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Man did I spend a ridiculous amount of time researching for a carburetor for Home Depot Craftsman T150 mower with B&S engine!!! It was a learning lesson! This is my first exposure to riding mower repairs! Why the carb? Would not start. Well, would start then immediately shut down. I took carb off and took it apart. I found nothing wrong. Put it back on. It started so I mulched leaves for 1 1/2 hours. The next day it would not start. Took carb off and apart, nothing wrong, put back on, it started, used for an hour, next day no start. Went through that routine one more time. Online videos indicated rebuild/replace carb. To me there didn't seem to be anything wrong with carb so I ordered new one. That evening I saw video where it could be fuel shut off solenoid on bottom of carb. Checked it to see if it worked. Did not so also ordered fuel shut off solenoid. It hasn't arrived.

I finally found a carb with all the correct numbers for what it would fit, ordered on Amazon and very quickly received it through the mail! I was ready to put it on the mower today. I had to move some items from the top of the original carb to the new carb. I think the first was a screw for the choke lever? The screw (593040) appeared to be larger than the hole in the carb. I hoped it was just a really close fit and I could get the screw on in. I got the threads to catch and I forcefully screwed it in. I would have been finished in maybe three more turns of the driver when the screw snapped in two! Almost flush with the surface of the carb!! I checked the one other hole where I needed to have a screw (593041) to hold some choke solenoid, it has no threads! I assumed the carb would come with needed holes threaded.
I have no drill press. I do have a couple of drills and many bits. I don't doubt that I do NOT have the type bit to remove the screw/drill a new hole. I do not have any tools to thread those holes. I do NOT know anything of the screw (593040) that I need to replace - length, diameter, type threads - so I don't know what re-threader tool I might need. Same for 2nd screw (593041) that needs to go in carb body. Do I need to thread those holes? Since I will have altered carb I will not be able to return it afterwards.
I have found the correct number through B&S for the screw (593040) I need to replace. Jack's appears to have it - unless they get those from same place B&S gets theirs. B&S shows the part not available!
Any help/suggestions for what I will need to drill out the broken screw and thread those two holes?

Should I just order another carb and put this one on the shelf or trash it?

Frustrating day! And the grass/weeds here in south Alabama just get higher while the mower sits!

Thanks for your time!
Lloyd

The estimate ETA for part 593040 to in stock at the Briggs distributor is June 15, 2023. And that is a moving window.

send the carb back as defective, get on the phone to spots on the web that show it available, and see who actually has one in stock. Don't trust "usually ships in .... "

Is the fuel tank clogged up or have grass and debris in the bottom? Most do. I would flush it out.

slomo said:

Is the fuel tank clogged up or have grass and debris in the bottom? Most do. I would flush it out.

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Thanks. Earlier I flushed fuel lines, removed filter and flushed it, released fuel line from carb and drained fuel through line and filter. Never saw any debris in line, filter or fuel. Mower 4 years old.

sgkent said:

send the carb back as defective, get on the phone to spots on the web that show it available, and see who actually has one in stock. Don't trust "usually ships in .... "

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Thanks! I'll try to keep than in mind. I ordered this one through Amazon from MotorCarb (I believe that's the name.).

StarTech said:

The estimate ETA for part 593040 to in stock at the Briggs distributor is June 15, 2023. And that is a moving window.

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Thanks. I appreciate that.

every time but one I have had a start and die problem, it was caused by the fuel pump not working. Many of these carbs use pressure from the crankcase to help provide fuel to the engine. When that diaphragm in the carb fails the engine won't run. When you rebuilt the old carb, did you replace all the diaphragms? Make sure the hoses were all connected properly? The one time it was not the diaphragm in the carb, it was an idle jet that unscrewed and fell out, still to be hiding somewhere on the property. Many of our carbs here don't have mixture needles but rather a metering jet for many years now.

sgkent said:

every time but one I have had a start and die problem, it was caused by the fuel pump not working. Many of these carbs use pressure from the crankcase to help provide fuel to the engine. When that diaphragm in the carb fails the engine won't run. When you rebuilt the old carb, did you replace all the diaphragms? Make sure the hoses were all connected properly? The one time it was not the diaphragm in the carb, it was an idle jet that unscrewed and fell out, still to be hiding somewhere on the property. Many of our carbs here don't have mixture needles but rather a metering jet for many years now.

