Just picked up a toro zero turn with a kohler CV492s. Has a broken connecting rod. Took it apart and found that the cam was broken in half and the rod took out a piece of the cylinder wall at the bottom. Im thinking it could be rebuildable. The rings dont go that far down and it just knocked that out, no cracking up the cylinder wall. Anyone ever do any rebuild like this? Curious how others have handled this. Thanks
Only way to rebuild your engine properly is to use a short block. I understand that the cylinder is broke below ring travel, but the piston will cock sideways and engine will not last long enough to warrant any other type of rebuilding. If you decide to rebuild any other way, I'll give you my address so you can send me some of that wasted money and I promise to pray for you. You never know, I could create a miracle for you.
You think its enough room for the piston to turn? I was hopping for better news.LOL. I have been working on small engines along time and have not run into this situation yet. I have on some old 2-stroke dirtbikes. Have always ran them if not broken too far up. Was hoping it might work on this. I really dont want to buy a new short block at the cost of 699.99
With the piece missing you ruin the integrity of the cylinder. Could easily have hidden cracks which cannot be seen, which will enlarge with heat and weaken the cylinder. This will allow for more piston slap, faster wear and possible cocking. Just my opinion, Sorry.
I have looked at small engine ware house before. But the kohler has a 15 amp alt. and an eletric pto. As far as i have seen comparable motors are 800-1000. I may try to hunt down a used block if anything. Or just rebuild it and hope for the best.
All the runnig gear from your motor is transferrable to the new one.
Kohler only use 1 flywheel for each model range so you just need to swap out your stators and the rectifrier and you are good to go.
Pop the brand new unwanted alternator on evilbay, they go for $ 50 to $ 100.
If the camshaft was broken, did the rod gauld to the crankshaft? If there is crankshaft damage especially where the connecting rod attaches to the crankpin on the crankshaft, you might also have main bearing damage? More so if it has an electric clutch. You might patch it and get it going, but it will still be an expensive experiment!
the crank doesnt look damaged. There is some aluminum melted on it for sure. I am going to pour some acid on it tomorrow the see what crank looks like. No noticable bearing damage. Im curious why the electric clutch makes a difference.
I know I can buy a new kohler shortblock and swap everything. But not sure I want to shell out the money for a new kohler. Not a Huge fan. I like briggs but am not sure what motor would swap over
If you go back to the small engine warehouse and look at the specs you will see that just about all of the engines 8Hp through to about 20Hp are directly interchangeable .
Just check the shaft sizes,
7/8" = push / self propelled
1" = domestic
1 & 1/8" = commercial
With very few exceptions all will have the same key way & bolt hole
Most will have the same output shaft length and all have the same mounting centres
The only real problem is the exhaust which oft will not align with your muffler position.
Most motors will come complete so all you need to do is swap your electrics if the replacement is not above your output.
All Kohler alternators interchange & all Briggs alternators interchange however only within the brand and not with each other.
Kohlers have two different crank shafts so while the acual alternator stators interchange, the fly wheels will not swap between Courage & Command as the Courage is made from cheaper steel and is considerably thicker than the Command.
All of the repower specialist will have engines on "special"
I bought a pallet load of 20Hp B & S last year for $ 600 a piece and they shipped them to Long Beach for free.
Rebulding your engine is sheer madness.
You will find cracks around the cam bushes and there is a better than average chance that there are more cracks in the sleeve which will break free & drop off into the engine.
If you are lucky they will just bounce around and smash up the oil pump & governor.
If you are unlucky they will jamb the con rod and smash another set of cases.
However at the end of the day it is your wallet the folding is coming from so you have to decide what you want to do.
#11
reynoldston
Just what do you have to lose? Go for it. The build up on the crankshaft would be my main concern. Never had very good luck with crankshafts. I have seen some good size chunks out of the lower cylinder wall and still going. Just make sure you clean everything and get out all the metal fillings.
If there was a possibility that the connecting rod broke due to oil starvation in the past, there is a possibility of excessive wear in the top or bottom main bearing. If it has an electric clutch, wear in either of the main bearings can cause the required air gap in the electric clutch to diminish and the result can cause damage to the electric clutch. Also engines that use an electric clutch usually have more thrust loading between the crankshaft and the main bearings. In an unrelated note, a few years ago, there was an issue when a major electric clutch manufacturer shipped some OEM's some defective clutches with an electrical short through the crankshaft, caused the top main bearings to melt after only a few hours of running.
In the long run most likely the better alternative.
If you check evilbay / caigs list you will see that parted out you should get in the order of $ 200 to $ 400 for the Kohler parts, starter, carb, flywheel , alternator, head & crank then $ 2,00 scrap for the short block.
