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My 2014 Scag Cheetah has had an intermittent no-start issue since last year. It used to be no big deal, just wiggle the key a few times and off it goes again. However, this year it has gone from a 2-3 second annoyance to a 15 minute ordeal to get it running. The last time I couldn't get it running at all. I am a complete idiot when it comes to electrical systems, so I could really use some help with this one.

So far I have:
1. Downloaded the owners manual from HERE and traced the wiring diagram.
2. Read through the forums for similar issues. Most I have followed the one HERE.
3. Measured all my own voltages and ohms: listed below. I am comparing these against the forum post linked above, where on page two the OP explains what worked on their mower. Note that I was using the battery ground to make all measurements.
At the control module I have: Red 12V, Black .2 ohms, Orange 12V, Brown 12V, Pink 12V, Light Blue 12V, Green/Black *not sure how to measure*
At the starter relay I have: Red/Yellow 12V full time, Green 12V switched from key, Green/White ground with .6 ohms, Green/Black switched power.

This leads me to believe that something is wrong with the relay since I have switched power on the Green/Black wire. According to the older linked post above the Green/Black should be ground and the Green/White should be switched power.

Is this correct? And if so, where can I get a replacement relay fairly cheaply? What else do I need to check/ try?

Thanks for any and all help on this one.

I should also state that I am confused by the wiring diagram, since the Green/White goes to the main ground point. If it is supposed to have power on it, white run it directly to ground?

My brand Patriot is doing the same thing I’m only getting 9.3 volts from the key switch to the solenoid. This is what I’m going to do. Scroll all the way to the top of this link.


https://www.mytractorforum.com/234-...st-relay-assembly-install.html#/topics/209618

Check the relay wire positions.
You can switch a relay with either a power wire or a ground wire or both.
The green / white looks like it should be a switched ground circuit.

Pto switch going out not making a good ground. Wiggle the pto switch on and off when it gets in the no start and see if it starts.

My 2014 Cheetah had the same problem and I fought it for the first year. The problem seemed worse when the mower was hot.

I finally decided to replace the $125 module. While in the process of replacing the module, I found the wire coupler in a serious bind and I had trouble getting the module out. Once I did, I discovered it had been forced together and two of the lead connectors were damaged in the process. I bypassed the coupler with those two leads and plugged the old module back in. Mower has not given me any more problems. I have the new module in my spare parts drawer for possible future use. In hindsight, I should have test the wires coming out of the module when it was in the hot, no start condition.

A forum member, who I can't remember his name, posted this info and I copied it for my future use. Since he posted it on this public forum, I assume he wanted to help people with the info and wanted to share it.

" (...What I did to deduce are the conditions with the Control Module is ensure 12 volts on wires going into the Control Module. No power means that OSHA safety switch is probably bad.:

• Control Handles Out, Brake On, Seat Switch Depressed, key in START position.

• The RED wire at the module provides BATTERY VOLTAGE to power-up the module - needs 12 volts

• The BLACK wire at the module provides GROUND to the module. Confirm good GROUND is present on BLACK wire at module connector.

• The ORANGE wire at the module is supplying BATTERY VOLTAGE from the LH & RH neutral (control lever) switches to the module- needs 12 volts

• The BROWN wire at the module is supplying BATTERY VOLTAGE from the seat switch to the module - needs 12 volts

• The PINK wire at the module is supplying BATTERY Voltage from the brake switch to the module - needs 12 volts

• The LT BLUE wire at the module is supplying BATTERY VOLTAGE from the PTO switch to the module - needs 12 volts

• The GREEN/BLACK wire at the module is supplying GROUND from the module to the start relay. Confirm good GROUND is present on GREEN/BLACK wire at the START RELAY.

• The GREEN wire at the start relay is supplying BATTERY VOLTAGE from the key switch to the start relay - needs 12 volts

When the above listed conditions are met, voltage will be supplied on the GREEN/WHITE wire from the start relay to the starter solenoid to engage starter....)"


Electric module part number 483599 and is $125

Thanks for doing that reposting.
And yes we are all here to freely exchange information so continue to repost .

Yea, that info is what I linked in my original post.

Bert, what do you mean by a ground switched versus power switched relay. How would I tell which one I have from the wiring diagrams? Also any other help diagnosing what is wrong before I go and buy parts?

Hi friend

I can recommend that you take your scag to a specialized technician so you avoid doing a major damage, if it really is a relay then the technician will tell you and so you can buy precisely what you need and replace the damaged part, a relay is not so expensive does not happen $ 50

Emmaline
https://www.scagpartsonline.com

buckwheat010101 said:

Yea, that info is what I linked in my original post.

Bert, what do you mean by a ground switched versus power switched relay. How would I tell which one I have from the wiring diagrams? Also any other help diagnosing what is wrong before I go and buy parts?

Click to expand...

The relays are the same regardless of how they are switched.
The pin that is orientated differently from all of the others is the one that is being switched
The terminals left & right of it are the control terminals.
to activate the relay, one has to have voltage & the other has to be ground
So you can control the relay either by turning the 12V on & off or turning the ground on & off or by switching both of them.
The trend now days is to use ground wires to control as much as possible because if one of these chaff through the mower does not burst into flames if the fuse fails or spark & ignite if there is a fuel leak or if there is a lot of dry grass clippings around.