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I appreciate your time and thoughts. Hmmmm - that hose running to/from carb to mower - pressure from crankcase - I might just order a new hose in case that's a problem!
Wait - if the problem was that hose, would the mower crank first time carb is put back on and run smoothly for up to almost 2 hours with no issues?
After mower sits for maybe 3 hours or even all night then I try to crank it, it will NOT fire/run at all.
It's confusing to me!!

start with a diagnosis before you star making repairs to problems you do not have
So arm yourself with an red globe in line spark tester and a can of carb cleaner
Crank the engine and watch for the red flashes
No flash = no power to the spark plug
Red flashes , then spray a SHORT SHOT of carb cleaner down the air intake .
If the engine starts & runs then go mow and do the same tests when it stops
Your problems could be fuel or electrical so knock out 1/2 of them before you run around like a blue tailed fly chasing solutions to problems you do not have

It sound like he was just started guessing without even looking the engine's IPL. Second mistake was ordering an aftermarket carburetor off Amazon.

Air - Fuel
Spark
Compression

One is missing when it is cold.

What is the model, type and code of the engine and the model number of the mower?

bertsmobile1 said:

start with a diagnosis before you star making repairs to problems you do not have
So arm yourself with an red globe in line spark tester and a can of carb cleaner
Crank the engine and watch for the red flashes
No flash = no power to the spark plug
Red flashes , then spray a SHORT SHOT of carb cleaner down the air intake .
If the engine starts & runs then go mow and do the same tests when it stops
Your problems could be fuel or electrical so knock out 1/2 of them before you run around like a blue tailed fly chasing solutions to problems you do not have

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I received a new fuel stop solenoid. With 9 volt battery and a couple of short wires I verified the new solenoid works and the old one does NOT! Replaced it on carb. Now I'm waiting on replacement screw that broke trying to put in replacement carb! It's still a journey!

sgkent said:

Air - Fuel
Spark
Compression

One is missing when it is cold.

Click to expand...

But the mower would crank! If it sat for a long period then it would crank and run for hours. It just would not crank when turned off - unless left sitting for many hours or overnight. Right now I'm thinking it the fuel shut off solenoid at bottom of carb.

TLloyd said:

But the mower would crank! If it sat for a long period then it would crank and run for hours. It just would not crank when turned off - unless left sitting for many hours or overnight. Right now I'm thinking it the fuel shut off solenoid at bottom of carb.

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Then that sounds more like a heat soaked ignition coil pack. But you started out saying it simply would not start the next day.

Forest#2 said:

What is the model, type and code of the engine and the model number of the mower?

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Mower model 13AL79XT093 or CMXGRAM1130041
Engine 33R877 0033 G1 - single cylinder, 19 HP, 540 CC
Carb (# on carb - 592953, beneath that 23082319) Replacement # 594601

Now, if this has a fuel pump I do NOT find it! I thought this fuel supply system used vacuum method. Remember, this mower will run if left alone for many hours/overnight. If mower is turned off then tried to be restarted, it will not fire.
I'm looking at fuel shut off solenoid at bottom of carb. Using 9v battery and a couple of wires to check it, the original solenoid does not work.

If the bottom of fuel tank is ABOVE the carburetor bowl, then you won't have a fuel pump. If the carb is higher than the tank, you most definitely WILL have a pump. Just follow the feed line from the carb backwards to find it. It won't be far since it needs a crankcase pulse to work.

As far as the busted screw goes, just bring the old carb with you to a hardware store and grab screws to try until one fits, then use the size of that screw to buy a tap to rethread the hole. Been there, done that! Usually a really sh!tty day!

The screws you are using are self tapping screws. And hardware store will have them. They actually cut threads when you are putting it in the hole the first. In your next try, just after getting it started, drop a few drops of motor oil or any type of oil to lub. As you are cutting those threads, every half turn or so, reverse the screw to back it out a bit. Keep doing this and a bit of oil and you’ll be ok.

