Apologies if this has been asked, a search of the forum did not find an solution.
I have a 1996 Yard-Man #146Y834P401 with a 22hp Kohler, 50" deck, that I have just picked up from a friend as he replaced it this past week. He had mowed with it fine up until the past week when it quit on him and he didn't even want to bother with it so he went and picked up a new rider.
And now its my project.
Engine starts and the tractor runs smooth until you turn on any "accessories", such as the headlights or PTO. Turning on the headlights or PTO will kill the engine. If you turn either off in time you can catch it and the engine still runs. I can spin the blades on the deck by hand, feeling no binding or extreme resistance.
Looking at all of the wiring, relays, and connectors, they all appear to be clean and in good order except for the ignition switch. The switch seems to have suffered an overheat and is a tad bit melted and the when turning the key to start it requires some wiggling for the engine to turn over. Not having a tractor before that had all of its wiring appearing to be attached to the key switch, how possible/common, would it be for this overheated switch to allow the tractor to run, but somehow have a short that would kill the engine if an accessory is turned on?
It started to rain heavily tonight so I havent had a chance to continue further with it but I plan to check the PTO switch tomorrow.
Any other suggestions? Ideas?
Thanks,
Ian
#2
EngineMan
Check to see if the battery is 100% then check the charging system is also working fine. the charging system should be able to run the clutch if its working 100% and the battery is good.
Check to see if the battery is 100% then check the charging system is also working fine. the charging should be able to run the clutch if its working 100% and the battery is good.
I will check the charging system. The battery is brand new and will check to see that I am getting what I should.
#4
Fish
Post your engine's model numbers. The only way that turning on the headlights would kill the engine is if you have a fuel
shutoff solenoid, Smartspark, or else stray voltage is reaching the kill circuit, so we need to know what you have.
Your engine has smart spark, which is a finicky system anyway. It requires a minimum of voltage to the SAM unit to run.
With your first post, I would bet that you need a new keyswitch, as poor connections there would explain your problems
exactly, and from your description, it is about totally shot anyway.
But you must be very careful and get the correct keyswitch, as they all pretty much look the same, but are wired very different.
There are usually letters on the terminals that correspond to its scheme, or get it from a dealer that will sell you the
correct switch, but check the letters anyway.
