat is leaking and you failed to turn OFF the petcock on the bottom of the gas tank.
On emergency gen's ALWAYS turn off the petcock when the gen is not being used.

Next after gas contamination is taken care of:
Re-install the spark plug leave the ignition disabled and the gas petcock off and slowly pull the rope and feel for compression comparison of before you adjusted the valves.
Next: enable ignition, turn on gas petcock and compare rope pull. Is it the same or harder to pull through? (this is checking ignition timing BTDC)
Did you see a slight dip on the EX or Intake valve as you slowly rotated the engine towards TDC?

You say you DEPEND on this gen for off the grid electric.
You need to eventually keep and eye and ear open for a better more reliable generator and if cold weather, get electric start and possibly even dual fuel type engine.
Trying to depend on a China made emergency generator is never a good thing, but you already know this.

shadetree#1 said:

Do this but be careful and have the rig outside.
Disable the ignition so as to not get a spark. (gas may spew out the spark plug hole is why the ignition is being disabled)
Check the condition of the oil for gas contamination and also if the oil level is indicating high it may have gas in the oil.
Pull the spark plug and rope crank the engine to see if gas spews out.
If it does spew gas or you detect oil/gas contamination your carb needle/seat is leaking and you failed to turn OFF the petcock on the bottom of the gas tank.
On emergency gen's ALWAYS turn off the petcock when the gen is not being used.

Next after gas contamination is taken care of:
Re-install the spark plug leave the ignition disabled and the gas petcock off and slowly pull the rope and feel for compression comparison of before you adjusted the valves.
Next: enable ignition, turn on gas petcock and compare rope pull. Is it the same or harder to pull through? (this is checking ignition timing BTDC)
Did you see a slight dip on the EX or Intake valve as you slowly rotated the engine towards TDC?

You say you DEPEND on this gen for off the grid electric.
You need to eventually keep and eye and ear open for a better more reliable generator and if cold weather, get electric start and possibly even dual fuel type engine.
Trying to depend on a China made emergency generator is never a good thing, but you already know this.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the good advice. I will check for gas coming out the spark plug this afternoon.
I didn't notice any dip on either the exhaust or intake. Two things happened at top dead center.
The first time the Piston came to TDC, both rockers had no movement or play. As I kept pulling the rope and it came to top dead center the next time, is when both had play and that's where I adjusted them.
I do have electric start and it is a dual fuel generator. I did surface research before I bought it and saw that it was assembled in the USA. I didn't do my due diligence and check to see where the engine was manufactured. I do have a friend with an older generator I'm not sure the engine type but it's only gasoline. I know it needs a new carburetor as I've looked at it before. I might pick it up anyway for a hundred bucks it's not bad.

It started and ran fine. I may have gotten a wire crossed because it wouldn't shut off when I turned the key to the off position. So I had to shut it off with the choke. Later, when I went to charge things up, it wouldn't start. I had the same issue I did in the beginning; I couldn't pull past top dead center and the rope snapped back! (Wouldn't start electrically)

I haven't looked at it yet, as I am fully frustrated with the situation.
Any suggestions?
Thanks

Is this a type?
You typed "When you went to CHARGE things up it would not start"

??????????? What did you charge? Battery or ????

Next: If you are not seeing a slight dip on a rocker arm as the piston is almost at TDC as it's COMING UP ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE with the valves set at minimum specs (properly adjusted at 1/4 inch past TDC)
the ACR on the camshaft is not operating properly.

You say that you do not ever see a slight dip. You need to double check a look for this. Watch very closely at the rocker arms and if you do not see the slight dip on a rocker slightly opening a valve you are not going to get a Automatic Compression Release. Take the spark plug out and turn the engine slowly manually and you can also insert a dowel rod into the spark plug hole so you can tell when the piston is coming up ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE.
Make sure you are on the compression stroke when watching for a rocker arm to take a slight dip. The rocker arm should just briefly dip (this slightly opens a valve to reduce compression) just before TDC then come back up right at TDC and this dip and back up will take place within just a few degrees of flywheel rotation just BEFORE TDC. Watch both rocker arms. I think maybe that China engine ACR is on the exhaust rocker valve but I'm not sure.


