Export thread

i finally got this thing running good but now it won't move. It's a Craftsman 50" with a 25 hp Kohler. I had an issue with the engine running out of control but that's fixed now. It has a hydrostatic drive and won't go forward nor reverse. The belt is running the way it should and appears to have the right tension when engaged. The mower deck operates as it should.
The odd thing it will move a little forward when I move the drive lever to reverse but nothing happens moving the lever forward. Nothing is broken or disconnected. It drove with no problems the last time I used it. I have no idea how to check the fluid level in the transmission as there is nothing in the the owners manual about it which has perplexed me all the years of owning it. The transmission has never leaked.
Is the transmission shot?

The model number is 917.258920 if that helps anyone.

Make sure you haven't forgot to push the bypass lever in so it will move. If it has set for any length of time you may need to bleed the air from the system. Jack the rear wheels up, pull the bypass, start the mower and then move the direction control lever both directions several times, and then push the bypass in and move through the same forward and reverse motions to see if that helps.

No the bypass is not engaged and working as it should. That's how I push the mower out the door so I don't stink up the garage when starting it. I pushed it out to start it and when I tried to back it up to put it back in the garage, that's when I found out it wouldn't move either way. I had just tried jacking it up and run it with the rear wheels off the ground and nothing happened either. It hadn't been sitting for more than two weeks. I had the engine out to check if the governor was broken but it was OK. It put it all back together and double checked the belt to make sure it was routed correctly which it was. The idlers are fine and tension correctly when releasing the brake lever. I pulled the inspection cover and the I could see the belt and fan running normally. I'm stumped.

There may be a key on the shaft that could have sheared. See if you can turn the pulley and make sure the shaft spins with the pulley.

I think that was the first thing I tried. It's definitely not a sheared key on the crankshaft. In fact the key is part of the pulley.

The transaxle and pump are Hydro-gear 218-3010 and BU-10L-122

NO Promises,...BUT you might find help here .

http://www.hydro-gear.com/service-and-repair-manuals/

Thanks Boobala. I found the site when I googled the manufacturer. They don't seem to have anything for my transaxle but I did find the pump. I have a feeling the problem may be in the pump but it could also be a collapsed oil filter. It's never been changed and the write-up in the tractor's manual states the pump/axle doesn't need servicing which has always worried me. It does say it's filled for the "life" of the unit. Anything can be filled for the life of the unit. I think it all depends on how long you want it to "live". The manufacturers and sales outlets don't care how long it last once your warranty runs out. They're in the business of selling tractors and parts. I think they'd be shocked to see that I made this beast last as long as it has.
I have some understanding of this kind of pumps and it could be as something as simple as a stuck check valve or broken spring. I don't think it's the bypass valve because it still locks up axle. I don't think it's a stuck brake either since it will move and stops the wheels from turning when applied. It doesn't make any noise when running so I don't think it's something major. The wheels turn in opposite direction as they should when I lift them off the ground. They don't make any noise when turning them and they turn freely when spun.

Have you checked the keys in the axle shafts at the wheels?

No I didn't check that since I didn't have either wheel off in a long time. I did try running the tractor with both wheels off the ground and there was no movement on either wheel. I'm sure the keys are OK because of the momentary movement I had on a few occasions. There were no grinding sounds at any point.

It appears I solved the problem. I drained as much oil as I could and changed the filter. The biggest problem was that there was no way to refill it, at least with the transaxle in the tractor. I had to pull it out and set it sideways on the tire sidewall. That's the only way you can fill it through the plugs in the case. You can't fill it through the plugs while it is in the tractor. Craftsman did not want this thing serviceable as the manual that came with even indicates this as "The transaxle was sealed at the factory and fluid maintenance
is not required for the life of the transaxle." I wonder why the bother putting a filter on this thing then?
Either way I filled it with oil and it moves again. There was nothing in Hydrogear's website that would show me what the oil capacity is so I put as much as I drained out and plus some extra.
Now I have deal with the governor on the engine again. http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/showthread.php/43862-My-Kohler-Command-25-hp-now-runs-WOT-on-its-own
I think an average owner would have junked this thing long time ago.

Bleach - are you still messing with the 97 Craftsman? I just recently joined and discovered you have the same model I have. Never seen another. I, too, am in Washington State - in Maple Valley. Where are you?

Rich
Cell: 425-417-5556

Bleach said:

It appears I solved the problem. I drained as much oil as I could and changed the filter. The biggest problem was that there was no way to refill it, at least with the transaxle in the tractor. I had to pull it out and set it sideways on the tire sidewall. That's the only way you can fill it through the plugs in the case. You can't fill it through the plugs while it is in the tractor. Craftsman did not want this thing serviceable as the manual that came with even indicates this as "The transaxle was sealed at the factory and fluid maintenance
is not required for the life of the transaxle." I wonder why the bother putting a filter on this thing then?
Either way I filled it with oil and it moves again. There was nothing in Hydrogear's website that would show me what the oil capacity is so I put as much as I drained out and plus some extra.
Now I have deal with the governor on the engine again. http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/showthread.php/43862-My-Kohler-Command-25-hp-now-runs-WOT-on-its-own
I think an average owner would have junked this thing long time ago.

Click to expand...

Hello. I came across your post. I have a craftsman gt300, with kind of the same issue (?).
It'll go in reverse, but not really forward (reg. Speed, under pressure/strain). The oil and filter was changed and it didn't help.
I was wondering if you turning it on its side (on the tire sidewall), that may have moved the gears back in alignment(?). I was wondering which tire you tipped it on, left or right.
My email, lemonlimehomer70@hotmail, if you could reply.
Thanks.

Lemonlimehomer said:

Hello. I came across your post. I have a craftsman gt300, with kind of the same issue (?).
It'll go in reverse, but not really forward (reg. Speed, under pressure/strain). The oil and filter was changed and it didn't help.
I was wondering if you turning it on its side (on the tire sidewall), that may have moved the gears back in alignment(?). I was wondering which tire you tipped it on, left or right.
My email, lemonlimehomer70@hotmail, if you could reply.
Thanks.

Click to expand...

No
There is no magic cure
Some times a thicker oil will add a few more seasons to a hydro but they wear out
The valve plate ( often called a kidney plate ) on more expensive units can be replaced
A machinist with the required knowledge & tooling can machine the wear out then shim other parts to bring the pump or motor back to spec but in the USA most just replace the pump/motor module

Mainly because machine shops charge more the replacement parts here. That is when you even find one with the knowledge and tools to do it. For example the HG-71530 center section costs me $85 and the local machine shop is at $120/hr. Just don't sense to spend more at the machine shop. Now of I got to add the piston motor blocks too but again the machine quote more than what it cost me to buy new replacement parts.