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I'm wondering if the ignition switch needs to be in the on position to pull start a True Value rear engine rider with 10.5hp I/C motor, no battery will be installed either. I just ordered the pull start kit and carburetor so just don't want any surprises when I try to start it. The switch is beat up so if it does need to be on I want to make sure I go buy another before installing those 2 parts. The mower has the button under the seat that stops the motor if weight is removed, will this still kill the engine when using pull start with no battery connected?

I will eventually get the electric start working but I want to try the pull start before I start dumping parts and money into the electric start components since I'm not exactly sure what's wrong with it. The guy who gave me this mower says the motor will spin if relay is jumped but won't fire, I have not tested this for myself yet.

I would say yes, because the key switch is the kill switch for the engine. So it has to be ON to open the kill circuit.

ILENGINE said:

I would say yes, because the key switch is the kill switch for the engine. So it has to be ON to open the kill circuit.

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Thanks for the reply.

What do I need to do to bypass the ignition being on in order to start? I'm sure I can find a suitable ignition at tractor supply but I can always choke to kill it until I put a new ignition on.

My double pedal Snapper rear engine rider is also electric start and has a 11hp I/C with pull start and that starts without the ignition being turned on, I actually don't even have the key for it. Maybe someone already bypassed it?

I just received the carburetor in the mail, instead of starting a new thread I'll ask here first and see if anyone replies.

The carb instructions tell me to remove detent spring for Choke a Matic, if the mower has the choke on the engine throttle/speed control (rabbit/turtle) would this be considered Choke a Matic or manual choke? Thanks!

That would be considered manual choke.

ILENGINE said:

That would be considered manual choke.

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I really appreciate the help you've been.

I do have one last question (for now). The carb came with a gasket of course but also a small black hollow plastic piece, I'm wondering what this is. If you're not sure what I'm talking about I'll take a pic and upload it. I've never had to replace a Briggs carb before so it's a little new for me.

That insulator block goes between the carb and cylinder block...........