Cub cadet 2166 spark problems

[StarTech]

Hammer, Sorry but the 12 707 01-S does not use the SAM module as it is now an one piece system.

Kohler TT-5243 DSAI Conversion Kit

As the plug wire being shorter MDI 32 707 01-S, I would just change it out with a long one but that is just me.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Well i am wrong again. First time in the last half hour. Thanks for the info. Looks like the local Kohler shop needs to see that. They are the ones who had me use the kit for the twin and told me there was no kit for the single cylinder engines. Gonna print that off and show them. I hope it is better than the original system. Going back to my nap now.

 

[StarTech]

BTW I did post an incorrect PN which I have since corrected.

For Napping it is raining here so I think I take a nap too. SUrew don't want the two generators here. Boy I love it when I repair a unit and they don't get used for several years and just have to all that work all over again.

Yes the hi tension lead change out I have learn how to do it so it is now second nature for to replace leads especially those that mice have chewed on.

 

[Tim7791]

If the CH16 has the DSAI (ASAM or DSAM) ignition there will be a black plastic box on the side of the engine. That box or the coil can be bad. The 12 070 01 s is the original DSAI coil and works with the "smart spark" module. To upgrade to the MDI (magneto discharge ignition) as far as i know kohler does not have a kit for the CH16 The ones i have done I had to get the 32 707 01 s kit for a twin cylinder engine. The plug wire is shorter than the coil wire for the CH16. If you reroute it it will work.
Both of the DSAI systems are notorious for failing with intermitent spark. Also, if smart spark module loses power intermittently from bad relay contacts the engine will die like you turned the key off but will usually start right back up.

Yes thank you I know about the Spark Advance Module (S.A.M.) and it's location I hadn't heard of anyway to home check/test it like mentioned above or what exactly to get for conversion if bad. paid 250$ for this nice looking machine with a lightly used Cub cadet plow told it had Sat run recently ( guys mechanic had couple jumper wires in the harness ) leaking at PTO seal I can fix that but hadn't anticipated running into these gremlins I'm getting on here trying to get better ideas trying not to throw money at the problem cuz I don't really have it for one but I would get my damn machine going just More costly and a bit more slowly than I could with a bit more knowledge from those More knowledgeable of what these machines are and do

 

[Tim7791]

Up above I meant oil light not turning on every time the key gets turned forward a click which is another thing leading me towards ignition switch hard to be sure at this point didn't get to mess with it today but the amount of crusty surface rust and stuff I had to cut through on the flywheel I'm sure it wasn't relaying a good signal to the ignition system

 

[StarTech]

If it is at the ignition switch it can be a bad terminal in the connector housing. The F56 (GM, Delphi) style terminal has a spring type contact and the hinge point tends to breaks leading to loose contacts.

 

[Tim7791]

If it is at the ignition switch it can be a bad terminal in the connector housing. The F56 (GM, Delphi) style terminal has a spring type contact and the hinge point tends to breaks leading to loose contacts.

My thoughts about the ignition switch was even jumping with other battery and cables at the solenoid with key on position was if I didn't make sure the oil light was on,on dash it wasn't firing when I clicked it around got the light on one times I might've had to pull and put the fuse back before I got its oil light to come back IDK if I had to or just that's what I did trying stuff cuz I was hurrying a little cuz I was behind and just wanted to do anything to try to get to start before I left lol

 

[Tim7791]

Got behind never finished my Cubby too much going on this summer but as far as the ignition goes I was lookingat replacing the ignition key switch to a 6,7 or 8 tab toggle like I saw at AutoZone or a couple toggles to power it's electrics to The run position and then run a push button for the starter lead seems like a simple enough idea to make happen inexpensively (15$) for the Fancy toggle and already have the push button and for future ease of use if I really wanted to get Fancy like worried about theft could buy a key fob deal like New cars have where it'll only start when fobs in range for 10-15$? but about to get back to it just got New tester so I could try the sam test thing and whatever else you guys mentioned I'm tired other ideas aren't coming to me but wanta get it setup before winter so I can push my driveway clear thanks for the advice guys