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Working on a 14" poulan Wood shark Chainsaw, I can't find a model number on it anywhere so i can order the proper parts. all i can find are the emission tag numbers..

Anyone know where they put it?

Can you put up some pics?

the model and serial number sticker tag is normally below the trigger on the fuel tank. Seems like it was the same tag as the emissions tag but I could be wrong.

Poulan saws normally have the model # on clutch cover, recoil housing or both. I have a wood shark model 1950. Post a pic of all 4 sides of your saw if don't find it.

darn it, I didn't get a notification for this, I'll go snap some photo's.

Every woodshark i have seen are either 3314 or 1950

there it is! light from the flash helped, but it appears to be wiped out.

It is there scrubby
Take some photos of the tag in good strong sunlight
Then open a COPY of each photo in your favourite photo editor.
Play with the contrast settings and the numbers will jump out & bite you
You may need to get some from different photos
The dark area will respond better to inverting ( make negative on some apps ) .

Appears to be a Poulan Woodshark P3314 WSA 802046 and it is a type 2 version.

P3314 WSA type 2

Scrubcadet, I have a 3-4 of these in parts boxes. When they have scored P&C, they aren't worth rebuilding, $-wise. What parts do you need?

dougand3 said:

Scrubcadet, I have a 3-4 of these in parts boxes. When they have scored P&C, they aren't worth rebuilding, $-wise. What parts do you need?

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Most likely a carburetor, runs with the choke all the way out, bogs out and dies when you give it throttle, I'm going to try and clean it and adjust it first, if that doesn't work I'll give you a holler.

Probably a Zama C1M-W26C. I don't have any new or rebuilt ones. Check your pump and metering diaphragms - any stiffness or click = need to be replaced. Zama is a PITA - they have 150 cube carbs and 147 rebuild kits. Walbro has 150 carbs and 4 kits. You never have the proper Zama kit around. Clone carbs and full fuel delivery kits are ~$15 online.
Do pull muffler and look at P&C. Much scoring may not be worth parts money - why I have 3-4 saws in parts in boxes.

Will do on checking the cylinder, it feels like a brand new saw compression wise, pulling the rope.

Anyone know a good plug to replace the TorCH R7 spark plug? Can't find anything cross reffin' it...

Edit, I see Champion RCJ7Y replaces it now.

Okay, tore into the saw tonight, the fuel lines were all brittle and just snapped like a dry noodle.. so i wasn't able to see where they went. as in which one supplies the fuel and which one is the primer line that goes from the tank to the bulb to the carb.

when i press the primer bulb, air shoots out of the top fitting/nipple on it, so i would assume that one goes to the carb.
Also it uses a Walbro carb. I notice the link Star gave me lists it as a Zama carbatrator. They look identical so could i swap the walbro for a Zama?

Some photo's.
There are 2 holes in the fuel tank, one is lower in the back corner, so i assume the lower one would go to the fuel line, and the one higher (above fuel level) would go to the primer....
2, This is the only identification of the carb i can find is 'Walbro'.. no numbers or anything else anywhere.

Walbro WTA30 2949, found it
walbro lits it like this on their website WTA-30-1
Found a rebuild kit part number, K20-WTA

Scrubcadet10 said:

Okay, tore into the saw tonight, the fuel lines were all brittle and just snapped like a dry noodle.. so i wasn't able to see where they went. as in which one supplies the fuel and which one is the primer line that goes from the tank to the bulb to the carb.

when i press the primer bulb, air shoots out of the top fitting/nipple on it, so i would assume that one goes to the carb.
Also it uses a Walbro carb. I notice the link Star gave me lists it as a Zama carbatrator. They look identical so could i swap the walbro for a Zama?

Click to expand...

The longer nipple on the primer which should be the one that the air shooting out is the tank return. In your above picture the nipple being held by your thumb is the line from the tank with the fuel filter. the nipple being held by your finger is the one that connects to the short nipple on the primer.

Thanks Ilengine, that's a big help
got a rebuild kit, fuel line and purge line, and filter ordered from PartsTree

well i acted like a fool and lost one of the sealing o-rings where the
low mixture screw goes in, none from my spare 2 cycle carbs fit, and none from my o-ring kit fit, either too small or too big...

