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Echo PB-265L will not start

#1

C

Chico86

Backpack blower was running last fall (although wide open throttle was rough). Could not get it started this spring - not even a burp. Here's what I have done so far:
- new gas and oil mix
- new plug
- carb removed, rebuilt and cleaned
- piston removed and "de-carbonized" (ring was stuck with gunk)
- strong spark with Oregon 42-087 tester
- compression seems good (no tester, but will blow my thumb off plug hole)

It will not fire at all, even with a small shot of starting fluid directly in carb or putting a few drops of gas directly into the cylinder.

Any ideas of what to try next? I'm hesitant to buy a new carb ($16) as it doesn't seem like it wants to run even when I try direct feeding it.

Thanks.


#2

C

collector0591

on my it was the on/off switch so have you check the switch


#3

C

CharlieH

If the switch is bad you'll get no spark. I have the same problems with a PB 413 T. Mine started with a destroyed crank bearing which I replaced along with standard tune up parts and checks. Watching to see if you get any answers


#4

primerbulb120

primerbulb120

Chico86 said:
Backpack blower was running last fall (although wide open throttle was rough). Could not get it started this spring - not even a burp. Here's what I have done so far:
- new gas and oil mix
- new plug
- carb removed, rebuilt and cleaned
- piston removed and "de-carbonized" (ring was stuck with gunk)
- strong spark with Oregon 42-087 tester
- compression seems good (no tester, but will blow my thumb off plug hole)

It will not fire at all, even with a small shot of starting fluid directly in carb or putting a few drops of gas directly into the cylinder.

Any ideas of what to try next? I'm hesitant to buy a new carb ($16) as it doesn't seem like it wants to run even when I try direct feeding it.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I recently repaired an Echo PE-225 with a similar issue. Ended up that the flywheel key was sheared and the timing was way off. Might want to check that and see if you're able to get it to fire.


#5

primerbulb120

primerbulb120

CharlieH said:
If the switch is bad you'll get no spark. I have the same problems with a PB 413 T. Mine started with a destroyed crank bearing which I replaced along with standard tune up parts and checks. Watching to see if you get any answers
Click to expand...

Charlie, yours won't fire at all? Have you cleaned the muffler and made sure the exhaust port isn't clogged? I'd check the flywheel key on yours as well.


#6

C

CharlieH

primerbulb120 said:
Charlie, yours won't fire at all? Have you cleaned the muffler and made sure the exhaust port isn't clogged? I'd check the flywheel key on yours as well.
Click to expand...

I've cleaned all ports and the spark arrester. (it was relatively clean). There was scuffing and discoloration on the crank and piston that led me to believe that the owner wasn't maintaining the 50-1 mix. I'm not sure if the muffler itself is clogged. If you know of a way to check beyond blowing air through it I'd appreciate hearing it. I'll try sealing off the port around the compressor hose and giving it 100 pounds. I thought of the flywheel key because I noticed a slight loosens of the flywheel. The crank bearing turned out to be the reason. I saw a suggestion to use gasket sealer on the crankcase gasket and the cylinder gasket but haven't tried it yet. The rings were trapped due to scuffing and I broke the lower one when I tried to remove it. I'm getting a little frustrated. Thanks for responding.


#7

primerbulb120

primerbulb120

Way to check the muffler:take it off. The engine will run without it.

Are you sure the engine has enough compression to run at all? How much scoring/scuffing is there on the cylinder and piston?


#8

C

CharlieH

primerbulb120 said:
Way to check the muffler:take it off. The engine will run without it.

Are you sure the engine has enough compression to run at all? How much scoring/scuffing is there on the cylinder and piston?
Click to expand...

I have to get a compression tester. Scuffing is on the piston only, but there was enough to trap the lower ring causing it to break when I attempted to remove it.
There is a very noticeable increase in resistance to motor rotation when I put in the spark plug so I assumed there was compression. Maybe not enough.
I will try to run the engine w/o the muffler when I get the replacement ring and reassemble it. Thanks


#9

C

CharlieH

CharlieH said:
I have to get a compression tester. Scuffing is on the piston only, but there was enough to trap the lower ring causing it to break when I attempted to remove it.
There is a very noticeable increase in resistance to motor rotation when I put in the spark plug so I assumed there was compression. Maybe not enough.
I will try to run the engine w/o the muffler when I get the replacement ring and reassemble it. Thanks[/QUOTE

Well it's running!!!! I read in another place that reassembly should be done with gasket sealer due to warpage etc. I reassembled using Permatex 2. It started and is still running and my neighbor is happy. Thank you
Click to expand...


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