Dixon transaxle help.

BrianSki

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This is the showing the old and new filter.
z old and new rsz.JPG

I started to clean one of the old filters. You can with a few cans of spray. The stuff is thick and slimy. If you can clean them it will only cost you oil, carb cleaner and your time. I tried with one of the old ones. Hope this helps someone.
z filter cleaned rsz.JPG
 

BrianSki

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Another couple FYIs. You should fill the trans about 1-1/2 from the top of the fill hole.

I am pretty sure the fitting on top of the transmission is a 6AN ORB. I ordered 2 new ones with a barbed fitting to replace the broken plastic ones.

To purge the transaxles, raise the rear wheels off the ground. Put the transaxles in bypass. With engine running slow, move the arms back and forth 5-6 times slowly. Then put the transaxles in drive (non bypass) and move the handles back and forth slowly another 5 or 6 times. Check fill level again after.
 

bertsmobile1

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You are now in real trouble as that case is filthy on the outside
These transmissions are assembled in clean rooms because dust you can not see will wreck them in no time flat
Your chances of getting it back together without contamination is about the same as winning every state lottery twice .
FWIW before I touch a case screw, trannies get blown clean, degreased, pressure washed , soda blasted, low pressure washed & blown dry .
 

BrianSki

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You are now in real trouble as that case is filthy on the outside
These transmissions are assembled in clean rooms because dust you can not see will wreck them in no time flat
Your chances of getting it back together without contamination is about the same as winning every state lottery twice .
FWIW before I touch a case screw, trannies get blown clean, degreased, pressure washed , soda blasted, low pressure washed & blown dry .
Thanks for your helpful ideas. Any life I get out of it is more than it had the way it was. Since the transmissions are not available, it was worth fixing it.
 

bertsmobile1

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Look at the holes for bolting the transmission to the mower,
Note there are two sets, a narrow set for lawn tractors & a wide set for garden tractors .
Start to make you think ?
Much like engines, the mounting points are just about universal so they are all interchangeable to some extent .
It is just a matter of modifing the controls on your mower to suit the transmission.
The only thing you can really not do is fit a RER to a tractor because it might run backwards.
I have done a couple of incompatiable transplants by replacing most of the complex controls with gear change cables from manual gear boxes scrounged from the fleet of old delivery vans.
Every box is just about the same
A short lever that moves the swash plate to change directions & speed plus another lever to work the brake & a bypass valve
Most input shafts are the same size although some are splined while others are keyed bit it is not all that difficult if you sit down & work out what has to move which way & how far
And funny enough most drive pulleys are almost the same diameter .

Easy for techs because we pull these things apart on a daily basis so don't get hung up on what is right for my mower .
It is only a mower not a rocket ship , formula 1 race car or any other high stressed high precision machine.
 
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