I'm not sure if walbro has it available for purchase? https://walbro.force.com/parts/comm_partsservicedetails?partId=a0Fo000000V5CbLEAV

Dunno if Walbro parts that low. I'll look in the old carb box tonite and see if I have one.

dougand3 said:

Dunno if Walbro parts that low. I'll look in the old carb box tonite and see if I have one.

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Thanks, appreciate it!
I got surprise too, i took the side cover and recoil off the saw to get better access to the primer bulb, and apparently Walbro makes the Flywheel... had their name stamped on it.. who knew... i didn't!

call off the hounds! Found a junk walbro carb and robbed one off of it.

is there a tentative setting to start from on L and H screws... I got idling good, but it would die at almost top speed, so i just turned H out 1/4 at a time, then eventually wouldn't even start back up, and then had some fuel running out the muffler, took the spark arrester screen off and cleaned it. and removed the spark plug and pulled the starter a few times to clear it out.
Right now i just set the screws to bottomed out and I'm about to eat... Repairs don't go so smoothly when my blood sugar gets low.

Strato carbs are higher turns. 2, 2.5, 3.0. I had one that wouldn't run until 3.5 out. I dislike strato carbs.

One thing that just dawned on me, I think poulan recommends 50:1, I put 40:1 in it as that's all i had, and it does leave some oily residue on the muffler... I'm going to drain out the 40:1 and put 50:1 in it before i do anything else.
Or the new needle isn't sealing right ........

dougand3 said:

Strato carbs are higher turns. 2, 2.5, 3.0. I had one that wouldn't run until 3.5 out. I dislike strato carbs.

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It is not an air head (Strato) carb. Base settings are 1.5 turns on both mixture screws. When turning tune idle first and then hi speed. They do interact with each other.

Scrub you did set the meter lever height? It is set level with the metering chamber floor. Also make sureyou have the gaskets and diaphragms in the correct order. And yes I have seen the needle seat itself (not the needle and seat contact) to leak on these cubes which is why I pressure test the fuel pump side the carburetors.

And really when everyone will start just using a multi-mix fuel oil. Sure saves times not having to have multiple mix sitting around going bad.

Plus that older Poulan it is 40:1 from the factory but was when oil were not the quality they are today. When the synthetic multi-mix oil I use and sell it is good for anything 50:1 to 16:1 which actually mixed at 50:1.

Got her running good now! apparently 50:1 (VP 2 cycle oil) and adjustment is all she needed ,sawed through some logs like a champ. and idles great and revs without hesitation.
BUT, the thing drinks bar oil, only while running though, it will puddle up if just sitting idling, and really slings it off when revving. when sitting off, the residual drains off and no more leaks. i cleaned it up and while running, the oil appears to be coming from where it is supposed to. Never done anything with a chainsaw oiler before..
i read over on Jacks forum that the Poulan oiler is different than a Husq. ( my dad has a Husq. 445 rancher), of course the poulan saw in the link is a different model than mine.

This is because on the PP5020AV and the P3314 the oil pump is driven by the crankshaft and not by the clutch drum. Most newer saws like the Husqvarna 445 are now clutch drum driven so the oil pump only operates when the chain is moving. but older saws pumped oil the whole time running. Solution for these was to just turn the saw off when not using them.

I got a couple Little Red Homelite saws where the oil pump are crankcase impulse driven the does the same thing. Not a problem as I always turn the saws off before climbing back out the fruit trees that I am trimming. I also got several Poulan Micro 25s style saws and one brand new Husqvarna 450 modified with variable oil pump. I have yet to crank it in the three year that I have own it. Usually don't have reason to as most time I have customer saws to test anyways like small project Sunday where I using a Stihl MS250.

I have had customers bring in the poulans micro xxv and the craftsman variants not oiling. If it is not just the oil line rotted off i tell them i won't do any more. The check valves are NLA and every used one i or a customer gets off a used saw doesn't work. So to avoid charging for labor and not fixing the saw i just tell them i can't fix the oiling issue.

Hammermechanicman said:

I have had customers bring in the poulans micro xxv and the craftsman variants not oiling. If it is not just the oil line rotted off i tell them i won't do any more. The check valves are NLA and every used one i or a customer gets off a used saw doesn't work. So to avoid charging for labor and not fixing the saw i just tell them i can't fix the oiling issue.

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Ever run across a Skilsaw version?

I having to turn away old Homelite saw now as the oil pump diaphragms are no longer available. Owner don't that like that so I say you can always carry around a hand oiler as I did for 10 years for a McCulloch Wildcat I had. Finally had to retire the saw once the PNC wore out.

