BX1500 starter problems again, and again

[neighborbill]

I am having a weird problem which should be simple to fix but its' not.
Starting the Kubota (trying to start) sometimes yes some times no.
A couple of years ago I replaced the starter motor and the attached solenoid. Not long after, the problem started up again. Click! but no start. Click! and it starts. I replaced the solenoid because the starter motor would spin when I jumped it but the solenoid wasn't kicking in, even with the 12 volts applied to it. Worked for about a year. Now it is doing the same thing again, so I replaced solenoid again. Worked again until now. Click! Click! Start!
I tore apart the last solenoid and the contacts were just fine. That wasn't the problem, so I assumed it must have been the coil.
I also replaced the starter switch. That's not the problem either.
Why is this happening. This shouldn't be so complicated.
I'm wondering if the solenoids were OK and something else is giving me this problem. What could it be?

 

[Auto Doc's]

When it does that lightly tap on the tail end side of the starter with a small hammer and see if it starts cranking. If it does the brushes are sticking from dust. It may work for a while consistently after that.

 

[Tiger Small Engine]

I am having a weird problem which should be simple to fix but its' not.
Starting the Kubota (trying to start) sometimes yes some times no.
A couple of years ago I replaced the starter motor and the attached solenoid. Not long after, the problem started up again. Click! but no start. Click! and it starts. I replaced the solenoid because the starter motor would spin when I jumped it but the solenoid wasn't kicking in, even with the 12 volts applied to it. Worked for about a year. Now it is doing the same thing again, so I replaced solenoid again. Worked again until now. Click! Click! Start!
I tore apart the last solenoid and the contacts were just fine. That wasn't the problem, so I assumed it must have been the coil.
I also replaced the starter switch. That's not the problem either.
Why is this happening. This shouldn't be so complicated.
I'm wondering if the solenoids were OK and something else is giving me this problem. What could it be?

Also check the grounds, double check battery terminals for tightness and clean if needed. Check all terminals. Check trigger wire to starter with multimeter for voltage with key in start position.

 

[Auto Doc's]

Hello neighborbill,

To add to what Tiger said,

Check for any rusty connections. They can be tight and "look good" but rust will not conduct enough battery power, especially when placed under a heavy load like a starter trying to turn the engine.

Battery cable crimp areas are another issue to watch out for. Age and moisture will create corrosion down inside the terminals.

I suggest you get a multimeter and conduct what is known as voltage drop testing while cranking the engine. Current has to be flowing to catch a voltage drop. Simply Ohm testing is not a voltage drop test.

There are lots of examples of this online for Automotive AG and small engine equipment applications.

 

[neighborbill]

When it does that lightly tap on the tail end side of the starter with a small hammer and see if it starts cranking. If it does the brushes are sticking from dust. It may work for a while consistently after that.

What do you consider the "Tail End Side"? The plunger side or the contact connection side?

 

[neighborbill]

Hello neighborbill,

To add to what Tiger said,

Check for any rusty connections. They can be tight and "look good" but rust will not conduct enough battery power, especially when placed under a heavy load like a starter trying to turn the engine.

Battery cable crimp areas are another issue to watch out for. Age and moisture will create corrosion down inside the terminals.

I suggest you get a multimeter and conduct what is known as voltage drop testing while cranking the engine. Current has to be flowing to catch a voltage drop. Simply Ohm testing is not a voltage drop test.

There are lots of examples of this online for Automotive AG and small engine equipment applications.

No rust.
I didn't try the load test as you suggested. I know the 12 volts is getting there at starting side.
Today it is working just fine.
It's a diesel and it takes a bit more to turn over. I think I'll try a load test on the battery by it self. I have a resistance tester for that.

 

[Auto Doc's]

The end opposite of where the starter is bolted to the engine/ transmission. The starter motor brushes are located inside. Be "firm but gentle" when you tap on the starter motor.

 

[Auto Doc's]

The end opposite of where the starter is bolted to the engine/ transmission. The starter motor brushes are located inside. Be "firm but gentle" when you tap on the starter motor.

 

[Auto Doc's]

No rust.
I didn't try the load test as you suggested. I know the 12 volts is getting there at starting side.
Today it is working just fine.
It's a diesel and it takes a bit more to turn over. I think I'll try a load test on the battery by it self. I have a resistance tester for that.

Just keep in mind that Voltage is potential and Amperage is power.

A battery can read 12 Volts on a meter but still not have enough Amperage to do the job of cranking the engine over.

If you have to crank it for extended periods of time to get it started, it may be wearing the battery and starter down. Clean air and fuel filters are critical items on diesel engines.

On a diesel, it is critical for the fuel system to work correctly. Old fuel filters are the number one problem. Second would be the glow plugs or grid heater operation, they are designed to heat the air being draws into the engine.