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I just picked up an old snapper rear engine mower with a bad engine, the engine could probably be repaired but I'd rather get a new or rebuilt one. The problem is knowing if these newer model engines will fit the mower and the pulley.

The engine on it now is a 8hp briggs & stratton, no electric start, the model # is 190702 (Whole # is 190702-2016-01), the shaft is 1" and since I haven't removed it yet the best I can tell it seems to be about 3-1/2" long. The bolt pattern is what I'm most worried about I guess.

If anyone can help me figure this out I'd appreciate it very much.

Thanks

Les

search small engine wharehouse and click on repowering old equipment,find your snapper model number and itll tell you what the replacement engine will be

lesvor said:

I just picked up an old snapper rear engine mower with a bad engine, the engine could probably be repaired but I'd rather get a new or rebuilt one. The problem is knowing if these newer model engines will fit the mower and the pulley.

The engine on it now is a 8hp briggs & stratton, no electric start, the model # is 190702 (Whole # is 190702-2016-01), the shaft is 1" and since I haven't removed it yet the best I can tell it seems to be about 3-1/2" long. The bolt pattern is what I'm most worried about I guess.

If anyone can help me figure this out I'd appreciate it very much.

Thanks

Les

Click to expand...

You can bolt up any engine you want.
I would go up to a 12hp
Very easy to add a starter

(( racing is the only sport that you need two balls ))

Ok, I was a little skeptical of the small engine warehouse recommendation , but after taking a better look at it in daylight it looks like they were right on and as it turns out the motor off my broken mower will bolt right up, it even has a good spot for the battery.

Next problem: Ok, it's not really a problem, just something to figure out. The mower I'm going to use is off a mid 2000's MTD, there are at least 3 safety switches that I can think of. I'm thinking I'll just pull the wiring harness out intact and use the same ignition switch and wires. I'll need to bypass these safety switches so I need to understand how they operate, it looks like the seat switch is closed to run, open kills the engine... do the rest of the switches work the same way, so I could just connect those wires together, cap them and stash them?

Thanks for the help

Les

A little more info is needed. You say the original motor is a Briggs. What is the replacement motor? If it is also a Briggs, moving the wiring harness with the new motor should not be necessary. The hookups on the motor should be the same(relatively, depending on model), regardless of the number of safety switches. And even if it's a different make of motor, the circuits used for safety switches are similar by nature, and should be able to be wired into the safety switch(s) on the rider.

But not knowing exactly(my old Snapper rear engine has been gone for a couple years), I would think the switch works in reverse of what you said. I'll bet it's open to run, and closed(in this case would ground out) cuts it off.

OK, the replacement engine is a 12.5 hp briggs, I don't know the model #, manufactured mid 2000's. I just don't want to have to track down why it won't turn over or has no spark after I get it moved, it seems like it has so many stupid little "safety features" that something is bound to trip me up on this if I don't keep the wiring harness intact (shortened but intact).

I would think the switch works in reverse of what you said. I'll bet it's open to run, and closed(in this case would ground out) cuts it off.

Click to expand...

Ok, I'll have to get find my mutimeter to figure that out probably, the thing is, it does more than just ground out the coil, it also disables the starter, all of the switches do, actually the seat switch somehow works with the blade engagement switch so it's possible you are right but when i put pressure on the seat you can watch the switch and it appears to be making contact.

I wouldn't have been able to do it without youtube, There is a good video HERE for the wiring. I had carefully pulled the entire wiring harness from the MTD and if I had watched this video first I could have saved myself some trouble. I did have to do some cutting, the hole pattern on the 12.5 was exact but the fender area had to be chopped up a bit to get the engine over far enough to bolt it up.