Easy way to check to see if it is a fueling problem or ignition problem is to take some starting fluid and when mower quits on you spray some into the carb if it fires off for a few seconds then quits it is a fuel problem if it doesn't start for a few seconds then you have an ignition problem.
This sounds like something stopping fuel flow or your ignition system is shutting off. Since I work on small engines, I have had both to happen after running for a period of time.
When you buy fuel from a station that fuel is not 100% trash free and when you fill your mower tank you can get trash in it when filling from around the cap or wind. So, that is the reason for a fuel filter but just like today on my 4X4 I kept having issues with it running good for a while then the carb would start leaking fuel and it would start back firing and sputtering. I cleaned the carb; it would still run good then start leaking etc. The problem was the fuel filter was not filtering the fuel. The element inside the filter had come loose and was allowing trash to get by and that trash was preventing the needle valve from closing and causing it to flood and leak fuel. That filter caused me all sorts of problems lol and the thing is it was changed last year when I serviced my 4X4. It has run well since I replaced the filter and fuel lines.
Fuel lines can also give problems. I had a fuel line break down inside it and it would close off causing the fuel to be blocked.
As to ignition systems they use electronic components in the newer models that can quit working after a time and after cooling down start working again. Coils can open and stop firing then cool down and start firing again.

1st problem, you ordered from Amazon, support local shops instead of Billionaires like Bezos

I would do a spark check immediately after it quits after it runs a bit. Two things fail when they get hot…..spark plugs and ignition coils. They can still run cold, but when they get hot, they will short out. So check spark when engine quits, but try a different plug(s) first.

TLloyd said:

Man did I spend a ridiculous amount of time researching for a carburetor for Home Depot Craftsman T150 mower with B&S engine!!! It was a learning lesson! This is my first exposure to riding mower repairs! Why the carb? Would not start. Well, would start then immediately shut down. I took carb off and took it apart. I found nothing wrong. Put it back on. It started so I mulched leaves for 1 1/2 hours. The next day it would not start. Took carb off and apart, nothing wrong, put back on, it started, used for an hour, next day no start. Went through that routine one more time. Online videos indicated rebuild/replace carb. To me there didn't seem to be anything wrong with carb so I ordered new one. That evening I saw video where it could be fuel shut off solenoid on bottom of carb. Checked it to see if it worked. Did not so also ordered fuel shut off solenoid. It hasn't arrived.

I finally found a carb with all the correct numbers for what it would fit, ordered on Amazon and very quickly received it through the mail! I was ready to put it on the mower today. I had to move some items from the top of the original carb to the new carb. I think the first was a screw for the choke lever? The screw (593040) appeared to be larger than the hole in the carb. I hoped it was just a really close fit and I could get the screw on in. I got the threads to catch and I forcefully screwed it in. I would have been finished in maybe three more turns of the driver when the screw snapped in two! Almost flush with the surface of the carb!! I checked the one other hole where I needed to have a screw (593041) to hold some choke solenoid, it has no threads! I assumed the carb would come with needed holes threaded.
I have no drill press. I do have a couple of drills and many bits. I don't doubt that I do NOT have the type bit to remove the screw/drill a new hole. I do not have any tools to thread those holes. I do NOT know anything of the screw (593040) that I need to replace - length, diameter, type threads - so I don't know what re-threader tool I might need. Same for 2nd screw (593041) that needs to go in carb body. Do I need to thread those holes? Since I will have altered carb I will not be able to return it afterwards.
I have found the correct number through B&S for the screw (593040) I need to replace. Jack's appears to have it - unless they get those from same place B&S gets theirs. B&S shows the part not available!
Any help/suggestions for what I will need to drill out the broken screw and thread those two holes?

Should I just order another carb and put this one on the shelf or trash it?

Frustrating day! And the grass/weeds here in south Alabama just get higher while the mower sits!

Thanks for your time!
Lloyd

Click to expand...

Had the same problem with my Troy Built 42 inch 2017 riding mower. Got mine from Amazon for about $30.00. Came with the solenoid.
Everything fit perfectly. ( Rarity for me) While I was in there I ordered and replaced the magneto because I was not sure if that was my problem. I think the total was $51.00. Had a wait but after everything was installed, I turned the key, and it started right up with no problems.
(Rarity, again for me) Think everything took about a month on a slow boat from China. A few prayers could have helped.
Hope this helped.


