Export thread

My Husk acts like it is starving for fuel after 15 minutes running wide open on uneven terrain. I took it to the dealership where I purchased it, after doing the obvious, spark plugs, air cleaner, oil and filter, gas filter. Mr. Husk ran the mower and it did the running out of gas thing after 15 minutes. Mr. Husk replaced fuel pump, gas cap, Gas filter?? He said the NAPA filter was suspicious and replaced it with Husk filter. Mr. Husk said he blew out the fuel line and it did have some kind of restriction. Mr. Husk ran mower on level ground for 40 minutes and never bogged. I paid bill , took it home started cutting after 15 minutes , you guessed it, yes it started bogging and I had to choke the engine to keep it running to get it back to garage. I called Mr. Husk he said the next step is to pull gas tank, pour fuel into white bucket and look for whatever. I will be doing this today myself. Is there anything else that would make the engine be fuel starved after 15 minutes running wide open on uneven terrain? Thanks for any info.

Post all numbers from engine. What year & how many hours on tractor?

Carburetor would act up, try using high test gas with a quality fuel additive next time you fill gas can.

Yeah I would clean fuel tank and make sure fuel line is free of debris.

Mikel1 said:

Yeah I would clean fuel tank and make sure fuel line is free of debris.

Click to expand...

I removed tank , poured gas thru screen I found some debris. I let tank dry out then was able to shake all the remaining debris to the tank inlet and vacuum
it out. After running mower for 30 minutes it bogged and now I'm at a loss. Any help is appreciated.

mechanic mark said:

Post all numbers from engine. What year & how many hours on tractor?

Carburetor would act up, try using high test gas with a quality fuel additive next time you fill gas can.

Click to expand...

I removed tank , poured gas thru screen I found some debris. I let tank dry out then was able to shake all the remaining debris to the tank inlet and vacuum
it out. After running mower for 30 minutes it bogged and now I'm at a loss. Any help is appreciated.
The Husk is a 2011 model and has 212 hrs.

When it bogs, does choking help smooth it out?
If I'm looking at the right manual there is a fuel valve, is it on primary or reserve setting?

Mikel1 said:

When it bogs, does choking help smooth it out?
If I'm looking at the right manual there is a fuel valve, is it on primary or reserve setting?

Click to expand...

The fuel tank was full running on the primary when the mower bogged I tried the reserve side , the mower ran only if I babied the choke it ran the same switching back to primary, babying the choke, as the mower started to die I would pull the choke and limp back to the garage. When the mower cooled down it would run smooth for 20 to 30 minutes then the mower would start to bog down and die. I'm still at a loss. I'm thinking that I should contact Kawasaki tech support. Any thoughts?

Let's see if we can narrow this down. When it is cooled down pull the fuel line to carb, using a suitable container check the fuel flow while cranking engine over a few times. That will give you a baseline then when it starts bogging recheck it.

Mikel1 said:

Let's see if we can narrow this down. When it is cooled down pull the fuel line to carb, using a suitable container check the fuel flow while cranking engine over a few times. That will give you a baseline then when it starts bogging recheck it.

Click to expand...

Mr. Mike, my next step was removing the carb. and looking for debris in the float bowl, this carb has a gas solenoid shut off that is screwed
into the float bowl holding the bowl to the float chamber, and it has a needle, spring loaded. The old style carbs use a spring tensioned needle . I found no dirt in the bowl. I put it all back together. I cut hard for 20 minutes when the engine started shutting down I remembered a work buddy had a 1982 Renault and when it stopped running he carried ice packs to cool down an electronic power pack under the hood, anyway I got a small Dixie cup of ice opened the hood and held it on the gas solenoid I had to have a glove on not to get burned, 2 to 3 minutes I cut for another 20 minutes and a repeat bog, ice again , cut 20 minutes. the next day ordered new gas solenoid. I pray that this is the problem fix. At least when the engine stops here I'm in my yard. My silly bud was in traffic when his old car stopped. Thanks

willyp33 said:

[...]
I remembered a work buddy had a 1982 Renault and when it stopped running he carried ice packs to cool down an electronic power pack under the hood, anyway I got a small Dixie cup of ice opened the hood and held it on the gas solenoid I had to have a glove on not to get burned, 2 to 3 minutes I cut for another 20 minutes and a repeat bog, ice again , cut 20 minutes. the next day ordered new gas solenoid. I pray that this is the problem fix. At least when the engine stops here I'm in my yard. My silly bud was in traffic when his old car stopped. Thanks

Click to expand...

IN bloody CREDIBLE !!
Same fix for two differing problems..good one there Will..!

Your problem is the needle in the float solenoid is not being "sucked in"
fully to it's open position. Likely corrosion in the sleeve or a busted closure spring.
Check it out if possible... the construction may well be a crimped over seal.

Your old buddy's problem is typical Euro design SNAFU fir exports.
A cold country vehicle shipped to a hot country environ.... the 'sophisticate'
electrics fell over in engine bay temperatures. 12VDC fans fitted in front of
radiators usually made the difference.

Your post was an excellent read...thanks.

KK

Had a thought wandering through the "was running, stopped and wont start
until cooled" posts to ponder if the "hot bowl" symptom is not a common theme.
Just not always checked and thus made comment on in intro as this OP has done.

As fuel solenoids in bowls are so common a feature these days I am thinking
there may well be a potential hazard with solenoid cores not opening fully due
to corroded slides. More than enough potential for vapour lock to occur regularly
and maybe even possible internal combustion, a fire hazard.
Thoughts? New thread/topic?

KK

willyp33 said:

Mr. Mike, my next step was removing the carb. and looking for debris in the float bowl, this carb has a gas solenoid shut off that is screwed
into the float bowl holding the bowl to the float chamber, and it has a needle, spring loaded. The old style carbs use a spring tensioned needle . I found no dirt in the bowl. I put it all back together. I cut hard for 20 minutes when the engine started shutting down I remembered a work buddy had a 1982 Renault and when it stopped running he carried ice packs to cool down an electronic power pack under the hood, anyway I got a small Dixie cup of ice opened the hood and held it on the gas solenoid I had to have a glove on not to get burned, 2 to 3 minutes I cut for another 20 minutes and a repeat bog, ice again , cut 20 minutes. the next day ordered new gas solenoid. I pray that this is the problem fix. At least when the engine stops here I'm in my yard. My silly bud was in traffic when his old car stopped. Thanks

Click to expand...

Sounds good, hopefully that is the fix. :thumbsup:

KrashnKraka said:

IN bloody CREDIBLE !!
Same fix for two differing problems..good one there Will..!

Your problem is the needle in the float solenoid is not being "sucked in"
fully to it's open position. Likely corrosion in the sleeve or a busted closure spring.
Check it out if possible... the construction may well be a crimped over seal.

Your old buddy's problem is typical Euro design SNAFU fir exports.
A cold country vehicle shipped to a hot country environ.... the 'sophisticate'
electrics fell over in engine bay temperatures. 12VDC fans fitted in front of
radiators usually made the difference.

Your post was an excellent read...thanks.

KK

Click to expand...

Hi I have the same tractor and don't have the problem ( yet) however I do have problem with the drive belt breaking. I don't think I'm putting it on correctly because the picture is the manual is useless !!!. If you still have this tractor could you do me a great favor and take a picture of the bottom of the tractor showing how the belt is installed. Thanks in advance !!!!