You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Export thread
Anyone using a Air Filter Minder restriction meter on FX Kawasaki engine ?
#1
7394
7394
Curious as to what the peak water vacuum is in inches on your meter. And your engine size.
Yes I am planning to add a meter to my FX air box on my Kawasaki 651V
Thanks in advance for all & any replies.
Yes I am planning to add a meter to my FX air box on my Kawasaki 651V
Thanks in advance for all & any replies.
#2
D
DK35vince
D
DK35vince
Mine goes up to 8 in.
1-6 is in the green. 8 is red=change filter
That is on a FX 1000V.
1-6 is in the green. 8 is red=change filter
That is on a FX 1000V.
#3
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
The problem with them is people believe what they see without any conscious thought.
So if it is always reading in the green it must be good, except for perhaps the tear or the bit here the paper has come away from the glue.
They are really meant for things like road grinders and skid steers that work in very dusty conditions where you can clog a filter in a few hours.
So if it is always reading in the green it must be good, except for perhaps the tear or the bit here the paper has come away from the glue.
They are really meant for things like road grinders and skid steers that work in very dusty conditions where you can clog a filter in a few hours.
#4
7394
Thanks for the reply, did that come from factory with that restriction meter on it ? I think some Hustlers did come stock with meters, maybe some Scags as well ?
Bert- They are on many, many things, Big Rigs/excavators/air compressors, you name it. But point taken.
Kawasaki says an FX canister Air-filter should be able to go 200 hours, (depending on conditions). Biggest issue according to Kawasaki is owner always pulling out the canister filter to look at it, it can damage the seal & cause dust ingestion.
7394
Mine goes up to 8 in.
1-6 is in the green. 8 is red=change filter
That is on a FX 1000V.
Thanks for the reply, did that come from factory with that restriction meter on it ? I think some Hustlers did come stock with meters, maybe some Scags as well ?
The problem with them is people believe what they see without any conscious thought.
So if it is always reading in the green it must be good, except for perhaps the tear or the bit here the paper has come away from the glue.
They are really meant for things like road grinders and skid steers that work in very dusty conditions where you can clog a filter in a few hours.
Bert- They are on many, many things, Big Rigs/excavators/air compressors, you name it. But point taken.
Kawasaki says an FX canister Air-filter should be able to go 200 hours, (depending on conditions). Biggest issue according to Kawasaki is owner always pulling out the canister filter to look at it, it can damage the seal & cause dust ingestion.
#5
B
bertsmobile1
A friends son had a demolition company.
They had the same filter fitted to all of their equipment that had engines up to 2L on them then they went to the next size up.
The outers got changed daily regardless and sent off to be dry cleaned most of the inners were still original.
With every wash came a read out which gradually increased ( as the paper got thinner ) till they came back with a fail notice.
While he was away his ( not very practical ) partner decided to blow them clean with the air compressor.
The very next time they went in to be cleaned all of them failed as they were full of holes which even with a good loop I could not see.
So yes fit a meter but remember, new filters each season or when the hours are up.
B
bertsmobile1
Thanks for the reply, did that come from factory with that restriction meter on it ? I think some Hustlers did come stock with meters, maybe some Scags as well ?
Bert- They are on many, many things, Big Rigs/excavators/air compressors, you name it. But point taken.
Kawasaki says an FX canister Air-filter should be able to go 200 hours, (depending on conditions). Biggest issue according to Kawasaki is owner always pulling out the canister filter to look at it, it can damage the seal & cause dust ingestion.
A friends son had a demolition company.
They had the same filter fitted to all of their equipment that had engines up to 2L on them then they went to the next size up.
The outers got changed daily regardless and sent off to be dry cleaned most of the inners were still original.
With every wash came a read out which gradually increased ( as the paper got thinner ) till they came back with a fail notice.
While he was away his ( not very practical ) partner decided to blow them clean with the air compressor.
The very next time they went in to be cleaned all of them failed as they were full of holes which even with a good loop I could not see.
So yes fit a meter but remember, new filters each season or when the hours are up.
#6
D
DK35vince
Normal on my zero turn runs between 2 and 3 inches (even when the filter is new.)
Unless you are mowing dirt you should be able to run 200 hours on a filter. I ran 3 seasons ( around 70 per year) on the original filter. It was still only running around 3 inches on the gauge and still looked fine but I changed the filter anyway at around 180 - 200 hours. ( I don't blow my filters out, not worth risking damage to it IMO).
