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Doesn't the same effect on the coil happen when you run a 2 cylinder on only one plug wire. As in removing one plug wire, starting it, then repeating the process with the other side? The electricity being created by the coil with the disconnected plug wire has to go somewhere also. Right?

.02 isn't exactly right. But it's not enough to really be concerned about. It' wasn't a sloppy .06.

Any tips on removing a plug wire while the engine is running. I know that sounds like a rookie question. But the first and only time I've done it (decades ago), I got the fire knocked out of me, and never tried it again.

I checked them. They're fine. .06.

I didn't mess with that part of the carb. As I didn't have replacement gaskets. And mainly because the rest of the carb was just too clean to think there was any need to get into that far.

Yes, sprayed carb cleaner through every hole, keeping an eye on the stream that comes out the other end. Especially to two ports that come out into the venturi. Ran the guitar strings and probes through the holes and the jets. Replaced one intake mounting gasket. It was very clean.

There was no water in the carb. It's kept under a car port. But here in Arkansas, that doesn't mean much, as we have high humidity all year long

I got the new tester in (after I returned it). When I get back over there, I'll see what the spark looks like. Customer says it's funning fine now. But I'm thinking she just can't hear what I hear.

I checked the valves, they were at .06. Close enough.

One thing I noticed about this engine with the bad coil....... It didn't backfire.

Thank you. Also @Auto Doc's @Forest#2 and the others for this imput. That explains what I'm missing. Tester ordered.

True that. But what I'm supposed to be looking at is gaps between sparks, instead of a constant blinking, correct? Even with the junk ones like I have, these gaps are visible. I did notice some gaps in the spark. But they didn't coincide with the backfiring. As in many times there was several...

With the spark testers I have, I see no formidable differences between either side. Note: They're not adjustable air gap spark testers. But I they do show when exactly the voltage comes through. Both sides glow bright.

Here's the video. I'm not touching the throttle. The RPM's went down on their own. A few seconds later, they came back up.

The carb is clean as a whistle. Even the bowl had almost nothing in it. The valves were at about .06. So I didn't mess with them.

Tried your suggestion but, nothing changed. But I have a side question about what happened when I tried this. With the wires disconnected from the coils, then turning the key off, 3 seconds later, the engine dies on it's own. Reconnected the coil wires, then turn the key off, it dies right...

Oh lord. I hope not.

407777 0188 B1 On a service call, started out, this thing ran like crap. Lot's of back firing through the exhaust. After about 10 minutes of it running & mowing, it seemed to clear up. It was still backfiring, but in spurts, it would completely clear up for several seconds. Maybe even a...

I thought there was something wrong with the muffler, because it sounds a little like a chainsaw.

This bass is as big as the legendary bass. But if you catch it at Clemens point, it doesn't register as legendary.

Just things I want to share with others here.

My horses

That Tanaka turned out to be a beast. I love it.

I found the low idle RPM. But can't find the WOT RPM spec. This one is running right at 6,900 to 7,000. It sounds like it could run more, safely. But it's got limiters on it. Anyone know what the RPM's are supposed to be at WOT?

Have you ever had that happen between two teeth? It's quite the challenge.

It doesn't have an oil sensor on it. From him, yesterday. "Update: after we talked Wed..& chipper would not restart. Thurs I took carb off again and cleaned again...wire, carb spray, and air....also changed oil. Put back together..no start. Left it and went to Texarkana..back...

I finally told him to either bring it to me, or sell it. If it sits for a while, (I don't know how long, because he leaves it for a couple days then takes another stab at it), it'll crank and run fine. When he shuts it off, and tries to restart it, he get's nothing. Even with starter fluid...

Something to do with the kill switch, maybe? Or one of those wires?

It's not electric start.

Wood chipper, sight unseen. Just talking to a friend who lives over an hour away. Discussing this over the phone. He pulled it out of storage and ran it for a while. Said he changed the plug (RJ19LM) removed the tank and cleaned out. Put it back on with fresh gas and fired it up. Said he...

This works pretty good. I do have a weird new noise coming from underneath. It sounds like someone is fumbling around in a plastic bucket. And the clutch/brake wiggles sometimes. But, the mower is faster and the belt stays on.

Maybe replace it with something like this? With the set screw.

I just did an engine swap on my husq. It did have an electric PTO. But now it has no deck or any kind of PTO. It's simply for pulling the trailer. But when I press the clutch/brake too far, the belt comes off at the engine pully. That might be where yours is off also. And it would hard to...

M# LGT2654 Product # 960450047 S# 061815A031116 Briggs 407777 0274 G5 A couple of issues here. This engine has the smaller crank because it had the manual PTO. The rider it's on now, once had an electric PTO. Using the crank & deck pulley, the deck belt pulley rubs the drag links when I turn...

What a headache this has turned into. I decided to lengthen the tail pipes so they'd reach at least 1/2 in into the muffler that fit. I finally got that done, but now something else is off. I just has to walk away from it for a day or two.

My blessings ran out when I got to the muffler.

It looks like I'm going to have to weld extensions onto the Briggs tail pipes and go with the muffler that came with the Kohler. That's the only way to get the muffler mounting plate bolted in the right direction, and the hood mounting rod back in and the pipes deep enough to go into the...

Not a thing. I was grinning from ear to ear when I seen it. :D:D:D

How are the plugs holding up? I'm out of the RC12YC's, but have some of these BKR5ES's. Also, what's the gap for the BKR's? .30?

After buttoning up a few things, It fired up and ran smooth as a kitten. I couldn't test drive it because the seat safety switch needs to be done away with. All of them, in fact. And I'm going to have to find a different size drive belt. But the alternator, at high idle was charging the...

I generally don't get this lucky. Note my pessimism.. :);) I'm a firm believer in "If it's too good to be true, then it probably is."

M# LGT2654 Product # 960450047 S# 061815A031116 Briggs 407777 0274 G5 It used to have a Kohler twin cylinder on it. But switching to a Briggs from a JD. This is just going to be for pulling a yard trailer. No electric PTO anymore or deck, since the Brigg's has the smaller crank, from a JD...

You're lucky. Because replacing the cam is a major teardown.

Those multiple problems with one issue can turn into a real headache. Test something fails, fix that and the test still fails because it wasn't just the one thing you fixed. All that head scratching leads to a bald spot.

Well, apparently this Husqvarna has two different ID's on each side of the rim. So only one bearing fits. The inside. The outside of the wheels ID, is about 1 1/4. I can't find .75 X 1.25 bearings anywhere. Everyone and their dog has 1 3/8ths ID. Update. Scratch all that. Those other...

If the spindle is warn, I can probably weld it up and grind it down, til it fits snug. I replaced the bushings for bearings in my little garden trailer. All that squeaking was driving me crazy. No grease fittings, so it was kind of a pain to grease it. Now I may never have to grease it...

Maybe 30 minutes after I posted this, I found these bearing kits. It should be way better than those bushings they call bearings.

Anyone every tried using a real bearing instead of these? I'm not even sure why they call these bearings. Flange Bearing. Model # LGT2654 S# 960450047

Stens oil claims to have zinc. That's what I use.