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Ferris IS300Z cut off suddenly and now will not start - Stuck in a yard

#1

R

Ru4him

I checked fuses and battery terminals. Battery is charged.

When I turn the key, I hear a faint click from the starter area.

I replaced the starter, ignition switch, both relays, and time delay module.

With the switch on the small terminal from the solenoid has no power.

Any ideas? I can't get to it to put it on a trailer.



Also, my temperature gauge is broken. But it's been broken for a long time. it's still wired up.


#2

B

bertsmobile1

For the purpose of getting it back to the workshop only, remove the blower housing & remove the kill wire from the magneto coils & tie them off out of the way
Replace the blower housing
Check that the fuel solenoid on the carb is opening .
Turn it on, and jump directly to the starter motor
Drive slowly to the workshop.
If the fuel solenoid is working shut the engine down by turning off.
If not pull the plug leads.

Don't have any Ferris manuals or circuit diagrams so this is it from me.

Generically you can pull the plug on the key switch, jump the B & S terminals then follow the S wire through all of the switches checking for power
IF that checks out start jumping the relays.
Depending upon the age of the mower the lap bars will be either power & ground ( machines without relays ) or ground only.
Switching ground circuits tends to confuse most people but it is exactly the same as switching a power circuit except you hook the fixed lead on the test lamp to the + battery terminal


#3

R

Ru4him

bertsmobile1 said:
For the purpose of getting it back to the workshop only, remove the blower housing & remove the kill wire from the magneto coils & tie them off out of the way
Replace the blower housing
Check that the fuel solenoid on the carb is opening .
Turn it on, and jump directly to the starter motor
Drive slowly to the workshop.
If the fuel solenoid is working shut the engine down by turning off.
If not pull the plug leads.

Don't have any Ferris manuals or circuit diagrams so this is it from me.

Generically you can pull the plug on the key switch, jump the B & S terminals then follow the S wire through all of the switches checking for power
IF that checks out start jumping the relays.
Depending upon the age of the mower the lap bars will be either power & ground ( machines without relays ) or ground only.
Switching ground circuits tends to confuse most people but it is exactly the same as switching a power circuit except you hook the fixed lead on the test lamp to the + battery terminal
Click to expand...

It was running perfectly. Then a muffled pop. A fuse was burned out and the wire going to it was burnt. It was the charging circuit

I replaced the fuse bar with another one that uses 20 Amp minifuses. it was all I could find locally.

IDK what blower housing you are referring to. This seems to be an electrical problem. Could use some suggestions.


#4

B

bertsmobile1

Ru4him said:
It was running perfectly. Then a muffled pop. A fuse was burned out and the wire going to it was burnt. It was the charging circuit

I replaced the fuse bar with another one that uses 20 Amp minifuses. it was all I could find locally.

IDK what blower housing you are referring to. This seems to be an electrical problem. Could use some suggestions.
Click to expand...

Come on, "Remove the blower housing and then take the kill wires off the magneto coils", aint talking about the discharge chute .
You will find the term in the engine operators manual which of course you read and followed the maintenance guide which tells you to remover the said same guide to clean the cooling fins which of course you do every second season if not more often.

The post was a description of how to get the mower back to your shop by isolating the engine from the mower , electrically.
If you would rather run around your mower in the middle of the yard under mid summer sun so be it,'Good luck.


#5

R

Ru4him

Update:

New battery, new ignition switch

Checked fuses

Tested all safety switches.

Small terminal on solenoid has no voltage when key is on.

Jump from Positive Solenoid Terminal to small terminal and the starter turns the engine over

Any Suggestions ??????????


#6

B

bertsmobile1

Yes,
The starting circuit .
Power goes from the hot wire on the solenoid to the fuse to the B terminal on the key switch ( they are marked on the back ) the key then connects it to the S terminal then to the PTO switch to the parking brake switch to the trigger ( small ) wire on the solenoid.
Some put a relay in this last run and use a neg ( ground ) trigger from the lap bar switches to trip the relay to trip the solenoid
If you have clean access then I use a test lamp on each switch and check for power before & after the switch by back probing the plug.
If there is no access to the switch then I pull the plug, check for power in and jump the plug with a short wire fitted with spades at each end.
Generally it is easier to start from the fuse but you can short cut if there is a relay and start there


#7

R

Ru4him

Mechanics say it needs a new wiring harness.

Ferris doesn't carry the harness part# 5061583 anymore.

Any ideas where I can get one? (new or used)


#8

B

bertsmobile1

Mower wiring is not rocket science and there is not much of it there.
Very rare to come across a mower that needs a full loom unless it has been in a fire.
All it needs is a little patience , a methodical approach & some time.


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