Using steel lift rods instead of aluminum

Michael_Gee

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"Walt conner is a cocky one with a fix for anything posting his bs on multiple sites. Never a solution you gots to email him. Whats up with that. collecting mail addresses are we? "

The reason I ask to contact me directly is clearly stated plus it keeps know nothings from interrupting things, ring a bell?

Walt Conner

Although it's possible your solution would be long, I'd say post it at least one time and then refer other to that original post. The advantage of that is to have it in a public space instead of having to email it each time to people.
So far, my lawn tractor is working flawlessly but time seems to be my enemy with this model but I'll continue to do the proper maintenance with hopes I won't have get into the engine.
 

bertsmobile1

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Although it's possible your solution would be long, I'd say post it at least one time and then refer other to that original post. The advantage of that is to have it in a public space instead of having to email it each time to people.
So far, my lawn tractor is working flawlessly but time seems to be my enemy with this model but I'll continue to do the proper maintenance with hopes I won't have get into the engine.

That would be fine if one was sure that the original post would remain on line & accessible and the person with the problem was going to search the archives to read it, most won't .
Then there is the problem of it getting lost in a long line of contradictory post usually by face book experts with next to zero practical hands on knowledge.
Then one has to go back and prove to some clot who gets his jollies ( they are always male ) by tearing down others that you are correct but most of these keyboard heros can not follow logic then they bring up all sorts of totally irrelevent web pages by reputable people that are b not appliciable to prove their case.

Look at all the ho har about synthetic oils, most posted by people who have never studied oil & lubrication for even 1 second.
Or the rubbish about exhaust valve recession from the use of unleaded fuels cause by idiots extrapolating lean burn aero engines running at 20,000 feet or higher to vehicles running on terra firma.
Or ethanol fuels ( which are not petrol ) degrading over time and you will get a tyrade of replies from people why have zero understanding of the physics & chemistry behind it chiming in that is is rubbish cause their second cousins brothers uncle runs his mowers on fuel his grandpappy hid in the cellar during the Civil War to prevent them dam Yankees getting their hands on it and everything runs just fine on it .

Then you get people who misquote you and try to make a case out of it,
Note in Post # 3, I mentioned SUB 40000 rpm mower engines , 4000 rpm being the absolute maximum upper rev limit on most mower engines, note LIMIT, not operating speed.
Which then got misquoted in post # 9 as being a running speed.

Now I usually can not be bothered answering such posts as all it dose is waste my time and inflate the ego of the poster.

You came here with a problem, and were given good advice, namely yes you can use a steel rod but you should find and rectify the problem that is causing your alloy rods to break in the middle because this is a rare situation and indicated a problem elsewhere.
Yet rather than accept this you are now turning the thread to attack the very people who are trying to offer you very valuable assistance, free of charge.
I have little time for such behaviour so this will be the last one of your posts that will get a reply from me.
Good luck with your mower but don't be suprised when the rocker stud pulls out or if the steel rod bounces off and trashed the bottom end, we tried to warn you.
 
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Michael Gee .... You guides are in order........... Yes you can use a steel rod in place of the aluminum one....

I do that also.............


Capt. Ferd Bert is referring to racing engines on the higher RPM's.. Racing cranks, cams, Valves ETC ETC.....

I used to race Sprint Karts on oval tracks and you can push 7 to 8 grand in the straight away's on those tracks...... We made better time laps than the stock cars because we weren't sliding around the turns, wasting time..........

Plus Tard Mes Amies ~!~!
 

Tinkerer200

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Michael Gee .... You guides are in order........... Yes you can use a steel rod in place of the aluminum one....

I do that also.............


Capt. Ferd Bert is referring to racing engines on the higher RPM's.. Racing cranks, cams, Valves ETC ETC.....

I used to race Sprint Karts on oval tracks and you can push 7 to 8 grand in the straight away's on those tracks...... We made better time laps than the stock cars because we weren't sliding around the turns, wasting time..........

Plus Tard Mes Amies ~!~!

That original post was a year old. You both have my fix and chose not to defend it?

Walt Conner
 

bertsmobile1

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Sorry Walt.
I actually did not notice the illinformed Mr Gee, a person who has done nothing but accept the help of others , was calling the expert a bs merchant.

SO for the record Walt did email his fix for loose Briggs guides to me and I tried it on an old head that was going to be kept for spare parts and yes it did work.
And yes it is quite a long passage.
Walt is not one to post bs anywhere and like many on this site has gone to great lengths to help people.
He regularly emails people service manuals that are not readily available on line and I for one have benifited greatly from his presence.

As for using pm & off forum emails.
I do not do it myself as it defeats the whole purpose of an open public forum despite regularly being asked to.
Others are welcome to offer assistance in what ever way they chose what is important is they have done so in the past & continue to do so into the future.
Many of the people on this forums are in franchise arangements which preclude them from posting some things publicly.
In fact if a Stihl franchisee is caught doing this they risk loosing their franchise.
 
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Yes I am sorry too... I didn't notice the first part of the thread was a year old........

In fact I was replying to the RPM's of normal engines and racing engines......

I haven't tried your method yet, but I will since I have access to a machine shop.......

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!
 

Tinkerer200

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Note to readers - machine shop work is not required. Suspect trouble maker here was a troll just wanting to stir something up, note number of posts.

Walt Conner
 

geraldfrank

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There has been a lot of discussion about the aluminum push rod. B&S uses aluminum push rods on the rocker arm which is operating the valve involved in compression release. This is NOT for cost reasons. The Intake valve on Intek and the Exhaust valve on V twin Vanguards. Several have used steel as replacement with no apparent problem. HOWEVER, if you broke a push rod in the middle then the problem was not strength. Most likely you will find that the valve guide has moved up and is hitting the valve spring keeper. IF the pushrod didn't break, something else would, usually the rocker arm.

The cause of this is usually a cooling problem, plugged cooling fins and or cooling shroud. The guide should not extend more than 1/8" above the head casting. B&S says the only fix for that condition is a new head. I have a fix however which has been used by dozens over the last several years.

Walt Conner
wconner5 at frontier dot com

Walt Conner is a genius, a scholar and a gentleman. Walt sent me the 'fix' which was easy to accomplish, was up and running in a very short time except for having to split the engine to remove the bent push rod. Fixed the #1 Cylinder exhaust valve guide position without having to remove the head. Have put 6 hours on the machine now and is still running like a clock. Intek V-Twin had bent push rods, one broken in the crank case. Stick with aluminum intake push rods -> save your camshaft should one have a dropped push rod in the future. Save yourself grief by checking the valve lash every 25 hours or so.

Thanks Walt
 

Tinkerer200

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Thanks but no genus. Just a thrifty (stingy) old man who was challenged when B&S said the only fix was to buy a new head. I have other "thrifty" ideas also. Got a variation for my idea from a contact I sent it to who did not remove the head even.

Walt Conner
 
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