I just replaced the primer bulb, spark plug, put new fuel in it, used a starting fluid that you add to your fuel that is made by stabil, and took the carb apart and changed the gasket at the end of last season. I got nothing.
I changed the gasket back at the end of last season and ran the mower out of fuel after that. I've now had the carb apart today again to double check my work and I am not finding any issues inside. Everything is clean and the gasket I installed is seated properly.
I pull and pull and it doesn't do anything except begin to spit an oily gassy mixture out of the muffler. When I noticed this I took the plug out and cleaned it with carb cleaner, left the plug out and pulled the starting cord about 10 times to try to clear anything and redistribute whatever this oily mixture is.
I can verify that the oil is good and is not over or under filled. Last time I changed it I followed the exact Briggs instructions from their web site.
Briggs is telling me I need to replace the carb. I can't believe that on a mower that has not been used heavily and is less than 3 years old that I would possibly need to replace the carb, that seems silly and doesn't make sense.
Took the carb off again. Cleaned it again, very thoroughly. Made sure that there was free flow of carb cleaner through all holes in the carb.
Put to back together. It fired right up and ran for 20 minutes, I got 7/8ths of the way done with my lawn and it quit out on me again. I thought that it was outta gas, but when I checked there was still gas in there.
So that tells me something is getting stuck or clogged but I can't tell what since everything is clean in there. I know there's a small fuel downpipe that comes off the carb to suck up the fuel, is it possible that there's enough debris there causing it even though I couldn't see any?
there are 3 things to do in rebuilding a carb.. in your case it wiould be good to follow these 3.. make sure that the main jet is clean.. replace the carb seat. and make sure the rubber seat is pushed all the way down.. this will allow the carb float to be level.. one more thing, if your carb is a niki, replace the carb.. if its a walbro. it can be rebuilt..
When I had the carb out yesterday carb cleaner was freely flowing through all tubes. Screens looked clean. Is there a way to remove the gas sucker tube from the carb itself?
replace the diaphram between the carb and tank. if there is a slight pin hole it wont run right. its like a two dollar part at the local mower store. hope this helps
Yes, the gasket was replaced (I assume thats what you mean). If i remember there's a gasket and a diaphragm that is in the kit. I had it out again last evening and it all looked ok. I'll replace it again and clean everything out again.
The diaphram has 2 parts, make sure that its placed in the way you take it off, when you go to tighten it down, start at the top left looking down at the tank, then tighten each screw clock wise, making sure the diaphram does not bunch up, its agood idea to replace the o-ring on the tube, push the tank all the way on and butt it up tight, if not it will sputter and pop.. if it does that, its letting air to bypass..
When you installed the carb on the tank, did you make sure that the diaphragm is next to the carb and the gasket is next to the tank? If you did this right try this. While the engine is running spray carb cleaner around the carb/tank gasket. If the engine speed changes you have a warped tank allowing an air leak and rough running. Also, Briggs is correct this time, ethanol is creating hell on today fuel systems. I average at least one fuel problem a day that I can attribute to bad gas. Most people don't realize that todays ethanol fuels start going bad after thirty (30) days. If you can try to run high octane ethanol free fuel in all your small engines. It will solve a lot of problems and is cheap insurance.
I will give that a try. I already run premium in my mower, always have. I don't know of anywhere around that sells gas which doesn't have ethanol in it. I'll have to research.