I pull my filter once per season to check it over and it looks fine (tap the filter on my hand to check for loose dirt and check the intake tube to see if any fine dust is getting by)
Under servicing a filter can cause problems, but over servicing when not needed also has the potential to let in unnecessary debris
D
DK35vince
It did come stock on my 2013 Hustler Super Z with the Kawasaki FX 1000v engine.Thanks for the reply, did that come from factory with that restriction meter on it ? I think some Hustlers did come stock with meters, maybe some Scags as well ?
Bert- They are on many, many things, Big Rigs/excavators/air compressors, you name it. But point taken.
Kawasaki says an FX canister Air-filter should be able to go 200 hours, (depending on conditions). Biggest issue according to Kawasaki is owner always pulling out the canister filter to look at it, it can damage the seal & cause dust ingestion.
Normal on my zero turn runs between 2 and 3 inches (even when the filter is new.)
Unless you are mowing dirt you should be able to run 200 hours on a filter. I ran 3 seasons ( around 70 per year) on the original filter. It was still only running around 3 inches on the gauge and still looked fine but I changed the filter anyway at around 180 - 200 hours. ( I don't blow my filters out, not worth risking damage to it IMO).
I pull my filter once per season to check it over and it looks fine (tap the filter on my hand to check for loose dirt and check the intake tube to see if any fine dust is getting by)
Under servicing a filter can cause problems, but over servicing when not needed also has the potential to let in unnecessary debris
#7
cpurvis
That is exactly what I was told by field reps from both Donaldson and Fleetguard. Removal and replacement of used filters, i.e., too much attention, is the biggest cause of dust ingestion. Both reps said, if you remove a filter, replace it with a new one--don't put the old one back in because the odds are that it won't reseal the same.
I may be the case that a torn element won't be detected by a Filterminder other than never showing an increase in restriction. But *I think* that most Filterminders will show a *slight* restriction, even with a brand new filter element. If that is the case, it would probably go to zero if the element gets torn.
cpurvis
7394 said:Biggest issue according to Kawasaki is owner always pulling out the canister filter to look at it, it can damage the seal & cause dust ingestion.
That is exactly what I was told by field reps from both Donaldson and Fleetguard. Removal and replacement of used filters, i.e., too much attention, is the biggest cause of dust ingestion. Both reps said, if you remove a filter, replace it with a new one--don't put the old one back in because the odds are that it won't reseal the same.
I may be the case that a torn element won't be detected by a Filterminder other than never showing an increase in restriction. But *I think* that most Filterminders will show a *slight* restriction, even with a brand new filter element. If that is the case, it would probably go to zero if the element gets torn.
#8
7394
7394
Thank You all for your informative replies, every word is most appreciated. I'm averaging only about 25 hours per mowing season. But I'm a lil fussy about my equipment.
Donaldson talked in length to me quite a while back & said the Big canister filter that I'll be using: Kaw# 11013 aka Donaldson # P821575 would use the 25" meter. That never sat totally well with me. That is for the numerous application filter, not for my engine. Thus my continued researching.
I've run Big Rigs that had 25" & 30" meters on them. I just felt something was not correct. Now with Vince confirming his Big Kawasaki has an 8" meter from Hustler, & even an online Hustler Service Manual showed pics of an 8" meter on their Kawasaki FX850V.
I think that is more in the correct range for my Kawasaki 651V engine. I want to do this conversion once & hopefully do it right.
And agree that even a Brand new filter should show a slight readable amount of resistance. & as cpurvis noted, even a slight tear in the media should be able to be noted by a drop to possibly zero in resistance.
Donaldson talked in length to me quite a while back & said the Big canister filter that I'll be using: Kaw# 11013 aka Donaldson # P821575 would use the 25" meter. That never sat totally well with me. That is for the numerous application filter, not for my engine. Thus my continued researching.
I've run Big Rigs that had 25" & 30" meters on them. I just felt something was not correct. Now with Vince confirming his Big Kawasaki has an 8" meter from Hustler, & even an online Hustler Service Manual showed pics of an 8" meter on their Kawasaki FX850V.
I think that is more in the correct range for my Kawasaki 651V engine. I want to do this conversion once & hopefully do it right.
And agree that even a Brand new filter should show a slight readable amount of resistance. & as cpurvis noted, even a slight tear in the media should be able to be noted by a drop to possibly zero in resistance.
