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2010 JD Z930A Transmission Leaking Badly

#1

J

jakesmurray

I have this Z-trak mower and the left side transmission is leaking very badly. Right when you pour fluid in the reservoir, it drips out of the top under the belt pulley and drips down the rear housing of the transmission. It is a steady drip until it reaches the point at the top of the transmission where the leak is. The right side transmission is completely dry. When I first got this mower, the reservoir was empty, and it took around 2 qts to fill it to the min line, and the total capacity is 1.2 gallons. Any help is greatly appreciated.


#2

M

mechanic mark

Google: parts jd z930a transaxle parts, click on fourth site down for parts schematic, looks like a major repair.


#3

M

mowerman05

My Z 930 A has leaked from day one, not a drip but a small amount of fluid on the pump, been to the dealer 3 times and they resealed were the line come out of the tank, still a small amount of oil on pump non stop.


#4

J

jakesmurray

Thanks for the replies guys. This one is leaking real bad, but what is odd is that the right side transmission looks as good as new. It does look like an in-depth repair, I may take it to my dealer just for them to diagnose it and give me a quote on how much it will be to fix it. At only 165 hours, I wouldn't have figured there would already be a major issue like this...


#5

M

mowerman05

My right side is clean as well, I believe my problem is the o ring on the end of the hose on the oil reservoir end but only makes the left pump filthy dirty


#6

J

jakesmurray

mowerman05 said:
My right side is clean as well, I believe my problem is the o ring on the end of the hose on the oil reservoir end but only makes the left pump filthy dirty
Click to expand...

This one is leaking on the rear portion of the tranny. The tube that goes from the reservoir to the transmission is dry and clean, but the back portion of the case is a different story...

I'm going to check into this soon, I'll let you know what I find.


#7

J

jakesmurray

I'm going to dig into this tomorrow, I really hope it's something simple and this mower doesn't need a new transmission...


#8

J

jakesmurray

Ok, an update. I pulled the transmission out today. It was a bit tricky, but not too terrible. I couldn't get the pulley off by hand, so I went to my local auto parts store and rented a puller. A couple of cranks and it popped right off. Then the problem became obvious. The seal around the input shaft was dry as a bone, to my surprise. The problem lied within the plug that covers the shavings magnet. It had a crack right in the center of it. It is made of rubber, and it was extremely brittle. Turns out the old plug (part no. M809062) has been replaced with a new updated part number (MIU801988). I am interested to see how improved the new plug will be over the old one. I will also be replacing the magnet, as I slightly cracked the old one trying to remove it with needle nose pliers. The part number for it is M119842 for it. I'm also going to look at the other side's transmission and see if I can replace this plug without removing the entire transmission. I'd like to replace it too, because I know it's only a matter of time before it cracks and begins leaking. The pulley covers about 90% of the top of this plug, making it difficult to access, so we will see. More updates to come...

mower.jpg

tranny1.jpg

tranny2.jpg


#9

Glyn Robinson

Glyn Robinson

glad you found the problem! thanks for the pics!


#10

J

jakesmurray

Ordered the parts today from my dealer. They should be in Friday, then I can get this thing back on the lawn. :cool:


#11

J

jakesmurray

Got this thing put back together today, and she is all dry now! :thumbsup:

Turns out JD has updated the part number again for the rubber plug. It is now MIU14382. The new plug is all metal with a thin coating of rubber- a much more fail-proof design. So Kudos to JD for realizing and fixing their mistakes. The transaxle is made by a company called Tuff Torq. I had never heard of them. Everything went back together smoothly, and now this machine is ready for the new mowing season. :cool:

new plug.jpg

plug w pulley.jpg

transaxle mfg.jpg

finished.jpg


#12

BlazNT

BlazNT

jakesmurray said:
Got this thing put back together today, and she is all dry now! :thumbsup:

Turns out JD has updated the part number again for the rubber plug. It is now MIU14382. The new plug is all metal with a thin coating of rubber- a much more fail-proof design. So Kudos to JD for realizing and fixing their mistakes. The transaxle is made by a company called Tuff Torq. I had never heard of them. Everything went back together smoothly, and now this machine is ready for the new mowing season. :cool:

View attachment 28314

View attachment 28315

View attachment 28316

View attachment 28317
Click to expand...

Don't pat John Deere on the back for any of that. Tuff Torq made all the parts. Probably reason it was so cheep to begin with was that John Deere made them cheepen it for profit reasons.


#13

J

jakesmurray

Well I'm glad that someone realized there was problem. It's a shame how badly quality suffers today just to squeeze out a little more money.


#14

BlazNT

BlazNT

My son used to work at the Tuff Torq plant and John Deere left them and went with china made because it saved them $3.00 per unit. That lasted 6 months and they came back to Tuff Torq because of the failure rate.