The ACR is operated (disabled like you are seeing erratically now) by centrifugal force when the engine starts running and when the engine stops running, a little spring on the ACR mechanical mechanism on the camshaft resets the ACR for the next start. (to reduce start compression)
Summary: centrifugal force disables the ACR for engine run.
Spring return ACR when engine rpm's get below 500 or the engine stopped.


You can review this on-line.

Remove the spark plug and pull the engine over to verify you don't have carb problems and a cylinder full of fuel. If everything is ok, remove the valve cover and turn the engine over slowly by hand to open one valve as far as it will open, stop there, now adjust the closed valve to .003 inch. Repeat the same procedure to adjust the other valve and set it at .003. I don't care what the valve specs say, adjust both valves to .003 clearance. When one valve is completely open, adjust the other valve that is closed to .003. Rotate the engine a few times then recheck the valve lash settings. If it's off, do it again. You cannot go wrong using this method. The lobe will be nowhere near the compression release. Make sure you tighten the lock nut down properly or you'll just be wasting your time as you'll have to readjust the lash after a few minutes run time. The locking nut is your friend.

Also, do some other minor checks before you call it a day. Verify you don't have something silly causing the kickback. Check the flywheel key to make sure it's not sheared or even partially sheared. Make sure your coil air gap is spaced properly from the flywheel, things like that. Verify your carburetor is not leaking fuel into the cylinder. You know 99% of the time when you have an issue it ends up being something small that was overlooked.

You have a Chinese made engine. The compression release mechanisms are terrible on the cams. If valve adjustment is too wide, it won't work at all. Set the valves at .003 if you want the problem solved. Good luck!

shadetree#1 said:

Is this a type?
You typed "When you went to CHARGE things up it would not start"

??????????? What did you charge? Battery or ????

Next: If you are not seeing a slight dip on a rocker arm as the piston is almost at TDC as it's COMING UP ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE with the valves set at minimum specs (properly adjusted at 1/4 inch past TDC)
the ACR on the camshaft is not operating properly.

You say that you do not ever see a slight dip. You need to double check a look for this. Watch very closely at the rocker arms and if you do not see the slight dip on a rocker slightly opening a valve you are not going to get a Automatic Compression Release. Take the spark plug out and turn the engine slowly manually and you can also insert a dowel rod into the spark plug hole so you can tell when the piston is coming up ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE.
Make sure you are on the compression stroke when watching for a rocker arm to take a slight dip. The rocker arm should just briefly dip (this slightly opens a valve to reduce compression) just before TDC then come back up right at TDC and this dip and back up will take place within just a few degrees of flywheel rotation just BEFORE TDC. Watch both rocker arms. I think maybe that China engine ACR is on the exhaust rocker valve but I'm not sure.


The ACR is operated (disabled like you are seeing erratically now) by centrifugal force when the engine starts running and when the engine stops running, a little spring on the ACR mechanical mechanism on the camshaft resets the ACR for the next start. (to reduce start compression)
Summary: centrifugal force disables the ACR for engine run.
Spring return ACR when engine rpm's get below 500 or the engine stopped.


You can review this on-line.

Click to expand...

By charging things up, I meant flashlights, battery banks, cell phone etc.
I studied up on the ACR, and when I had the engine apart, it was free moving (the spring was pushing back) and everything seemed intact and working.
I will pull the valve cover and check again for the rocker dip,

Daniel 3721 said:

By charging things up, I meant flashlights, battery banks, cell phone etc.
I studied up on the ACR, and when I had the engine apart, it was free moving (the spring was pushing back) and everything seemed intact and working.
I will pull the valve cover and check again for the rocker dip.

