flywheel removal ?

B

BILLCOFF

Forum Newbie
I have a riding lawnmower with a briggs and stratton 17.5 hp ohv. Just would like to know, What size flywheel puller do I need to get the job done? How could I have mad this post yesterday at 11:59 if I just joined today, no more than 20 minutes ago?
 
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Back the flywheel nut off until it's flush with the end of the shaft. Place a wonder bar ( nail bar ) under the flywheel and apply 5 or 10 lbs. pressure to the end of the bar. This will lift the wheel and take all the end thrust from the crank shaft. Now drop an 8 lb. sledge hammer squarely on the crank shaft end with the flush nut. Remove the nut and lift the flywheel off.

Don't be concerned about the time unless it's time to be at work, time to get off from work, Friday and 5:00, nap time or bed time.
 
BILLCOFF said:
I have a riding lawnmower with a briggs and stratton 17.5 hp ohv. Just would like to know, What size flywheel puller do I need to get the job done? How could I have mad this post yesterday at 11:59 if I just joined today, no more than 20 minutes ago?
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SeniorCitizen said:
Back the flywheel nut off until it's flush with the end of the shaft. Place a wonder bar ( nail bar ) under the flywheel and apply 5 or 10 lbs. pressure to the end of the bar. This will lift the wheel and take all the end thrust from the crank shaft. Now drop an 8 lb. sledge hammer squarely on the crank shaft end with the flush nut. Remove the nut and lift the flywheel off.

Don't be concerned about the time unless it's time to be at work, time to get off from work, Friday and 5:00, nap time or bed time.
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I don't like the hammer part myself. Good way to do damage if you don't know what you are doing. Yes I have done it the hammer way myself in a pinch. Just a two or three bar puller that matches your flywheel pulling holes. Lot safer but might just take a few more minutes.
 
reynoldston said:
I don't like the hammer part myself. Good way to do damage if you don't know what you are doing. Yes I have done it the hammer way myself in a pinch. Just a two or three bar puller that matches your flywheel pulling holes. Lot safer but might just take a few more minutes.
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One not knowing what they are doing is usually how things get screwed up. Likewise a flywheel can be ruined with a puller. If I were to use a puller the puller screw would get bumped with a hammer after a slight tension was applied. That's just the nature of tapers and that's how they like to be treated. You know that and I know that but possibly someone new to the trade doesn't know that.

The reason a hammer doesn't work for some is they chose the wrong hammer, like possibly a 16 oz. claw hammer and after beating he!! out of it the shaft is ruined. If an 8lb. isn't available a 3lb. works fairly well with a little more force but one whack usually does it.
 
SeniorCitizen said:
One not knowing what they are doing is usually how things get screwed up. Likewise a flywheel can be ruined with a puller. If I were to use a puller the puller screw would get bumped with a hammer after a slight tension was applied. That's just the nature of tapers and that's how they like to be treated. You know that and I know that but possibly someone new to the trade doesn't know that.

The reason a hammer doesn't work for some is they chose the wrong hammer, like possibly a 16 oz. claw hammer and after beating he!! out of it the shaft is ruined. If an 8lb. isn't available a 3lb. works fairly well with a little more force but one whack usually does it.
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I don't have any experience with this kind of thing and a Briggs & Stratton flywheel may be something entirely different than a Lawn-Boy Duraforce's flywheel, but here's what Lawn-Boy has to say in their Service Manual:

2. Remove flywheel nut and starter cup. Reinstall nut flush with the end of the crankshaft.
3. Remove the flywheel by pulling up on the edge of flywheel while striking the flywheel nut with a soft hammer.​

Emphasis is mine.
 
I hear, but don't like prying either. H Frt has copper hammers cheap. Soft blows along the CL of the shaft seem better to me. I use a 2 jaw puller with tension and strike.

:2cents::laughing:
 
motoman said:
I hear, but don't like prying either. H Frt has copper hammers cheap. Soft blows along the CL of the shaft seem better to me. I use a 2 jaw puller with tension and strike.

:2cents::laughing:
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When a prybar is mentioned those not in the know assume we are trying to pry the flywheel off. Those in the know realize that couldn't be farther from the truth.

The bar is only to lift the weight of the flywheel and crank shaft off of the thrust bearing so the crank shaft has a few thousandths to drop when the two tapered surfaces become free. Those that don't know and want to learn can observe someone removing a tapered drill chuck from a drill press or wood lathe tail stock or metal lathe etc.

Recently I demonstrated this to a fellow who couldn't get the chuck off of his drill press. Not having the correct tool, a drift, I improvised and popped it out in a second. He was just amazed those two tapers were there and had the holding power they did.

If a soft hammer isn't available, sacrifice a penny if you are concerned about damaging the shaft end.
 
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