KEONG Compatible Carburetor Replacement for Briggs & Stratton 594605 792768 591734 594603 594605
Sold by: KEONG

KEONG Compatible Carburetor Replacement for Briggs & Stratton 594605 792768 591734 594603 594605

If your machine has a fuel pump, it will be a black round plastic device with 3 houses attached. It will be in the path from the carb to the tank. One house from the tank, one to the carb and the other to the engine. The are used when the tank is under the seat or somewhere else that puts is lower than the carb. If your tank is in the engine compartment and higher than the carb, you shouldn't have one.
The issue is your not getting gas thru the carb to the intake. If you pinch the fuel line, or turn the shut off valve off, and then remove the solenoid from the carb, a good amount of gas should come out of the carb bowl. If not, your not getting gas into the bowl. Either a plugged needle and seat, or fuel line. If gas is present, then I would take the solenoid and cut off the tip and reinstall it. These go intermittently bad and will not allow gas to flow into the idle circuit. If everything is fine now, you could either leave as is, or install a new solenoid. If problem returns with the new solenoid, you could be loosing the 12v to it. There should be 12v to the solenoid any time the key is on. Also check its ground wire.

CAJUNCANNON03 said:

1st problem, you ordered from Amazon, support local shops instead of Billionaires like Bezos

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Not helpful .....

OEM parts deliver where as non OEM parts do not deliver.

So is this thing running or what?

If you ever plan on changing a magneto, please check for proper gap first.

+1 to cleaning out the fuel tank. I had a bizarre problem where the mower would run fine for an hour then start bogging down or stalling. Someone suggested I check the tank. I couldn't see anything in it and anyway my garden is bumpy so the fuel is being shaken up the whole time. I couldn't see any possibility that something in the tank could take about an hour every time to block the outlet. Other people said it was likely overheating or an ignition issue. Then as last resort I drained the tank and dried it out with kitchen paper towels. I found a semi translucent insect in the bottom, virtually same colour as the tank. I still didn't believe it was the cause but it was. I refilled the tank from the same can of fuel and its run fine ever since.

A lot of things here but I'll try to cover the basics.
Firstly, I'm never a fan of replacing Parts especially carburetors because they rarely ever wear out unless they're 20 plus years old and the throttle shaft has worn into the aluminum body and it's sucking air. That's about it.
Nine times out of 10 even if you replace it with the same brand name carburetor like Briggs & stratton, the 8 to 20 year old carburetor you're replacing is probably better than the new Briggs and Stratton carburetor you're putting on!
Carbs don't really fail, they simply get dirty or need some new rubber Parts in them or float etc.
Now having said this I have used a couple of No name eBay or Amazon carbs even on riders and had good luck with them but I prefer just to use them to scavenge parts from the inside to put into the other carburetor but unfortunately not all of them are exact clone replacements and they will change stupid little things like the float or the needle valve when they don't have to.
So, I don't think you should have gone on the road to replace the carburetor because it certainly does sound like it was a fuel delivery issue and more than likely was the fuel solenoid on the bottom of the carb.
You will hear this called abs for antibackfire solenoid and you will hear it called after run solenoid or just solenoid on the carb like we're calling it..
You can't check this with a 9-volt battery or even the machine and be 100% assured that it's not bad.
The basic test is to see if it clicks or to feel or hear if it clicks when you plug the connector into it with the key on or you can actually remove it and look at it and watch it open and close cuz sometimes they get gummed up but this still doesn't alleviate two of the problems that these will commonly do.
Some, but not all have a rubber tip on the end and this rubber tip will become loose and will vibrate up the shaft that is knurled and will clog up or block off the jet I mean and then soon as the solenoid functions it's cycle a couple of times it works back into place so it will intermittently shut off while you're mowing and then restart and mess with you.
Then, there's the fact that many of them will just get old and they will get hot and break down so they'll work for a few minutes maybe 15 maybe two then they will start becoming erratic.
The way to test for this is to mow until it messes up and then unscrew it and put your finger on the hole and start it and see if it runs. Even better if you can find a carb bowl bolt or a short bolt with the same threads or even a rubber stopper at this point just to block off the fuel flow to test it.
I'm glad we're at the current day we are now because you probably got that part for under $12. If you would have bought that part over 5 years ago it was one of the most overpriced parts of lawn mowers for the past 30 years and they were over $60 to buy anywhere because it had to come in the brand name box because no aftermarket companies were copying it..
Then finally they showed up for $7 on ebay. This is a case where I'm glad to have the cheap aftermarket parts because they were hosing us on the brand name ones that should have never been over 10 or 15 to start with.
Kind of like golf carts and jet skis and boats. Total rip-off for what it is.
So, you're more than likely found your problem with the carb solenoid because these carbs pretty much either run or they don't due to being gummed up inside and there's just one main jet and if you take it out and or run wires through it and blow everything out clean and there's not stuff floating around in it the next time you're taking it apart you're usually good to go.
I think I read this was a Briggs engine but I can't remember. Those use either a Nikki or a walbro and I actually prefer the wall bro even though it's harder to pull the seat out and replace the brass seat I just find the repairs to be more durable than that crazy convoluted plastic body Nikki but they both will get the job done as will be aftermarkets.
The key to lawn mower repairs is diagnosis, diagnosis, diagnosis. Too many people throw parts at them hoping to find the problem and it's usually their third plus attempt before they actually stumble onto the fix and they're usually almost $200 into it at this point which really sucks.
There's other things that could be your problem like a blockage or restriction of fuel coming from the gas tank or if it has a fuel pump it could be sucking air on some of the lines too. I have more than once found those little tiny Japanese fake ladybugs inside the gas tank and stuck down into the first inch of the fuel line blocking it and I've also seen long strands of grass four and five inches long work its way down into the fuel line like a bundle of three or four of them preventing fuel flow.
Then, fuel line can crumble inside and deposit rubber specs inside your carb which is a self-clocking situation or you can get an internal prolapse inside the fuel line where the inner lining gets a hole in it and ends up ballooning up inside and blocks itself off inside.
I had one just last season on a push mower I think it was a Honda that had almost no fuel coming out of the fuel line with the valve turned on and when I took the fuel line off I couldn't even blow through it with my mouth so I started squeezing it and found the area that felt funny and cut it right there with a razor blade and you could see how the inner wall had pulled away and sealed itself off.
95% or somewhere thereabouts of lawn mower no starting or running issues is not enough fuel so the first thing to check anytime one diesel won't start is to get you an external fuel source and take the air filter off and spray that fuel source into there to see if it will then start and stay running as long as you spray it.
DON'T you starting fluid because it's just a waste and it's too hard on the engine.
Either put some gas in an old spray bottle or get you a can of spray carb cleaner because you can stand there and run one all day on the carb cleaner as long as you keep spraying and stopping and spraying and stopping.

