345 Cylinder Head

H

hockeymath03

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I am in need of a cylinder head for my John Deer 345 garden tractor with Kawasaki engine and 48C mowing deck. I have a screw with extractor lodged in the OHV cover screw holes! I have brought it to local JD dealer and machine shop with no luck. JD no longer has cylinder heads in stock. I need part number M144862. Any leads for me?
screwed.jpg
leak.jpg
As you can see the bottom right hole is fouled.
Kawasaki engine code: FD611V-ES01
 
Last edited:
Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

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this look right? it is USED.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-John-D...Fc-WBB:sc:USPSPriorityFlatRateBox!77303!US!-1

but i notice there since it is a 2 cylinder, there are 2 variations of the head design

the left cylinder head (From sitting in the seat) is part number 11008-6034.
cylinder head on the right is 1008-2131, both numbers are obsolete.

Post some pictures of your problem. maybe someone on here can help you.
 
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bertsmobile1

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hockeymath03 said:
I am in need of a cylinder head for my John Deer 345 garden tractor with Kawasaki engine and 48C mowing deck. I have a screw with extractor lodged in the OHV cover screw holes! I have brought it to local JD dealer and machine shop with no luck. JD no longer has cylinder heads in stock. I need part number JDM139358. Any leads for me?
View attachment 45097
View attachment 45096
As you can see the bottom right hole is fouled.
Kawasaki engine code: FD611V-ES01
Click to expand...

The down side of the web is the Yellow pages have gone.
You need to take that head to a machine shop that does water machining & get the bolt removed.
We have specialists who do this on site for mechanics so if a piddly little country like Australia has one, the USA must have 10,000.
Last time I had one done it was $ 25 ( Aust ) because I went to them .
We had some done on the rear of the left head on the shadow and those were $ 20 each + $ 90 call out which of course was a lot cheaper than a RR head gasket .
 
cpurvis

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The problem is that extractor is as hard or harder than any cutting tool, so a small shop may not have the machinery to do it. I haven't seen a water jet used to remove a tap or extractor but it sounds like Bert has. But I have seen EDM used for that purpose. Find a machine shop with an Electrical Discharge Machining (EDM) machine. It's not a big deal to burn one out. You may have to helicoil it after you get the extractor out.
 
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bertsmobile1

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Yes had that done too but they waer not mobile.
back in the yellow pages days you could just look up "stud removal or broken bolts" and find a dozen shops who could do it for you.
Now days you have to google it and you get 556,000,000 brain dead morons with all sorts of magic solutions (that will not work ) and other urban myths plus the pranksters who think it is funny to put BS on you tube.
If you use a trade index site you get 25,000 shops who paid a brain dead GEEK to list their shop on the web so no matter what the search criteria the engine directs you to their shop regardless of weather it can do the work or not because it is all about getting web hits.
 
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jp1961

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Hello,

I'd take the exhaust pipe off to see if the hole extends into the exhaust port.

At this point, I'd try using a carbide end mill, or carbide drill on a Bridgeport, but with a hardened screw extractor, it would be iffy.


Regards

Jeff
 
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H

hockeymath03

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Scrubcadet10 said:
this look right? it is USED.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-John-D...Fc-WBB:sc:USPSPriorityFlatRateBox!77303!US!-1

but i notice there since it is a 2 cylinder, there are 2 variations of the head design

the left cylinder head (From sitting in the seat) is part number 11008-6034.
cylinder head on the right is 1008-2131, both numbers are obsolete.

Post some pictures of your problem. maybe someone on here can help you.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link. I'm keeping an eye on ebay.
 
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