#15

J

jakesmurray

I completely understand their reasoning- $3 a unit adds up real quick. But there is a fine line between getting a little more profit and putting out a quality product...


#16

BlazNT

BlazNT

62% failure rate cost them a lot more than $3.00 a unit.


#17

C

ckhplumbing

jakesmurray said:
Ok, an update. I pulled the transmission out today. It was a bit tricky, but not too terrible. I couldn't get the pulley off by hand, so I went to my local auto parts store and rented a puller. A couple of cranks and it popped right off. Then the problem became obvious. The seal around the input shaft was dry as a bone, to my surprise. The problem lied within the plug that covers the shavings magnet. It had a crack right in the center of it. It is made of rubber, and it was extremely brittle. Turns out the old plug (part no. M809062) has been replaced with a new updated part number (MIU801988). I am interested to see how improved the new plug will be over the old one. I will also be replacing the magnet, as I slightly cracked the old one trying to remove it with needle nose pliers. The part number for it is M119842 for it. I'm also going to look at the other side's transmission and see if I can replace this plug without removing the entire transmission. I'd like to replace it too, because I know it's only a matter of time before it cracks and begins leaking. The pulley covers about 90% of the top of this plug, making it difficult to access, so we will see. More updates to come...

View attachment 28289

View attachment 28290

View attachment 28291
Click to expand...

how much of a hassle to pull tranny?
is there a list somewhere of the order of parts removal?
Thanks


#18

J

jakesmurray

ckhplumbing said:
how much of a hassle to pull tranny?
is there a list somewhere of the order of parts removal?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Welcome to LMF!

Gosh I'm trying to think back to last year what all I had to do to get that trans out. I remember it was a bit of a chore, but certainly doable for the DIYer. Just disconnect all the linkages, trans fluid reservoir tube, belt, etc and you shouldn't have any problem.


#19

C

ckhplumbing

jakesmurray said:
Welcome to LMF!

Gosh I'm trying to think back to last year what all I had to do to get that trans out. I remember it was a bit of a chore, but certainly doable for the DIYer. Just disconnect all the linkages, trans fluid reservoir tube, belt, etc and you shouldn't have any problem.
Click to expand...

Thank you.
This weeks project if i can find time.


#20

T

tlj692003

jakesmurray said:
Ok, an update. I pulled the transmission out today. It was a bit tricky, but not too terrible. I couldn't get the pulley off by hand, so I went to my local auto parts store and rented a puller. A couple of cranks and it popped right off. Then the problem became obvious. The seal around the input shaft was dry as a bone, to my surprise. The problem lied within the plug that covers the shavings magnet. It had a crack right in the center of it. It is made of rubber, and it was extremely brittle. Turns out the old plug (part no. M809062) has been replaced with a new updated part number (MIU801988). I am interested to see how improved the new plug will be over the old one. I will also be replacing the magnet, as I slightly cracked the old one trying to remove it with needle nose pliers. The part number for it is M119842 for it. I'm also going to look at the other side's transmission and see if I can replace this plug without removing the entire transmission. I'd like to replace it too, because I know it's only a matter of time before it cracks and begins leaking. The pulley covers about 90% of the top of this plug, making it difficult to access, so we will see. More updates to come...

View attachment 28289

View attachment 28290

View attachment 28291
Click to expand...
Were you able to replace the right side with out removing the transmission ? I know its been awhile but if you could remember back and give detailed instructions on removing the transmission it would be greatly appreciated.I have looked it over pretty good and I don't see how to get to the front two bolts.


#21

Boobala

Boobala

Hey Jakes, been years since we last communicated, I think you were into racing mowers back then, and I needed info on my Murray mower, now you're into newer machines ??


#22

T

tlj692003

Ok I decided to wing it and just Dive in. Once you get the wheel off it’s apparent what to do and everything is fairly easy to get to. This is the order I went.Drain hydraulic fluid, remove the drive belt off the transmission pulley, loosen hose clamp at the hydraulic reservoir, remove both steel hydraulic lines, unhook the 2 linkages, place a jack under transmission remove 9 mounting bolts and lower it down while you wiggle back an forth to get the hose off the hydraulic reservoir. Once it’s out remove the pulley nut and pull the fan blade off and then use a jaw puller to remove the pulley. I used a 2 jaw and it worked great. Then just simply pop out the old plug and tap in the new improved plug John Deere part number MIU14382 $6.80. Then reassemble in reverse and refill the hydraulic reservoir. I changed both filters so it took 5 qts. to fill it up. It took me about 3 hours from start to finish including test drives and shop clean up. Pretty simple job with the use of just common tools and a 2 jaw puller.


#23

S

SWood

Thanks for the thread and the part numbers. Just jerked out both transaxels in my 930r and found the same problem.