CWatters said:

+1 to cleaning out the fuel tank. I had a bizarre problem where the mower would run fine for an hour then start bogging down or stalling. Someone suggested I check the tank. I couldn't see anything in it and anyway my garden is bumpy so the fuel is being shaken up the whole time. I couldn't see any possibility that something in the tank could take about an hour every time to block the outlet. Other people said it was likely overheating or an ignition issue. Then as last resort I drained the tank and dried it out with kitchen paper towels. I found a semi translucent insect in the bottom, virtually same colour as the tank. I still didn't believe it was the cause but it was. I refilled the tank from the same can of fuel and its run fine ever since.

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Yep, seen that several times. Had three ladybugs blow out of an old John Deere stx38 if you see something to go. Had a Cub cadet zero turn that had these long 4-in strands of thick grass all the way down in the fuel line coming out when I pulled it off the fuel pump.
Another thing I've seen three times now which is what I'm going to call an epidemic is on the new MTD riding mower engine I think they sometimes call it a power more or something like that but I believe it's made by Lawson in China for MTD and it's off and on the Troy-Bilt and Craftsman mowers..
I've had them start to start for fuel when the blades are on under load and three times now when I took the fuel line off and the carburetor bowl off and the needle and seat out and blue backwards through the inlet seat out the carburetor nipple that goes to the fuel line, a piece of cotton insulation looking wadding blew out!
I have a picture of the last one that came out. I don't know what they're getting in there but it packs itself in there and blocks off the flow.
It was only about a fourth the size of my pinky fingernail but it was densely packed in there tightly and it was the whole problem on three different mowers.

You might want to check the oil in the crankcase pull the dipstick out and smell it if it smells like gasoline change the oil and filter and put a cut off valve on the fuel line I had just that problem and still have a brand new carb leaking fuel into the crankcase if I don't turn the fuel off.

you can drill out the screw and replace it with a self taping screw