Daniel 3721 said:

By charging things up, I meant flashlights, battery banks, cell phone etc.
I studied up on the ACR, and when I had the engine apart, it was free moving (the spring was pushing back) and everything seemed intact and working.
I will pull the valve cover and check again for the rocker dip.

Click to expand...

If it is the ACR why did it start and run fine? But when I went to charge things up it reverted back to the same issue?

Click to expand...

I did like you suggested and checked for internal leakage of fuel. There was none. No gas in the oil and the level was fine.
It's been snowing again, so it'll probably

ChrisBFRPKY said:

Remove the spark plug and pull the engine over to verify you don't have carb problems and a cylinder full of fuel. If everything is ok, remove the valve cover and turn the engine over slowly by hand to open one valve as far as it will open, stop there, now adjust the closed valve to .003 inch. Repeat the same procedure to adjust the other valve and set it at .003. I don't care what the valve specs say, adjust both valves to .003 clearance. When one valve is completely open, adjust the other valve that is closed to .003. Rotate the engine a few times then recheck the valve lash settings. If it's off, do it again. You cannot go wrong using this method. The lobe will be nowhere near the compression release. Make sure you tighten the lock nut down properly or you'll just be wasting your time as you'll have to readjust the lash after a few minutes run time. The locking nut is your friend.

Also, do some other minor checks before you call it a day. Verify you don't have something silly causing the kickback. Check the flywheel key to make sure it's not sheared or even partially sheared. Make sure your coil air gap is spaced properly from the flywheel, things like that. Verify your carburetor is not leaking fuel into the cylinder. You know 99% of the time when you have an issue it ends up being something small that was overlooked.

You have a Chinese made engine. The compression release mechanisms are terrible on the cams. If valve adjustment is too wide, it won't work at all. Set the valves at .003 if you want the problem solved. Good luck!

Click to expand...

Daniel 3721 said:

Is setting the lashes as you suggested a way of "bypassing" the ACR?

Click to expand...

I set both valve lashes to 0.003.
It starts and stays running. It doesn't seem to have much power though and only puts out around 90 volts

Couple questions:
Since you have never seen this gen run and it's new to you I have some questions and things to think about.
Since your gen now starts and runs we need to look at the fuel delivery system and the rpm's/Hertz of the unit. You can review meaning of Hertz of a generator on-line.


Do you have a Hertz (meter or any meter that will read the Hertz (frequency of the generator voltage)????? The meter needs to read at least 55 to 70 hertz.

You say it's dual fuel. What is the fuels it will runs on and what fuel are you now running it on??????

How does the engine act if you pull the governor arm back to slow engine rpms? (does the engine idle good or is it rough at idle or no idle???????

Forest#2 said:

Couple questions:
Since you have never seen this gen run and it's new to you I have some questions and things to think about.
Since your gen now starts and runs we need to look at the fuel delivery system and the rpm's/Hertz of the unit. You can review meaning of Hertz of a generator on-line.


Do you have a Hertz (meter or any meter that will read the Hertz (frequency of the generator voltage)????? The meter needs to read at least 55 to 70 hertz.

You say it's dual fuel. What is the fuels it will runs on and what fuel are you now running it on??????

How does the engine act if you pull the governor arm back to slow engine rpms? (does the engine idle good or is it rough at idle or no idle???????

Click to expand...

I don't have a hertz meter.
It runs on propane and gasoline. I only use gasoline.
It's a rough idle that will stall. If a heavy load is applied, like a welding machine, I have to crank up the idle rpm's to keep it from stalling out.

Daniel 3721 said:

I set both valve lashes to 0.003.
It starts and stays running. It doesn't seem to have much power though and only puts out around 90 volts

Click to expand...