Never saw a skilsaw version. None of the dealer shops will work on older saw so i get see quite a few. Unfortunately, parts are getting scarce and expensive so i must tell folks i won't work on it. Oil pumps and carb for old saws just make it not worth the cost to fix.

I reckon I have been lucky so far as I very seldom ever replace a carburetor, except on Stihl products where they have Zama no longer providing parts through the normal distribution channels. Stihl has the parts priced in such a way that new carbs are just as cost effective. At least CTS and DC Spares are taking up the challenge of making the repair kits available in after market.

The problem Shil's Zama carburetor is that Zama is now deleting info on the carburetors that are used only on Stihl engines. It took me nearly an half hour yesterday go through converting the C1Q-S282 kit from Stihl to Zama RB kit number. Zama don't even list the S282; just a blank screen. At least I had the Stihl 2019 technical guide with the Stihl kit part number and was able to find other carbs using the same kit then I found one those carbs on the Zama site which had the RB kit number. It is however getting difficult to do this.

My current repair to replace carburetor is over 99:1. Most 2 cycles here once it comes to PNC replacement which some of the newer 2 cycle now only have short blocks available which makes it more cost effective to just replace the unit and fill up the landfills.

Some of the old saw i see have trashed carbs and can't get gaskets for them. Just had one with a weird tillotson on it. Diaphragm was stiff and cracked. Kit i found was ridiculously priced. I like stihl saws. Easy to work on and can get most parts still if cust is willing to use aftermarket. Got a MS251c in couple weeks ago guy burned up the clutch and OEM to fix it same cost as new saw.

StarTech said:

This is because on the PP5020AV and the P3314 the oil pump is driven by the crankshaft and not by the clutch drum. Most newer saws like the Husqvarna 445 are now clutch drum driven so the oil pump only operates when the chain is moving. but older saws pumped oil the whole time running. Solution for these was to just turn the saw off when not using them.

I got a couple Little Red Homelite saws where the oil pump are crankcase impulse driven the does the same thing. Not a problem as I always turn the saws off before climbing back out the fruit trees that I am trimming. I also got several Poulan Micro 25s style saws and one brand new Husqvarna 450 modified with variable oil pump. I have yet to crank it in the three year that I have own it. Usually don't have reason to as most time I have customer saws to test anyways like small project Sunday where I using a Stihl MS250.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info Startech!

sawed up a big sweet gum limb that dropped of a tree a few weeks ago,about 8" in diameter at the base, that saw cut through it like nothing, it really is a woodshark.

Well,, saw started running crappy...
story: saw started bogging RPM's at high speed, and idling high, adjusted it, ran good, then started the same thing later that evening. start it up and it would idle high (enough the chain was spinning, ) and bogging at high rpm.

so i ordered a Zama OEM carb from parts tree and put on it, adjusted it this morning, ran great! Idled for about 5 minutes, good, no chain spinning, didn't hesitate to rev up either. start it back up this evening, idling very high again and chain spinning, L adjustment screw does not affect anything, H screw idles it down good but then bogs at full throttle... i'm at a loss. fuel lines and filter are new as well as the air filter and not clogged and both carb mount gaskets are new. I also dumped out the fuel i mixed, and poured in 50:1 True Fuel. no change.

PartsTree sent me another Zama carb for free, put it on, it required no adjustment, started on the 2nd pull with choke, choke off, idles good without the chain moving, i can pinch the throttle down and it doesn't hesitate at all...
might take apart the "faulty" zama carb and see if there's anything obvious...

Has poulan done anything about their gas caps swelling up?
If I buy a new one will it swell up again?
Husqvarna or Stihl's don't seem to have this problem.
I'm sure is has something to do with Corn Gas.

Not everything has to be related to ethanol, sometimes it is poor choice of materials. There is a lot other chemicals used in 2 cycle fuel mixes. Some manufactures even refuse to solve the problems with fuel items like Tecumseh and their 631028A fuel bowl that swells everytime fuel touches it. But I think Poulan (Husqvarna) has resolved the problem with the fuel caps, only time will tell.

I even had one case on my personal chainsaw where I installed new Tygon fuel lines to only a week later to find completely destroyed that were in the fuel mix. Replaced with the exact same Tygon lines out of the same batch (box) and they are still intact five years later. I chalk that to a bad mix of rubberize plastic in the section that gave the problem.