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"The brake and seat safety switches seem to be good since the starter works when the key is turned." You'll have to diagnose the electrical issue with a meter over the "seems to be good" method. Isolate all the switches or test continuity to "verify" ALL the switches work as designed. I...

I built a tool like his video described but I needed to adjust by experience instead. I pull 180# (me) plus a fully loaded Cyclone Rake (Classic) with no issues. Wheelies? Heck yeah!

Jims Fixit has one of the best tutorials and shows you his homemade tool you can use.

Yes, its the rubber disc. Videos from Jims Fix It series should get you there. These are things to check. Not necessarily needed but its the area to focus on.

You would need to check the drive disc area. You'll probably need adjustments to where it hits in 1st gear and may need to adjust the contact pressure? Might need a new drive disc too? That's a good place to start.

I can't speak for the "best" year or model. I like my mid-80's RER 28" (Snapper RER 28085S) that was given to me by my father-in-law. Rebuilt, put a Honda on it and its been awesome for me. Does everything I've asked and ALOT more. Pull a Classic Cyclone rake too. Parts availability is about 80%...

I did the same thing and cut my deck too. Replace blade, blade holder. Next is to find why the spindle is hard to turn. They are pretty robust bearings but you could have damaged those.

Jim's Fix-it. A+

Agreed. I held mine with the top nut and smacked it with a hammer as it does un-thread. I'm also not sure which way it tightens/loosens. There might be spacers underneath too..

1. You can diagnose switches with a cheap continuity tester. 2. Did you change oil? Reason is it may have dumped fuel in oil, thus contaminating oil. 3. Air filter clean or off? 4. Adjust new carb and you're on your way. :o)

Here are some pics of the Snapper and Cyclone Rake. I just pulled it up from the basement for use this year. Disassembly and assembly are a breeze. It takes about 10-15 minutes to put together. They engineered it to be assembled/disassembled very fast tool-less. A+ 1. Cyclone Rake parts...

If you had a NIB Bag-n-Wagon, I'd be interested. Along with many others for sure. They are like gold.(y)

That's great. I assume your looking to sell these? or maybe not? If your looking to sell, I'm sure they will help someone out there to keep their vintage Snapper moving forward. :)

Yes, Jim Jackson is a great start for information. I rebuilt my RER using alot of his videos for help. -Matt

Thanks. I disassembled the whole mower, sandblasted, repainted, repowered with Honda. Came out decent. Pulls the full Cyclone Rake.

I recently purchased a used Classic Cyclone Rake for my older 28" RER Snapper. I had done searches but really didn't find anything specifically on how the RER and Cyclone Rake would work. Maybe I missed it in my search? Anyways, here is my experience for anyone looking to purchase and not sure...

Yes, I would be interested. Seems like a lot of people want one and if I could get my hands on one to copy, I just might offer parts to build or at least post plans and dimensions. -Matt M

And here is where they would go according to the diagram. Matt

Yes, Mom's day weather-wise wasn't too bad in upstate NY. Thx I think your switch is fine with 3 prongs. Here is the wiring diagram for 3 pole switch off a Snapper. Changing switches will require adding extra wires. Do you really want to do that? :o) Update: If the switch isn't marked on the...

Good catch. I missed that and being this machine went from a 10HP > 8Hp > 14HP currently, it may not have the appropriate wiring or connector yet for that? Same for the charging circuit. I think I'd be happy to get it to the cranking stage with key. Running is secondary with all the interlocks...

To me it looked like a 4 terminal solenoid so yes. Here is a diagram from Google which should help understand what that solenoid is doing. Google is your friend... The solenoid is grounded by the unit itself so no ground wire is needed. Feed the key switch from battery with 12v B (blue), on...

So let me explain what that magneto ground wire does. Without that wire or that wire connected to anything the engine will run. Connecting that wire to a potential ground (not grounded at the time) so at any time you need to stop the engine, you push a button, turn off switch, interlock is...

OK, it looks like you have a mess right? A cheap continuity tester will be invaluable even when you get all the wires sorted. Harbor Freight has these for under $10 if you don't have one. So, to start... (and color of wires may be what I specify or not. You have to trace each one to be sure)...

