Briggs & Stratton 8250 storm responder carb bowl held on with Phillips head screws???

[Pepsidrivah]

Generator unit is about 14 years old Briggs & Stratton Storm responder 8250. Always run clean gas through the unit and use stabilizer. Change it every 6 months. This year it had all the signs of crap in the carburetor. I went to take the bowl off to give it a good cleaning and it's held on by Phillips head screws? They're not tough enough screws to handle the unscrewing process. Suggestions? Thanks for any ideas in getting this bowl off without doing major damage!

 

[slomo]

Powerbuilt 1/2" Drive Impact Driver Kit

 

[Rivets]

Three things that have bailed me out when I run into this problem with Phillips screws.
1. Make sure you have the right size driver. Most often people use a driver which is too small.
2. I dip my driver into some very fine lapping compound, which gives improved gripping power.
3. Soaking each screw in thread buster for 30 minutes can help break the bond caused by electrolysis.
PS: I’m assuming you have the carb removed from the engine.

 

[ILENGINE]

If the carb is a Nikki or Mukuni carb they are NOT Phillips head screws they are JIS screws. Indicated by a little dot next to the X shape.

 

[Auto Doc's]

Hello P.,

Hopefully the carburetor has been removed, if not you are fighting a losing battle.

A few good strikes with a hammer and a regular Phillips screwdriver normally shocks them so they come out.
The idea is to not grind out the slots by using forced hand pressure methods.

Word to the wise: You need to mix the stabilizer in the fuel can by lightly shaking it before refilling. Don't just pour stabilizer of any kind in the tank of any machine. Most people miss this step.

 

[Scrubcadet10]

Im usually able to grip the heads with Irwin vice grips and get them out that way

 

[StarTech]

One way to get these screws is take a long solid bit of the appropriate size. Mount the carb in a vise with protection for the carb ends. I use long rods to prevent slippage in the vise. Now place the bit in place and strike the end of the bit with a heavy hammer. This produces the shock that will usually break the static bond of the screw to the threads. Then you should be able to loosen and remove the screws.

And they are Japanese standard screws [JIS] which has a different Phillips design. Usually the bottom the cross is more flatten and slightly less in depth. This why some Phillips screwdriver has the tip ground down.

Btw JIS screws specs are applied to other metric screws such the ones with hex heads, commonly called bolts. Which means a lot of the time the hex is smaller. This has been a great help on Kawasaki v twins muffler screws here as a 12mm hex is a lot easier to remove and install vs the standard 13mm hex.

This just like where last week I replaced the 1/2 hex head 5/16 screws on the Hydro Gear where I had to thin the wall of a 1/2 socket to get them out. I used a 12 point flange version of the 5/16 screw and it is much easier to install and will be for the next tech to remove.

 

[Forest#2]

Post up a picture of the bottom of the carb bowl showing the screws?

I suspect you have the JIS (Japan Inbred Screw) type.
I use the methods mentioned in post #7 and I also have a !/4 inch drive ratchet and extension and the bit held in a 1/4 socket if you do not have the correct adapter and the carb mounted in a vise where I can push down with force so as to get a good feel and do not let the bit slip and mangle the screw head during the FIRST ATTEMPT.

 

[ILENGINE]

I use one of these https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-Megad...1761314041&sprefix=vesse,aps,151&sr=8-41&th=1

 

[Rivets]

For those who don’t know, there are 2 types of 4 sided screwdrivers. One is called a Reed and there other is called a Phillips. Difference is that the Reed style comes to a point and the Phillips has a flat end. Most people don’t know this ( even techs) and don’t use the correct one for the job.