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Engine cut out; found broken wire on carb connector?

#1

G

goltho

Hi all,

First post, so greetings. :) My Mountfield (details in sig below) suddenly cut out this morning and wouldn't restart despite turning over. I checked the fuel supply which is fine, and in the process spotted that an orange-ish wire had become detached from a small 2-pin connector (other wire is black to ground) on a small cylinder attached to the bottom of the carb. I need to remove the female pin in the connector which is a pain in the armpit, as the wire has pulled out and left the small pin inside.

Anyone know what the connector is connected to on the carb? And are there wiring diagrams available?

Thanks.

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#2

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

that is the anti afterfire Valve it should connect to (sometimes called fuel solenoid), when you turn the key on, 12V is sent to the valve and the plunger retracts and allows the main jet in the carburetor to open and allow fuel to pass through. when you turn the key off, your ignition coil gets grounded killing spark, and the power is also cut to the valve and the plunger blocks the main jet preventing the engine from drawing in fuel while it's spinning down and going POP out of the muffler.

Looking at the IPL, there are 3 carbs used on this engine, Ruixing (Roo Shing) Walbro, and Nikki.. could you provide the date code of the engine? it should be located where you found the model number, and have several digits.
https://www.partstree.com/models/31...upply-kit-carburetor-overhaul-walbro-nikki-3/ <---------Nikki and walbro
https://www.partstree.com/models/31...or-ruixing-kit-carburetor-overhaul-ruixing-0/ <---------- Ruixing

https://www.partstree.com/parts/briggs-stratton-699915/ <---- Nikki carb solenoid
https://www.partstree.com/parts/briggs-stratton-694393/ <---------- Ruixing
https://www.partstree.com/parts/briggs-stratton-846639/ <------- Walbro


#3

G

goltho

Scrubcadet10 said:
that is the anti afterfire Valve it should connect to (sometimes called fuel solenoid), when you turn the key on, 12V is sent to the valve and the plunger retracts and allows the main jet in the carburetor to open and allow fuel to pass through. when you turn the key off, your ignition coil gets grounded killing spark, and the power is also cut to the valve and the plunger blocks the main jet preventing the engine from drawing in fuel while it's spinning down and going POP out of the muffler.

Looking at the IPL, there are 3 carbs used on this engine, Ruixing (Roo Shing) Walbro, and Nikki.. could you provide the date code of the engine? it should be located where you found the model number, and have several digits.
https://www.partstree.com/models/31...upply-kit-carburetor-overhaul-walbro-nikki-3/ <---------Nikki and walbro
https://www.partstree.com/models/31...or-ruixing-kit-carburetor-overhaul-ruixing-0/ <---------- Ruixing

https://www.partstree.com/parts/briggs-stratton-699915/ <---- Nikki carb solenoid
https://www.partstree.com/parts/briggs-stratton-694393/ <---------- Ruixing
https://www.partstree.com/parts/briggs-stratton-846639/ <------- Walbro
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info - much appreciated. The engine code is 020808ZE.

So would the disconnected wire on that valve stop the engine from starting? Thanks.


#4

StarTech

StarTech

You need the .062 pin extractor tool. Molex PN 11-06-0002
The housing is Molex PN 03-06-1023.
The female pin is Molex PN 02-06-1103

You also need an open barrel crimper to crimp on the new terminal or you crimp at it.

Or the other option is to buy the Briggs engine wiring harness.

No need for wiring schematic has you only got ground and a switch 12v leads. Two wires.


#5

G

goltho

Scrubcadet10 said:
that is the anti afterfire Valve it should connect to (sometimes called fuel solenoid), when you turn the key on, 12V is sent to the valve and the plunger retracts and allows the main jet in the carburetor to open and allow fuel to pass through. when you turn the key off, your ignition coil gets grounded killing spark, and the power is also cut to the valve and the plunger blocks the main jet preventing the engine from drawing in fuel while it's spinning down and going POP out of the muffler.

