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Does this LB 10515 have a fuel filter?

#1

P

PRob39

It is a Lawn Boy - Gold Series Model 10515 - serial 3915106, 1993 model, F motor. Don't see a filter. It does have an altitude adjustment screw on the carb.
I bought it new in about '94. Lately it's been very hard to start. I service it every spring, clean exhaust ports, plug, air filter, blade. Have never cleaned the carb. I was thinking of trying that first. Any suggestions? Would change the fuel filter if I could find it. During its life I have gone through 3 ignition modules (in the first year) and replaced the drive belt. Still runs strong once it gets warmed up.

Paul


#2

A

(Account Closed)

Part #18:

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...00001-3999999/engine-fuel-tank-blade-assembly

AND part #15:
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...r-1993-sn-3900001-3999999/carburetor-assembly

It's the same part # and likely just ONE filter inside the fuel line



*You can click back (this IS your exact mower) and look up other parts as well:
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...r-1993-sn-3900001-3999999/carburetor-assembly


#3

V

viperv10

Hi Paul, welcome to the forum. That is a real good mower you have there. Yes your carburetor should have a tiny screen filter stuck inside the inlet to the carburetor when you pull off the fuel hose. You can blow it out with compressed air or spray it good with carb cleaner. Since your mower is that old it wouldn't hurt to take your carb off and clean it out. If you feel comfortable doing that. If you have never done it before you should take a couple close up pictures of the carb so you can put it back together right and get the throttle linkage back on right. I'm sure that there are some others on this forum that can tell you step by step on the proper way to clean a carb. Good luck!
Jerry


#4

P

PRob39

Thanks Scott. I didn't know about Jacks. Newbie. Will I need a new one or can I clean the old one?


#5

P

PRob39

viperv10 said:
Hi Paul, welcome to the forum. That is a real good mower you have there. Yes your carburetor should have a tiny screen filter stuck inside the inlet to the carburetor when you pull off the fuel hose. You can blow it out with compressed air or spray it good with carb cleaner. Since your mower is that old it wouldn't hurt to take your carb off and clean it out. If you feel comfortable doing that. If you have never done it before you should take a couple close up pictures of the carb so you can put it back together right and get the throttle linkage back on right. I'm sure that there are some others on this forum that can tell you step by step on the proper way to clean a carb. Good luck!
Jerry
Click to expand...

Thanks viperv10. Excellent information. I think I'll clean the filter and see how she runs then. If no improvement I'll tackle removing and cleaning the carb.


#6

R

Rivets

The screen is removable. Go to this site and you can get a parts breakdown of the carb, which will tell you where it is located. https://www.lawnboy.com/en/customer-support


#7

J

jp1961

Hello,

Low compression and leaking crankcase seals could also be the culprit for hard to start.

Regards

Jeff


#8

A

(Account Closed)

PRob39 said:
Thanks Scott. Your welcome..I didn't know about Jacks. Newbie. Will I need a new one or can I clean the old one?
Click to expand...

You can clean the old one. Carb cleaner, once off, works fine..

If you print out a pic of the carb, it's very easy to clean.

The bolt that holds the float bowl on, once removed will drop the bowl. The inside of the bowl will be a good tell tale the condition of the carb (IE see pic below of a varnished up carb one of my customers gave me).

That float bowl gasket may or may not "survive" after the bowl is off so if you can get a new one before hand would be suggested..

Pull the float pin, float and needle. Then start cleaning all metal orifices with carb cleaner, anything around RUBBER, I use brake cleaner as it's NOT nearly as hard on the rubber. If there's an orifice, cleaner should blow thru and come out somewhere else.

For difficult cold starts, the end of the carb nearest the air filter should have an orifice or two for cold starts, pay close attention to those especially when cleaning.

If you have access to an Ultra Sonic Cleaner, that'd make cleaning much easier and more thorough. A spray thru the orifices are still needed...

A customers carb, varnished up, before Sonic cleaning:


Same carb, Sonic cleaned (No additional help from me):


#9

P

PRob39

jp1961 said:
Hello,

Low compression and leaking crankcase seals could also be the culprit for hard to start.

Regards

Jeff
Click to expand...

Thanks for the good info Jeff. Will keep it in mind.


#10

P

PRob39

SRTsFZ6 said:
You can clean the old one. Carb cleaner, once off, works fine..

If you print out a pic of the carb, it's very easy to clean.

The bolt that holds the float bowl on, once removed will drop the bowl. The inside of the bowl will be a good tell tale the condition of the carb (IE see pic below of a varnished up carb one of my customers gave me).

That float bowl gasket may or may not "survive" after the bowl is off so if you can get a new one before hand would be suggested..

Pull the float pin, float and needle. Then start cleaning all metal orifices with carb cleaner, anything around RUBBER, I use brake cleaner as it's NOT nearly as hard on the rubber. If there's an orifice, cleaner should blow thru and come out somewhere else.

For difficult cold starts, the end of the carb nearest the air filter should have an orifice or two for cold starts, pay close attention to those especially when cleaning.

If you have access to an Ultra Sonic Cleaner, that'd make cleaning much easier and more thorough. A spray thru the orifices are still needed...

A customers carb, varnished up, before Sonic cleaning:


Same carb, Sonic cleaned (No additional help from me):
Click to expand...

Wow, that carb was a mess. Hope mine isn't that bad but will find out soon.
Thanks,
Paul


#11

P

PRob39

OK, finally got some decent weather so tore into the carb. Bowl was quite clean as were all the other parts in the carb. Cleaned everything anyway and reassembled. Used old gaskets since they looked fine. Long story short, it now leaks gas very badly out the hole next to the air filter (air intake, choke?). I suppose there is a problem with the needle valve or float but I didn't see anything and thought I put it back together the way I found it. The needle valve just slides into a slot in the plastic float (didn't see a clip). The needle valve is all metal (no rubber parts that I saw). I don't remember if there was anything in the needle valve seat that I might have missed or lost. Anyway, I'm really bummed out. At nearly 80 years old I just don't have the energy for this stuff anymore. Anyone who lives close enough to me to pick it up can have it free (Carbondale, IL). You can contact me at "robinson@geo.siu.edu". I would like it to have a good home. Thinking of buying a Toro.
Thank all you fine folks for your advice.
Paul


#12

tom3

tom3

Should have no trouble giving it away, some demand for those. There is a rubber seat in the well for the float needle, probably fell out or just shot. Today's gas is not good on those.


#13

P

PRob39

tom3 said:
Should have no trouble giving it away, some demand for those. There is a rubber seat in the well for the float needle, probably fell out or just shot. Today's gas is not good on those.
Click to expand...

Thanks tom3! I must have blown the rubber seat out while cleaning. It wasn't leaking before so it must have been OK. I knew there was a good chance I would screw it up but I didn't have much to lose. I got 25 years out of it so that's not too bad. It did run for a few seconds so I know it's not dead. Hope someone wants it. Carbondale is just 15 miles off I57.


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