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Spray some WD down around the button then check under hood to make sure the connector is on tightly

I was told 3 companies make all the Oil Filters, just paint them differently.

Your description indicates that it is running in a lean condition. Try giving it a small bit of Choke. If that cures it, then you need a carb /cleanout/rebuild, perhaps opening up the main jet beneath the Emulsion Tube a tiny bit. Remove hose at filter and Run some Carb Cleaner directly into...

IMHO, far too much force on the arbour. Use a big vise with 5/8" rod vertical.

Never lend your tools, vehicles or wife. That must have been some rain!

Well done sir.

Don't overthink this. Run it for 30 minutes and note any changes. Clear Crankcase vent tube. Oil at correct level? Ring Dia appears correct. 0.004" per inch of bore is nominal. Did you stagger the ring ends 120°? They must NOT be aligned. Re torque head bolts when Cold. Not worth...

Check for CrankCase Vent FIRST.

I am not familiar with this engine. Is it Liquid cooled? If not, perhaps you have some water in the fuel. Do a compression check or Pressure test the Crankcase.

Shops have NOT relined Brake shoes or Clutch discs in over 60 years!. Buy some rivets from perhaps a shoe repair place or just use countersunk pop rivets. You could try crazy glue. Clamp pieces in vise after application.

Glad you got it to rotate. Keep an eye on the oil level after you run it.

Since you don't know enough about Diesel or other engines (they don't have a Carb) best to buy one if you must have a Diesel or use what you have. Oversize Rings??????????? uh no.

High tension lead from coil is likely faulty. Replace coil and wire. You should check compression first.

Thanks, that would be over $60 Canadian!

Please send me one for a JD X320. Thank You.

If you have removed and cleaned the Negative cable where it attaches to the Frame and the other Battery cable ends, try to find a multi terminal connector near the Ignition switch. Open it and look for crusty greens and spray it with Electrical connector fluid. Carefully put it back together...

Please STUDY the Manual if you have one. Drain the Float bowl if you are able carefully replace it marking the Orientation if you do. Some bowls have an obvious drain. Snowblowers do not have air filters. Studies have shown there is no dust during snow events. Drain ALL the fuel out of the...

Let it come to an idle for a minute or so before shutting down.

I think you should leave the Engine alone.

Use 10W30 Full synthetic and don't think it to death. Follow Manufacturers recommendations when in doubt.

Mike: Remove the tire from the wheel and do a Haynes Test. Slowly wipe a nylon around the inside of the tire. It will catch on the smallest protrusion. When you are satisfied there is nothing inside, note the Tire and Rim size and get a Tube for it. This gives you an new valve as well as...

It is a simple HOSE. Go to a Garage or Parts store and buy a comparable one!!!!

Cut the hose, add 4' in the middle and install.

The belt numbers are often illegible from running the backsides over Idlers. I am wondering how we ever got as far as sliced bread!!!

Is that Metric? Boycott all ads.

EXCELLENT Response. Follow it.

You answered your own question!

I suspect one of the Spindles or bearings have seized up. Try turning each pulley by hand. You have also likely overheated/burned the belt. Check Clutch operation as well. Does it engage?

When an engine won't start, I try Starting Fluid. If it fires and dies, likely a Fuel Problem. If it does not fire, likely electrical - Coil and or Spark plug.

I am quite sure you can replace the Drive Belt without removing that Pulley.

If your Paddle type Snow Blowers don't have a Fuel Pump, they don't Suck! If a fuel line has any sort of split, it will leak Fuel.

Some of the debris you find beneath the filter can come from the Crankcase breather depending on how it is routed.

Most Solar systems rely on one or many batteries to store power. Then an Invertor switches the DC Battery current to AC. KISS. Keep It Simple!

Suggest to your friend that she holds one lever still and steers with the other.

Do you find any particles in the Float bowl? Is the fuel going into the crankcase as well? Drain the fuel tank and save a half cup in a glass container and leave that sit. Remove the Fuel filter if you have one and blow the line back into the tank with Fuel Cap off. Get All the Fuel out of...

T The Change to metric from Normal is thanks to the LIEberals in Canada. Rated HP became a huge problem when JD was caught exaggerating the true HP. They paid Dearly for this. Now Small engines are measured in Torque Ft or in. pounds which few understand. HP is how fast you hit the wall...

If it doesn't fire with Quick Start then it is an electrical issue. If it fires and quits, a fuel issue.

Is there a Crankcase Vent that may be plugged? Oil overfilled?

ALL: Keep your spare Fuel Containers FULL. Use within 30 days if possible. Don't drain out the last dregs when emptying them. If you cannot run the equipment Dry (some fuel remaining in the tank) Fill it and Cap it. The enemy is moisture in the AIR which enters the tank through any vent...

Engines now made in China. The Name is the same but not the quality.

Sounds like broken rings or scored cylinder. Try blowing air back into the Crankcase from the Fuel pump pulse line with dipstick out. Plugged vent?

JUST RUN THE ENGINE DRY OF FUEL. DONE!

The 'click' means the Fuel Solenoid is working I believe. Remove and Clean all battery connections including Grounds. Use a cable to go directly from + Battery post to Starter. That will narrow your problem. If you have a connector near the key switch with multiple wires, open it and clean...

I think it is time to put this Issue to the grave.

Too many ads!

Our out of touch Govt has legislated Ethanol in ALL Gasolines, including Premium. Idiots. Keep full cans tightly sealed and run carb Dry and drain float bowl at end of Season.

Well Done