Re: Snapper RER 28085S Restore - Electrical Wiring Update I have added an updated electrical wiring diagram to show my 10 A fuse and the safety interlock location. Thanks, Matt

That's great as this is a common issue for RER's. On my rebuild I made an aluminum spacer due to excessive play but not everyone has access to a lathe. The spacer took up the play leaving me a few of the nylon spacers to insert as it wears. This thread should prove helpful to others. Thanks, Matt

I made quite a bit of progress over the weekend... 1. Installed the deck back onto the main frame. 2. Installed a fresh belt and adjusted the tension to slip enough when cutter not engaged. I had to loosen the tube clamp and make the adjustments to the belt and then recheck that all my pedals...

The deck is complete and ready to be mounted. Before : After: Matt ;o)

Here is a simple wiring diagram for the Snapper Honda GXV-390 repower. 1. In my haste I didn't realize the Honda already had a solenoid next to the starter. I already had a generic solenoid mounted and decided to use mine, In the case it ever goes bad, I'll switch over to the Honda's. So in...

While waiting for the paint to dry on the deck and deck parts I started working on the electrical wiring of the Snapper. I decided to eliminate the interlock for the cutting deck but kept the interlock for the Park safety switch. It's more likely to try to start in gear than have a start...

I'm starting on the electrical wiring and in parallel I wanted to start on the 2nd phase of the build. The cutting deck needs to be disassembled, cleaned, painted and reassembled. *An impact gun definitely helps with disassembly of the main pulley nut and the blade bar nut. These are on...

I think I missed showing the rebuild of the front end. All new bushings, keys and greased. Took the slop out of the steering by adding some extra washers behind the tie rods. Matt

Thanks for others who have done the Briggs to Honda repower... The throttle hookup from the Briggs to Honda needs to be modified. The original Briggs cable is about 14" long as shown in the image below. The cable attached to the Briggs engine horizontally where the Honda will be located...

Progress... Main Chassis: Things are going back together pretty smoothly. The Aux Brake cable I had to think about but with the images and some of the web's videos I did get it routed correctly. Engine Pre Mounting: SO for the engine, I needed to recheck to see if the mounting locations are...

Just a few updates to the build... Rear Axle Boot: OK, mental note to not slather a ton of grease on the hex tube. If you do, or over do, make sure the ends of the boots stay clean. Otherwise you will have the boot want to slip off under extended travel. On, off, clean, rinse and repeat. I had...

So the first image shows just how much the yoke attachment is out of round. My intentions were to Tig weld the hole up but then have to grind away the washers. I went with "Plan B" which was to take a sheet of (1/8") 0.125" steel and fabricate an angled yoke holder. I bent the steel 90...

Here is my rear axle spacer from a piece of aluminum round stock I had turned on a Grizzly G0602 variable speed lathe. I wanted to create a spacer thick enough so I could remove the nylon spacers for the initial build. As everything wears, I'll have the nylon spacers to put back in...

So the last of the larger pieces and luckily the front and rear both fit into the blast cabinet. That just makes paint prep easier. Time for more assembly. Stay tuned.... Matt

Progress being made... Edit: I also want to credit "jimsfixitshop" videos that I'm referencing. He's got a nice 7 part series rebuilding the Snapper RER. While mentioned below I find things a little different in assembly from his to mine. For those differences, I'll point them out for my 1985...

OK. I have the heater working in the garage so I can get my pieces primed and painted. Using Rustoleum Gloss Cherry Red for the topcoat. Making progress and hopefully I'll get the case and front end prepped and painted. I'm thinking I can get the main case into the blast cabinet? Hopefully...

I'm still waiting for a few parts for the rear end and the weather in the northeast to warm up for painting. Yesterday I did get to press in the new rear axle bushings. I used a HF 20 ton press with a set of HF Maddox 10pc Bearing Race and Seal driver kit. The HF stuff works great for this small...

Hello all, I've always found great info on forums so I'll add my experience (or lack of) with restoring a Snapper RER 28085S that was given to me by my father-in-law. I already have it in pieces so I'll start the build up there. I think most can take things apart? It's getting them back...

Hi, My name is Matt and I'm from upstate NY (mid-Hudson Valley). New here but hoping to get some knowledge and give back as well. I've always said if someone took the time to explain and give feedback on forums that I used to save me time then I should do the same. And will. I'm restoring an...