#9
D
Durbel
D
Durbel
How did this filter minder work out for you on this engine? I have the same model and am looking to install one. Are you getting a vacuum reading even with a clean filter? I'm a believer in leaving air filters alone, but having a tear in the filter and the filter minder reading "green" is a valid concern. What's been your experience, if you don't mind?Thank You all for your informative replies, every word is most appreciated. I'm averaging only about 25 hours per mowing season. But I'm a lil fussy about my equipment.
Donaldson talked in length to me quite a while back & said the Big canister filter that I'll be using: Kaw# 11013 aka Donaldson # P821575 would use the 25" meter. That never sat totally well with me. That is for the numerous application filter, not for my engine. Thus my continued researching.
I've run Big Rigs that had 25" & 30" meters on them. I just felt something was not correct. Now with Vince confirming his Big Kawasaki has an 8" meter from Hustler, & even an online Hustler Service Manual showed pics of an 8" meter on their Kawasaki FX850V.
I think that is more in the correct range for my Kawasaki 651V engine. I want to do this conversion once & hopefully do it right.
And agree that even a Brand new filter should show a slight readable amount of resistance. & as cpurvis noted, even a slight tear in the media should be able to be noted by a drop to possibly zero in resistance.
#10
7394
7394
I'm totally pleased with my experience with it to date. Fact I just mowed today. At one point shortly after initial install long ago, I removed the raincap & w/engine running put my hand over the canister opening, & saw the meter rise quickly. And put the cap back on, this was just a gauge test.
It has a very low restriction so far, not quite 2"... But I put in New filters, when I did the conversion, & don't have 20 (twenty) hours on it yet.
It has a very low restriction so far, not quite 2"... But I put in New filters, when I did the conversion, & don't have 20 (twenty) hours on it yet.
#11
C
coder
C
coder
The problem with not detecting a leak is that the filter minder only shows the highest reading seen since reset.
So if you started off with no hole, the minder went up to whatever restriction the filter causes, and it will not go down on its own if the circumstances change. .
One way to get around this is to reset the minder periodically. Say, if the minder currently reads 2", it will never read less
unless you reset it. And that is one way to discover a leak. Reset the minder, and run the engine up to the operating RPM.
If the filter is OK the minder quickly will go back to the previous value. If it remains close to 0
then you have a tear/leak. If you do this with the engine running, this can be done pretty quickly.
If you have a cylindrical filter with a primary, and secondary "safety" filter, you can probably stop worrying about holes or leaks in the filter.
The likelihood of getting a hole in both filter layers is pretty small I would think. A field mouse would have to get in there, and chew through quite a bit of filter media,
and the housing kinda makes that impossible. This is more of a worry for a flimsy, single layer paper filter. But there you probably would not even bother
installing a minder, esp that you would have to drill into the intake tube for it.
BTW. Small 2 cylinder engines up to 25 HP are typically 8" restriction max. A small, single cylinder engine maybe 3-5" max.
A common passenger sedan would be 20" max. I think the air restriction goes up with the increase of the air quantity sucked through the filter.
The airflow is linear with both the RPM and engine CID.
So if you started off with no hole, the minder went up to whatever restriction the filter causes, and it will not go down on its own if the circumstances change. .
One way to get around this is to reset the minder periodically. Say, if the minder currently reads 2", it will never read less
unless you reset it. And that is one way to discover a leak. Reset the minder, and run the engine up to the operating RPM.
If the filter is OK the minder quickly will go back to the previous value. If it remains close to 0
then you have a tear/leak. If you do this with the engine running, this can be done pretty quickly.
If you have a cylindrical filter with a primary, and secondary "safety" filter, you can probably stop worrying about holes or leaks in the filter.
The likelihood of getting a hole in both filter layers is pretty small I would think. A field mouse would have to get in there, and chew through quite a bit of filter media,
and the housing kinda makes that impossible. This is more of a worry for a flimsy, single layer paper filter. But there you probably would not even bother
installing a minder, esp that you would have to drill into the intake tube for it.
BTW. Small 2 cylinder engines up to 25 HP are typically 8" restriction max. A small, single cylinder engine maybe 3-5" max.
A common passenger sedan would be 20" max. I think the air restriction goes up with the increase of the air quantity sucked through the filter.
The airflow is linear with both the RPM and engine CID.
#12
7394
7394
yep.