Craftsman Lawn Tractor Mod # 917.275684 24hp intek Mod 445677 TYPE NUMBER 0413-E1

[vahawkeye]

My first post on this site. I am having difficulty with charging system on the craftsman that I bought new in 2005. I had it in the shop and they replaced the alternator and regulator 19 months ago. I should have taken it back as it was not charging like when it was new. I used it all last summer and it would start until the last time I used it in the fall 2020 for leaf pickup. Watched youtube video and tested the regulator and it was at about 7volts which it should be about 13 to 14 volts. I tested the output on the alternator and it was 27 volts at idle and 32 volts full throttle. I ordered new regulator part # 84907 genuine BS part which should be compatible as the alternator was part # 5928030. Got the new regulator today and it didn't fix the issue as the voltage out of the regulator is still around 7 volts. I have attached the wiring diagram which was in the manual and if someone could suggest a next move. This particular lawn tractor has three different configurations alternator/regulator listed on the Briggs and Stratton charts for for this engine. I am wondering if I have the correct regulator? for that alternator. Has anyone worked on this engine electrical system before? Is there a stamp on the engine with it's model number? I tested the continuity from for the wire which goes to the battery from the regulator and it passed. Any help would be appreciated.

I did a trickle charge/repair of the battery and it holds steady at 11.8 volts which I know is low and I will replace it once I get the charging system correct.

 

[Rivets]

Section 7 of this manual will tell you how to identify and test your charging system.

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[bertsmobile1]

Check the ground connection to the rectifier.
The wire breaks internally and of course the body, which is ground is screwed into the plastic dip stick tube so gets no ground if the wire is broken or not there.
And remember the wire has to be connected at both ends .
I like to use 2 ground wires, one off the starter mounting bolt and another off the rear cowl mounting bolt, But I am anal about ground connections .

 

[slomo]

Check the ground connection to the rectifier.
The wire breaks internally and of course the body, which is ground is screwed into the plastic dip stick tube so gets no ground if the wire is broken or not there.
And remember the wire has to be connected at both ends .
I like to use 2 ground wires, one off the starter mounting bolt and another off the rear cowl mounting bolt, But I am anal about ground connections .

Love it all Bert. Great wisdom there. Grounds are so over looked....

slomo

 

[vahawkeye]

Thanks for all the info. I am not a mechanic but I am retired and have plenty of time on my hands so I will work through this.

 

[vahawkeye]

Check the ground connection to the rectifier.
The wire breaks internally and of course the body, which is ground is screwed into the plastic dip stick tube so gets no ground if the wire is broken or not there.
And remember the wire has to be connected at both ends .
I like to use 2 ground wires, one off the starter mounting bolt and another off the rear cowl mounting bolt, But I am anal about ground connections .

Thanks for your info. The regulator is mounted with two metal screws on to a metal plate. The metal plate is attached to the engine block. The regulator has one red wire with red connector and and two yellow wires with a white connector. I took the multimeter and placed black probe on neg battery post and using the red probe I checked the plate. red wire between the ignition, the solenoid, starter and the the red wire connector at regulator connection and the red wire connection at the dip stick. All toned without any issue. Not sure where to go from here.

 

[Rivets]

Did you go through the testing procedure described in the manual I posted?

 

[vahawkeye]

Did you go through the testing procedure described in the manual I posted?

Thanks again for your help as I am not a mechanic but did repair computers for several years....I read through section 7 which show the steps, however it appears the Briggs Stratton has changed colors of the wires and connectors from the stator to the rectifier. The double wires from the stator are yellow and the connector is white, same as the double wires and entering the rectifier. Your manual doesn't have that color combination for stator. The rectifier on my tractor also has a single red wire and connecter is the which is the same in the manual you posted. I will be testing it tomorrow as I am running errands today. I will let you know tomorrow how this goes.

 

[Rivets]

Wire colors in this case have no meaning If you understand what you are looking for.