Looking at the IPL, there are 3 carbs used on this engine, Ruixing (Roo Shing) Walbro, and Nikki.. could you provide the date code of the engine? it should be located where you found the model number, and have several digits.
https://www.partstree.com/models/31...upply-kit-carburetor-overhaul-walbro-nikki-3/ <---------Nikki and walbro
https://www.partstree.com/models/31...or-ruixing-kit-carburetor-overhaul-ruixing-0/ <---------- Ruixing

https://www.partstree.com/parts/briggs-stratton-699915/ <---- Nikki carb solenoid
https://www.partstree.com/parts/briggs-stratton-694393/ <---------- Ruixing
https://www.partstree.com/parts/briggs-stratton-846639/ <------- Walbro
Click to expand...
StarTech said:
You need the .062 pin extractor tool. Molex PN 11-06-0002
The housing is Molex PN 03-06-1023.
The female pin is Molex PN 02-06-1103

You also need an open barrel crimper to crimp on the new terminal or you crimp at it.

Or the other option is to buy the Briggs engine wiring harness.

No need for wiring schematic has you only got ground and a switch 12v leads. Two wires.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that. Is there a recommended parts supplier?


#6

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

goltho said:
Thanks for the info - much appreciated. The engine code is 020808ZE.

So would the disconnected wire on that valve stop the engine from starting? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Yes, no power to it = the plunger stopping fuel.


#7

StarTech

StarTech

Correct, the solenoid is blocking fuel flow through the main carburetor nozzle.. The carburetor is still full of fuel.


#8

StarTech

StarTech

goltho said:
Thanks for that. Is there a recommended parts supplier?
Click to expand...
I use Mouser for my Molex parts.


#9

G

goltho

Thanks chaps/chapesses for your great help. However I forgot to ask: I obviously blew the small (3A?) fuse on the PCB in the process of fettling. Anyone know the part number for that please?

Cancel - I managed to read the existing fuse (6.3A 250V "T" rating)


#10

S

slomo

Or solder and heat shrink it up. Not mowing with the space shuttle.


#11

StarTech

StarTech

well my experience is that the wires will not stay in place and short together without the housing. Although, if the terminal is fully insulated and the wires zip to the solenoid that might work.

As for the fuse where on the mower is it located. And if on the mower will need its model number. I haven't seen a circuit board on the engine yet but who knows one might have been recently by the engine OEM.


#12

G

goltho

StarTech said:
well my experience is that the wires will not stay in place and short together without the housing. Although, if the terminal is fully insulated and the wires zip to the solenoid that might work.

As for the fuse where on the mower is it located. And if on the mower will need its model number. I haven't seen a circuit board on the engine yet but who knows one might have been recently by the engine OEM.
Click to expand...

The PCB is fixed to the firewall above the fuel tank and has the LED dash lights and all other components on it, including the fuse. I've managed to read the fuse ID markings (6.3A 250V "T" type, 20mm) and have ordered one along with the connector pin.


#13

G

goltho

slomo said:
Or solder and heat shrink it up. Not mowing with the space shuttle.
Click to expand...

True story. ?


#14

G

goltho

To update, the connector pins and fuse arrived today. I ended up discarding the original connector as I didn't want to spend £25/$25 on a use-once removal tool. I soldered the disconnected +12V and the existing -12V ground wire to two new pins, heat-shrunk them, then sleeved both wires with heat shrink, then sleeved that heat shrink with a heat-resistant sleeve. The pins slid on the valve pins nice & firmly. Fuse replaced, fired her up, good to go! Grass cut.?

Thanks so much again for the input which made this job a nice learning experience and a quick fix. ?


#15

StarTech

StarTech

goltho said:
To update, the connector pins and fuse arrived today. I ended up discarding the original connector as I didn't want to spend £25/$25 on a use-once removal tool. I soldered the disconnected +12V and the existing -12V ground wire to two new pins, heat-shrunk them, then sleeved both wires with heat shrink, then sleeved that heat shrink with a heat-resistant sleeve. The pins slid on the valve pins nice & firmly. Fuse replaced, fired her up, good to go! Grass cut.?

Thanks so much again for the input which made this job a nice learning experience and a quick fix. ?
Click to expand...
But the housing itself was only 0.25 usd which would have been a better choice. The tool was offered in case you were a shop.


#16

J

Joed756

Am I looking t the photo correctly? You're doing this work in your house?


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