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This thread should be deleted. Hopeless case.

With the engine warm, drain as much oil as possible. Use and aluminium pie plate to form a trough beneath the Filter.

I digress. The Planet continues to Evolve as it always has. The Ice Age was only 15,000 years ago. Climate change is real but only a tiny percentage is caused by mankind. WE didn't start it and we Cannot stop it. A volcano emits as much crap in an eruption as we do in a Year. Learn to live...

A 21 or 22" will suit you well. You can often find suitable and reconditioned older mowers for $200 or less. Skip the Mulcher/bagger types. 1/3 acre ( 14,520 square Feet) minus home/garage, laneway, trees etc isn't much to mow. Older 3+HP Briggs and Stratton powered (not the newer Chinese...

Only mow when grass is Tinder Dry. After changing the oil, I remove my Deck in the Fall and turn it upside down on a gravel area and pour the used oil into it, swabbing it on all sides and protruberances. Leave it overnite to soak into rusted areas.

Go to a Dealer, get a new one. Done.

Great.

I expect the Flywheel Key is slightly deformed.

No photo but I found on a recent restoration of a LA125 that the trunnions on each side were badly worn on the 'P' Bolts.

I believe at least 2 of the Flat Idler pulleys are loose and need replacement . Put the front deck control arm back where it was and loosen off the Nut to replace it. Level the deck with front 1/8" lower than rear. Belt appears OK.

I suggest a fuel diagnosis. Sounds like it is running Lean. The usual suspects, carb/filters. Check Valve Lash.

Be sure the Bendix shaft is well lubricated.

MAP gas is still obtainable and is much hotter than Propane.

Tire could have been Rotted too........

Leave Rim leak detection for a few minutes before looking. I use Windshield Washer fluid or Snoop if you can get it. Don't forget the Tread and sidewall areas and Valve Core.

Well done. Check the belt for correct WIDTH. To narrow = too loose. Get a new one from Dealer of proper size. Check Spindles and Idler pulleys first.

The Bore looks to be in very good condition. Be sure Valve Guide clearance is adequate. What gauge were you using to check compression. There must have been some! Carefully reassemble, Torque Gaskets and set valves per spec. It should run fine unless there is a camshaft problem. Be sure...

On some machines IF you have a Reverse switch, the wires can rub on the Manual Shaft under the dash and short out.

You may be happier with a Self Propelled 20-22" push Mower

You may be happier with a Self Propelled 20-22" walk behind Mower for that small lawn.

You may be happier with a Self Propelled 20-22"

Compression Release only affects compression when starting. Change your Fuel and Air Filter, then drain Float bowl. You may need to remove emulsion tube and clean out all jets.

You may be happier with a Self Propelled 20-22" walk behind mower. That is quite a tiny lawn and good exercise.

The FINAL ANSWER. Thanks Mark.

Mow when the grass is dry and humidity below 47%

He is referring to an electric mower. One speed.

Be sure that the belt is the correct WIDTH as well as length. I just restored a LA125. Belts also wore through the guards. I pop riveted a piece of SS on the outside. Some shields had a metal pin in them to stop this. The squawk might be from the Clutch. Try the old PTO cable if you still...

Sell the E mower.

Remove Fuel tank Cap and fuel line at filter. Blow back the line carefully with minimum pressure. Do this outside, off the driveway and don't be looking in the tank while you do it. Then blow the other direction using low pressure. If fuel flows OK, continue to removing Float bowl and be...

Disconnect the present Battery and try a known Good Battery. Engage Parking Brake, handles in Start Position. Then start checking safety switches. No stuck plunger etc. Check Battery Ground to Frame.

I suggest you take it to a repair shop and ask them or have them do it if possible.

Likely a 42" deck with 2 Blades.

I suspect one of the spindles is seized a bit and/or Belt is too loose. Get it up in the air and with Blade rotation OFF, reach under and see if they rotate with equal ease. Sorry for your luck. Check what was done on last service call and get your BF to man up.

No.

It isn't a Reactor. A couple swipes on the bench grinder Coarse side and done. No need for razor sharpness which will dull quickly. Balance if you can.

10W30 tends to be lower viscosity when cold. Other than that Advantage, Use it in any mower.

Use 10 or 20W 30. No big deal. Event Closed.

Your mower will not know the difference between Synthetic and Real.

Thats a bargain.

Engage the Parking Brake and flip seat back. + to +. Do NOT jump with a vehicle with the vehicles engine Running. Catastrophic failure of your Mower Stator can result.

An old filter from a Coffee Maker will also work. ALWAYS filter the fuel. Some Funnels have an integral screen.

Attach the Ground cable to the mower frame and the + cable to the Solenoid.post that does NOT connect to the Battery. Key start should then work.

Sounds like you should hire a Lawn Care Service.

Check for a DOM (Date of Manufacture) on the Identity plate. They run the numbers together!

Take it back to the Dealer

The Cup and Cone LM numbers are Timken tapered Roller Bearing Numbers. I worked in the St. Thomas Ontario plant in the '60's grinding the OD of Cones. 3,600 per shift, one at a time!

The Cup and Cone LM numbers are Timken tapered Roller Bearing Numbers. I worked in the St. Thomas Ontario plant in the '60's grinding the OD of Cones. 3,600 per shift, one at a time!

Buy a new F'ing tire!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Trade it in on a Bush Hog attachment.