New to the forum

brosler

Forum Newbie
Joined
Sep 2, 2014
Threads
1
Messages
2
Howdy from a newcomer.

I'm not a contractor, but I found my way to a commercial walkbehind about 15 years ago as it was the best option to cut my lawn clean and fast. I've never looked back since. The mower I've been using for that duration was a kind-of junkie 20+ year old Bunton Bullet 48", with a Kohler command 14 vertical shaft motor.

Unfortunately my beloved Bunton recently developed what is likely its last problem. I've done a bunch of diagnostics on it - not including a leak-down test (I don't have the equipment) - and I'm stuck. Lacking a mower, I hopped onto Craigslist and located a newer mower, a 10 year old Bobcat 48" with a Kawasaki 15 twin cylinder.

Items I am hoping the forum can help me with.
1) The Kohler has 0 compression ... nothing - zip, zero, nada. I've checked the valves and they are still operating. Lacking a leak-down test setup I can only guess at what's going on. One observation I have is that the intake and exhaust valves have different "resting" states. When the exhaust valve is in its "closed" position the rocker is relatively loose - when the intake valve is in it's closed position, the rocker is still tight against the valve stem. Without the leak-down test I can't tell if the intake is leaking or not, but I'm still left wondering if this symptom is suggesting that the intake valve is blown or if the hydraulic valve system has gone haywire?

2) The Kawasaki is running rich in both cylinders. The engine seems to pull strong enough, but its RPM seem to oscillate a bit under load. It also hunts a bit at idle. I've seen rebuild kits for this carb online, but are the adjustments and settings finicky? In a case like this, is it wiser to just pickup a full replacement carb and just do a swap-out?
 

brosler

Forum Newbie
Joined
Sep 2, 2014
Threads
1
Messages
2
More on the Kohler saga. I continued to fuss with it - eventually coming to the conclusion that I had it upside-down - that it must be the exhaust valve. After some more diagnostics, I pulled the head and sure enough, the exhaust valve is wedged in the open state by about 3/16". Once I removed the valve spring I was able to see that that valves sleeve bearing has drifted down into the head, and it's the sleeve bearing that is preventing the valve from closing.

Why did this happen? I imagine that I might be able to tap/move that bearing up into the head if I can get enough heat onto the head, but I'm not sure if this is the right way to go. Does anyone have any experience with this?

Thanks
- Bruce




Howdy from a newcomer.

I'm not a contractor, but I found my way to a commercial walkbehind about 15 years ago as it was the best option to cut my lawn clean and fast. I've never looked back since. The mower I've been using for that duration was a kind-of junkie 20+ year old Bunton Bullet 48", with a Kohler command 14 vertical shaft motor.

Unfortunately my beloved Bunton recently developed what is likely its last problem. I've done a bunch of diagnostics on it - not including a leak-down test (I don't have the equipment) - and I'm stuck. Lacking a mower, I hopped onto Craigslist and located a newer mower, a 10 year old Bobcat 48" with a Kawasaki 15 twin cylinder.

Items I am hoping the forum can help me with.
1) The Kohler has 0 compression ... nothing - zip, zero, nada. I've checked the valves and they are still operating. Lacking a leak-down test setup I can only guess at what's going on. One observation I have is that the intake and exhaust valves have different "resting" states. When the exhaust valve is in its "closed" position the rocker is relatively loose - when the intake valve is in it's closed position, the rocker is still tight against the valve stem. Without the leak-down test I can't tell if the intake is leaking or not, but I'm still left wondering if this symptom is suggesting that the intake valve is blown or if the hydraulic valve system has gone haywire?

2) The Kawasaki is running rich in both cylinders. The engine seems to pull strong enough, but its RPM seem to oscillate a bit under load. It also hunts a bit at idle. I've seen rebuild kits for this carb online, but are the adjustments and settings finicky? In a case like this, is it wiser to just pickup a full replacement carb and just do a swap-out?
 

Briana

Lawn Addict
Joined
Jul 23, 2010
Threads
22
Messages
1,550
Welcome to LawnWorld!

:welcome:
 
Top