If your output is only 90 volts you'll need to check the engine's running RPM, it's likely set too low. Around 3,600 RPM for most generators is normally where you want to be, you should have around 120 volts at 60 HZ. If you're running at 3600 RPM and those output numbers don't match up, you may have other issues. If you've set the valve lash at .003, you're good to go there. If you're having other running issues it's probably time to look into the carburetor or adjustment. If you're not comfortable with getting it fine tuned yourself, almost any local shop can do this for you, for a fee. If you're mechanically inclined and it seems to be an issue with the carburetor, just replace it with a new aftermarket carb. They're only $10-$12 if you shop around. Costs less than a kit in most cases.

Couple hints to consider:

When looking at the $10-$20 replacement carbs you will notice that usually the Gen's carb choke linkage area is slightly different than just a standard carb, so be aware of such.
Gen's carb sometimes have a long plastic lever that allows the engine choke lever to be accessible above the air filter housing. Do not assume you can remove the choke lever from your carb for use on a replacement carb. some gen replacement carbs will come with an assortment of choke levers due to such.
You will need something like this one on fleece bay USUALLY.
153657818538
You can also get a Hertz meter for less than $20. You need to set the Hz at about about 63 cycle to get 120v. You set the Hz (or rpms of the engine) by adjusting the tension on the governor spring which usually has a screw or bolt linkage connected to the governor spring connected to the governor arm. More tension on the spring = more rpms.

Using a welder or a electric motor is not a good thing for testing the load handling capability of a small emergency gen. Use a resistance load, like for example an electric heater so as the continuous load is not varying up and down. 500watt quartz lights, electric toaster. No large electric motor devices.
If 220v load try about 2000 watt load at first and check the voltage and Hz as the load is removed and applied.
If using 120v load use about a 10 amp load at first or 1200 watts.
You have to keep a heads up when loading up the split wired 120v loads.
Some gens are split wired duplex receptacle for the 120volt load receptacle at 1/2 the gen watts rating or 2750 watts max (intermittent) per single receptacle or 15-20 amps max. (is why you should test the 120v at only 10 amps.
If the gen has resettable breakers just test the gen voltage/hertz at approx 1/2 the amperage of the breakers.

I'll check into the hertz meter.
Right now I have to turn the idle way up to prevent the gen from dieing when I run a heavy load, i.e. welder. This wasn't necessary before.
Thanks for the advice!

ChrisBFRPKY said:

If your output is only 90 volts you'll need to check the engine's running RPM, it's likely set too low. Around 3,600 RPM for most generators is normally where you want to be, you should have around 120 volts at 60 HZ. If you're running at 3600 RPM and those output numbers don't match up, you may have other issues. If you've set the valve lash at .003, you're good to go there. If you're having other running issues it's probably time to look into the carburetor or adjustment. If you're not comfortable with getting it fine tuned yourself, almost any local shop can do this for you, for a fee. If you're mechanically inclined and it seems to be an issue with the carburetor, just replace it with a new aftermarket carb. They're only $10-$12 if you shop around. Costs less than a kit in most cases.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it!
I put a new carb. on, so I don't think it's that.
It's running rough. And by rough I mean there's a slight knocking noise. Also, when I shut it off the whole generator shakes violently and there is a loud knock.

Time for some serious inspection.

I think the guy knocking is named Rodney. Or Rod for short.

Daniel 3721 said:

I'm having issues with starting my portable generator. It pulls easy with no sparkplug.
I removed the valve cover and clean carbon buildup out. I removed and cleaned the carburetor. The spark plug is gapped correctly and so is the (I think it's called) magneto on the flywheel. The flywheel key, which is a half circle key, was slightly out of position. I removed it and put it back correctly and I'm still having issues.
If I slowly pull the pull cord a few times, it will pull start it. does anybody have any ideas? I live off grid and this is my source of electricity. I appreciate any help.

Click to expand...

over filled with oil?

RGSERVICES said:

over filled with oil?

Click to expand...

Oil is halfway between L and H. It runs better now and doesn't shake or knock. It does blow blue smoke for about 15 seconds when cold starting.
It puts out 120v but the idle is turned up higher than it was prior to "fixing" it.
I appreciate everyone's input and help and I'm still open to more advice about the blue smoke.