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I was mowing when my RZT L just stop moving forward..................in fact it wouldn't move backward either. The steering levers feel as if I'm trying to push them through cold honey. Move them in all directions and nothing happens. Engine runs fine, blades engage and disengage just fine. Sure could use some suggestions as to where to start looking to solve this problem.

Hydrostat belt either came off or broke. Need to look up under the rear of the mower, above the deck belt

Hmmmmm. Thought there was only one belt on the mower. DUH !!! Shows you what I know ! Thanks, I'll check it tomorrow. Now to get in the manual and figure out how to get to it.

Look under the seat and give us your model and serial number, so we can help you with references if needed.

Cab Cadet also provides free manual downloads that cover lots of repair information but often has some missing segments.

Sorry I'm just now getting back to this. Had Dr.s appts all day.

The only thing I found under the seat was RZT 50............and a plate showing model numbers for things like spark plugs, grass catchers, etc., etc., etc. But couldn't find anything looking like a serial number. Couldn't find one on my shippers bill of lading. Couldn't find it in my owner's operating manual either. Doesn't make any sense, but I couldn't find it anywhere.

You are correct, that is a part listing label you saw, I had to look at mine just a minute ago. The product ID label is actually on the metal seat bottom, left side. Easy to miss if you don't flip the seat far enough.

Here is a picture:

Thanks, I'll look there.

I've got my seat covered with a Black garbage bag because our property is so dusty. Keeping the seat clean enough to sit on. So that's why I didn't notice the serial number under there.
Any way.................the SER # is 17AFCACP056. Don't know if that is a 0 or an O.

Glad you found it.

With VIN and PIN numbers it is always a zero "0".

Here is a parts diagram:


These can be interesting to put a drive belt on. Be sure the cooling fans on each drive motor is good and be sure to replace the tensioner idler for the drive belt. Just doing the belt, will be practice for going back and doing the pulley in a very short time. (likely with another new belt)

You will have to raise the rear of the machine, then remove the wheels for access.

If you are not mechanically inclined and have the tools, then I suggest a reputable shop or a competent mechanic who knows there way around riders and zero turn equipment.

Cub Cadet does not show a drive belt replacement procedure that I could find. The owner's manual only shows deck belt replacement. Maybe someone else has the drive belt replacement information here on the site.

Best of luck

Thanks. That parts diagram isn't going to be much help is it ??? I've replaced the deck belt before............and also at a later date, the spindles. I'm 80 years old and getting to where getting down on the ground like I'll need to do is difficult. But so is coming up with the funds to pay someone to do it for me. I've watched a few videos on YouTube University and they didn't pull the wheels. Why are you suggesting that ???

How do I check the functioning of the fans ?

Chris623 said:

Thanks. That parts diagram isn't going to be much help is it ??? I've replaced the deck belt before............and also at a later date, the spindles. I'm 80 years old and getting to where getting down on the ground like I'll need to do is difficult. But so is coming up with the funds to pay someone to do it for me. I've watched a few videos on YouTube University and they didn't pull the wheels. Why are you suggesting that ???

How do I check the functioning of the fans ?

Click to expand...

I normally jack up the rear wheels and put blocks under them to hold the mower up to give clearance without the jack being in the way. The pto clutch will have to come off which may some special methods to keep the engine from turning while removing the clutch bolt from the crankshaft or the use of an impact gun.

Fan function would be to make sure the blades are not broken off or badly worn.

Hi Chris623,

At 80 years of age I don't think I would attempt this repair. I'm 61 and I don't rush around like I used to.

An experienced shop would be a good choice.

I jack up the rear and pull the wheels as a personal preference on this model. I also have a Z-Force 48 that the wheels have to come off and the lower transmission mount plate has to be lowered on, that one is much more work.

Yes, I know the shaft can't be allowed to turn. I can handle that. I have two 13" rims from my trailer that will work nicely, I think, to keep the back end up. Just don't know if that will be high enough......................but guess I'll find out now won't I ???

I'm in the gym three days a week lifting and doing cardio. I'm not like most 80 year old folks. It's the heat that gets to me............but I am aware of my age and try not to bite off more than I can chew. (climbed an 80' radio tower to install a 32' Yagi antenna two years ago, so I'm not afraid of work) But I'm on a fixed income and take very few things to someone else for repair.