#24

Boobala

Boobala

Nice of you fella's to share your info, I'm sure there will be some very thankful members out there ! .. :thumbsup:..:thumbsup:


#25

Boobala

Boobala

SHOULD BE POSTED in TRANSMISSINS & TRANSAXLES

Nice of you fella's to share your info, I'm sure there will be some very thankful members out there ! .. :thumbsup:..:thumbsup:


THIS should be posted in the "Transmissions & Transaxles" Forum !


#26

B

bigshow

I’m curious how you guys removed the cracked plug?

I went ahead and cut out the center and was able to pop it out from the inside with a screwdriver. I was very careful to not score the inside.


#27

R

rayzorback

I used a wood chisel under the edge of the cap and twisted.
Came right off.

Whole process was relatively easy.

Saved myself over $300 in labor fees :)


#28

J

jakesmurray

Boobala said:
Hey Jakes, been years since we last communicated, I think you were into racing mowers back then, and I needed info on my Murray mower, now you're into newer machines ??
Click to expand...


Hey how's it going? This shows how often I check this forum these days. :rolleyes: I'm doing very well, but a lot has changed. I don't even own a mower at the moment, as I live in an apartment. I finished up school and have a full time job, so that doesn't leave me much time to tinker with mowers. I'm hoping one day to get back to it. :thumbsup:


#29

J

jakesmurray

I'm so glad to see this thread still helping people. :thumbsup: I remember back to when I did this a few years ago now, I was able to help the lady out, and I learned a great deal in the process. It was a win-win.


#30

P

PMD

I just discovered a leak in the exact same area on my 960A. I'm guessing it's the same issue. Is there any way to get at that plug without pulling the transmission??


#31

J

jakesmurray

Hi PMD,

I don't believe there is a way to access the plug without pulling the trans. It may be possible, but I didn't see an immediate way when I did this repair a few years ago.


#32

S

smackerquacker

Hi,
Any idea when they updated the plug? Have a 2014 Z920M and the left wheel motor is covered in oil. Drips pretty steady when running. Before we pull the wheel motor just wondering if this has the updated plug and is going to be some other issue. Thanks


#33

J

jakesmurray

smackerquacker, that’s a great question. I have no idea when they updated it, but maybe someone who knows will chime in.


#34

O

O'Deere

@ smackerquacker: My 2014 John Deere z915b had the cracked/leaking cap also.

Thanks for everyone's previous comments on this topic. Helped a lot!

My notes after replacing the faulty cap:
1. Cap replacement part # was MIU14382
2. Directions "Remove and Install Fan Assembly" - Fan Assembly Lock Nut Torque 39-46 Nm (28-34 lbft)
3. Use holes on sides of pulley with pulley puller. Insert screw driver in same hole for taking off the fan assembly nut.
4. Directions "Remove and Install Right or Left Transaxle" - Transaxle to Frame Cap Screws Torque 73 Nm (54 lbft)
5. Lift mower high enough to move the transaxle and jack stand out.
6. Clean old oil on outside of pump with old gasoline.
7. I didn't drain the hydraulic fluid before removing the transaxle.
8. Cover hose from the hydraulic reservoir to keep dust and grass out.

Attachments









#35

J

jakesmurray

O'Deere, I'm glad you were able to gather some helpful information from this thread and repair your leaky transaxle! (y)


#36

S

spydox

were you able to do the other side without removing the tranny ?


#37

J

JD4ME2

spydox said:
were you able to do the other side without removing the tranny ?
Click to expand...
I replaced the left side on my 2012 Z930a two years ago and I didn't see any way to do the right side with out removing the tranny.
I didn't do the right side and it's still doing good. I don't know why but everyone I have read about that is leaking it always seems to be on left side. Good luck


#38

O

O'Deere

Old thread - Looks like I replaced one side cap 3 years ago. Had to replace the other side this year. Advice would be to do both sides at same time. It is easier to work on a clean hydro than one covered in muck.


#39

StarTech

StarTech

At least you can drop each transaxle separately; unlike the Z925A where you have to drop both due lack access to the mounting bolts.


#40

StarTech

StarTech

jakesmurray said:
Got this thing put back together today, and she is all dry now! 👍

Turns out JD has updated the part number again for the rubber plug. It is now MIU14382. The new plug is all metal with a thin coating of rubber- a much more fail-proof design. So Kudos to JD for realizing and fixing their mistakes. The transaxle is made by a company called Tuff Torq. I had never heard of them. Everything went back together smoothly, and now this machine is ready for the new mowing season. :cool:

View attachment 28314
Click to expand...
Steel cap has been out quite awhile as it is Tuff Torq PN 187T0136300 and retails for $3.86.
Click to expand...


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