I'm in the need to have both valves removed. I successfully removed the retainer and valve spring.
The valve now moves up and down freely but I can't remove it from the block. The end of the stem "hits" some metal, this is at least how it sounds.
Could it be the end of the stem hitting the edge of the valve seal? I have tried to pull on the stem while turning and it comes up just a tiny bit. However, I do get metal shavings at the end of the valve stem so I'm a bit reluctant to proceed without knowing if I'm causing some damage.
#2
StarTech
look for a ridge where the retainer was and file it down.
I feel quite stupid; what a great tip. Valve has been removed effortless.
Hopefully I didn't damaged the valve guide too much while trying to pull the valve with some force....
I was expecting some brass guides but it just looks the stem sits in the block? I feel some side play; not sure if this is acceptable?
#4
cpurvis
A machine shop can install bronze (brass?) guides. Briggs used to sell them; I don't know about now.
My Briggs MAX series was like this. I did as StarTech said. Didn't want to jack up my valve guides. Worked great too. Took a small file to the retainer area as mentioned. Don't need to remove a lot of material. Just enough to get it out safely. Remember the block is aluminum.
The guides are still available. You need some special Briggs tools. 2 reamers a driver and a centering cone. A shop should have these tools. Takes about 10 minutes to install the guides. The valves need to be lapped in after that.
The guides are still available. You need some special Briggs tools. 2 reamers a driver and a centering cone. A shop should have these tools. Takes about 10 minutes to install the guides. The valves need to be lapped in after that.
Usually takes me longer but there is disassembly and re-assembly that I counting.
Valve guides depends if the engine already had them installed or not. Some of these engine had replaceable bushings, others just had guides that were part of the casting.
As for the tools; hopefully a shop has the 1/4" and 5/16" tool sets as they are NLA from Briggs now.
#8
Hammermechanicman
I have the tools but haven't used them for years. Seems like every 5hp briggs i see has a pile of rust for a gas tank. I quit trying to save them. Too many hours customers don't want to pay for.
The amount of work it takes to prep a rusty tank for the liner still is more than folks will pay. A new chonda clone is cheaper
#11
StarTech
Well I both sets about 12 yrs ago. I have never used the 5/16 set to date but I have use the 1/4" set a fair amount. Of course I had add one reamer to the set due after market when they were available were a 32nd larger. I now make my own 1/4 id brass bushings since Briggs decided to get ridiculous on the price for the brass bushings. I still do 1/4 valve guides every so often.
And Slomo that fuel tank liner is going to do no good when the reservoir cup is rusted out. Besides a lot these tank have anti splash items inside them that must be removed to even try to seal the inside surface after a rust removal procedure is performed.
As Hammer said the amount of work is not worth when got to bill a customer for it. I go one 3 quart tank left in stock and I saving it for my own use. IT cost near 95 usd from my Briggs distributor and it was one of last ones available.
#12
Hammermechanicman
I still have 2 engines from the racing days. Used but good tanks. Like star saving for my own use. Got a new tank from a 3 hp but is the old style. I think i stil have about 4 or 5 1/4" valve guides.
#13
Scrubcadet10
you'd think as much aftermarket stuff the Chinese make, they'd make a tank for the 5hp briggs that are always NLA and rusted to hell and back. heck, if i had the know how i'd get with someone who has the capability and start producing them.... but i'm sure there are patent issues etc with briggs,.. i bet.. maybe.. probably. who knows.
#14
Hammermechanicman
Before ethanol the tanks didn't seem to rust like they do now. Since the ethanol attracts water it just trashes the steel tanks.
Tanks used to be mae from Tern Plate with is like tin plate but using lead a the coating
These are the tanks you find in the rusted out bodies of old flat head V 8 and while being a little rusty on the outside are perfect on the inside.
Then lead suddenly switched faith and became the spawn of the devil so they had to stop using it and switched to galvabond which is a zinc aluminium coating
Firstly it does crack a little at the bends and secondly it reacts with water to corrode away after which the steel rusts really quickly as the surface of the steel is active which was necessary to get the galvabond to bond .
Just another case of the EPA causing 100 times the amount of pollution by preventing a tiny bit of pollution which most times is in their imagination.
