Engine acts like it has dead battery but battery is new there is backstory.

[griff7373]

Good Evening,

This is my first post so be gentle. I have a Cub cadet LT1024 (13AR11CP712) with a Briggs and Stratton 446777-0302-E1 engine in it, I use it for hauling stuff around the yard. Anyway the other day I was on it and it was running good but had a bad electrical burning smell so I cut it off and kept an eye on it to make sure it wasn't going to catch fire. A few days later I went to start it and nothing not a click or anything, I sniffed around and found the voltage regulator stunk like it was burnt and started to look into the stator / alternator under the flywheel and saw that is was definitely burned up and needed replacing. I ran down to my local shop with parts in hand and was told that wasn't my problem that the engine should still run even with these parts bad and to check the starter, I had them test the starter and it was good, I had already tested it with no luck on my end by straight wiring from the battery to the starter with no luck but it tested good for them. So now I'm at a total loss on where to go next as it will not start or click or anything, I still have the stator and voltage regulator off the engine as I debate my next move.

Should the engine still start without these being installed? I would think that if they where bad it would keep it from starting as part of some safety circuit. The lawnmower continued to run even after the burning smell started. I would thing if it was a lawnmower safety it would have cut off right then versus continuing to run until I cut it off and then not starting the next time I used it. The only safety on the mower that I could think of that would keep it from making any noise on trying to start would be the parking brake. I also have no headlights when I turn the key to the headlight position which I would guess should still work even if a safety was tripped.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I just want to add to this that it will not turnover click or anything.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Spend your money at a better parts store where they know what they are talking about.
The stator & rectifier are not needed for the engine to run because the magneto generates it's own spark this is true .

However the carburettor has a solenoid that is normally closed thus requires battery voltage to stay open
If the fuse blows then the solenoid gets no power so the engine stops dead .

If you recharge the battery after use then there is no reason to have a functioning alternator .

 

[griff7373]

Spend your money at a better parts store where they know what they are talking about.
The stator & rectifier are not needed for the engine to run because the magneto generates it's own spark this is true .

However the carburettor has a solenoid that is normally closed thus requires battery voltage to stay open
If the fuse blows then the solenoid gets no power so the engine stops dead .

If you recharge the battery after use then there is no reason to have a functioning alternator .

The lawnmower was still running up until I cut it off even with the burning smell and now acts like I have a dead or disconnected battery, I have tried to jump it and everything and it still will not do anything. So I am not to sure about the blown fuse for the solenoid idea I have ran the wiring down and haven't found an external fuse anywhere in the wiring unless I have overlooked it. I would suspect that by your idea the lawnmower should at least turnover, mine will not even do that it almost acts like something in the safety circuit is the problem but just trying to figure that part out.

 

[bertsmobile1]

First thing to do is check the battery
If the rectifier went dead short then it will drain the battery as well as burning up the stator
So it is jumpers from the battery poles directly to the engine ( ground ) and the + on the starter motor
Motor spins= battery good ( as the starter has already been tested & confirmed to be good ) .
next repeat without the ground jumper
Starter does not spin = bad ground connection
On the top of the battery wire on the starting solenoid should be a thin red wire that goes up to the B terminal on the key switch
There will be a fuse on this wire somewhere .

I have no intention of typing out the entire electrical section of the service manual because you can get one yourself by going to Cub , and entering your model & serial numbers
If you have troubles following the instructions then come back with your specific question.
Plenty here who will happily walk you through but we are mower technicians , not typists.

 

[griff7373]

Finally got it figured out turns out there was a fuse it's in a different spot then I was expecting, actually on the steering housing. I found it completely by accident while I was putting it back together. I had ordered the parts for the alternator and the regulator and was putting it back together minus those parts. The fuse was completely covered in dust and grass clippings. Anyway I replaced it and had headlights again so I tried the starter it still wouldn't engage, I plugged the clutch for the blades back in and the starter engaged, what's weird though is I had tried to get the starter to work prior by going straight to it from my battery and I even tried my truck batter with no luck. Well anyway thank you for your help, now to wrap it up when the parts get here.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Not weird
If you had downloaded the service manual as suggested you would have seen that the power to the solenoid trigger wires goes from the key switch to the PTO switch ( so you can;t start the mower with the blades on ) to the parking brake ( for the same reason as a lot of modern cars then to the solenoid.

 

[griff7373]

You misunderstood the weird part. LOL I was referring to the fact that when I straight wired the starter to the battery the starter wouldn't engage, if I am correct per your guidance earlier and the local shop that would be bypassing any of the mowers safeties as a way to test the starter.

Once I got it all powered up and back together and the starter wouldn't engage I figured then the safety circuit itself was at play since I had headlights which is more then I had before I started.