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i did say it can help...not a definate...and other mowers besides craftsman use the opposed brigg twins where the hp was fixed to the model...

if you can tell us whattractor model number this came off of there will be info on the engine hp rating which can help identify the model 42 or 44 or 46...

ive had older twins not start so easy because of the reduced crankcase pressure due to age wear...still runs good but the osolating crankcase pressures dont work well enough to get the fuel pump to work correctly at low rpms...replacing with a low pressure...2.5 to 4 psi...low volume...80 liters...

ive checked literally hundreds of coils this way over time...if it reads between 2.5K and 5k ohms...its good...outside this range is bad...worked every time...outside the lower and upper limits has identified if the coil is bad every time without exception...been doing this for almost 50 years...

if the engine runs for 5 minutes then dies after heating up...the carb is fine...the coil or grounding is an issue along with a possible gas cap vent issue...if you test the coil resistance and its good...gounding or gas cap is an issue. .if the engine stopping is an inconsistant time then...

like most said...change the plug first...clean the grounding surfaces between the coil and the engine mount...id also test the coil resistance...positive to the plug boot and neg to the external metal fork of the coil...resistance ohms should be between 2.5k to 5k ohms...anything above or below...

same here with similar issues with both briggs and kohlers in need of choke flap fully closing from time to time...

ok...those rear engine snapper riders have a kill lead from the coil that attaches to a isolated mounting post with 2 others wires...one is from the ignition key and the other is from the safety relay that all the safety switches pass thru to kill the engine. disconnect the wire from the safety...

for the record...once again your method requires another tool to validate the process...this time a pressure pump with a gauge...im offering a simple proven method that has worked well for me which was taught to me at a briggs service class many years ago...when you dont know the layout or setup...

you take of maybe 1mm if youre lucky polishing the brass seat...thats non existant to the level of the float...plus blowing as hard as you can is more than effective to pressure test the seat if you maintain pressure for about 15 seconds...ive repaired well over a thousand that way....done with...

hmm...a work bench with a vise isnt needed as well...like i said not everyone has what is needed...beside ive repaired plenty without even removing the old seat using valve lapping compound...a Q tip...and carb cleaner...put some lapping compound on the tip...clean the opposite end and install...

you know it takes more than what you listed to remove a brass seat from a walbro carb...but i digress to your experience...im just a 65 year old man with limited knowledge...

just pointing out the possibilities of whats wrong...those walbro carbs has a brass seat and he might not be skilled enough to replace if the seat is corroded preventing the rubber tip needle to shut off fuel flow in the carb...

that model number info shows its a 21hp single cylinder kohler courage engine plus if your carb bowl gasket is leaking its most likely a bad float needle seat setup not properly sutting off fuel flow...youll need to either rebuild the carb or replace it because the gas getting past the bowl...

did you disconnect the kill lead when you tried to get the spark turning the engine over...if not...disconnect the kill lead from the coil and try for spark...if nothing try cleaning the coil mounting points to insure a good ground connection for the coil...a lot of times a stretched out kill...

i know he said it needed a sump gasket but he also said he'll be doing head gaskets as well because of his concern about failures and wanted to let him know about a much better option.

i would suggest you check with coppergasket63 on ebay to get a set of copper head gaskets to replace you conventional ones...stops the blowouts and can be reused once annealed...about 2x the cost of oem gaskets

whats the actual male of the engine.. take a photo of the model no.and post it here...

i did say i dont believe...didnt say it was a fact...was pointing out another possibility to the problem at hand...

first off i dont believe kohler made EFI engines in 07...they still made DAS coils...Digital Advanced Spark...with external control box on the commands and electronics buried in the coils of the courage engines...if you have a 3 prong plug going to your coil its a DAS setup...the fix is to go...

Briggs make an oil dipstick tube assy with a molded boss for the rectifier regulator...heres a link for one...https://www.ebay.com/itm/115428803641?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=XACKwX_4TpW&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=k_lEUtjMRLi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

you're right that does suck but usually the newer one dont need replacing or rebuilding right away....thats just bad luck...

there are aftermarket kits to rebuild the stihl carbs...ive also purchased the sftermarket carbs with very little issues...maybe 2 out of 100...

technology isnt there...especially with thick or wet grass which happens with weather not cooperating...cant always choose ideal and have the battery last half as long or less...

well for one, you dont have any kind of choke setup...you have a primer bulb setup designed to place gas into the carb intake tube to allow the engine to start from the extra gas in the tube...you dont have autochoke or a choke flap at all...second...when does it stall out and how steep is your...

Ive worked on both...if you want the torque power to cut thru the heavy tall grass...hands down the stihl FS91R 4mix engine is the best choice...plus they are way more environmentally friendly because they dont allow up to 30% of raw gas to escape into the atmosphere...it does a complete burn...

Ok...you said it worked after you cleaned it...no longer dumping gas out the carb...then started again a while later...sounds like maybe debris in the fuel tank or a fuel line and or filter discentgrating causing the needle not closing...id replace the feul line and filter and reclean your carb...

Thats because all the aftermarket carbs for walbro kohler style carbs have fixed idle jets...the oem had adjustable low speed jet to smooth out the high speed oscillation....thats why i dont buy them but all the briggs ones have thT jet adjustment to take care of the hunting...

I've been repairing mowers for almost 50 years...the last 20 years ive been using the aftermarket chinese carbs for briggs...either the nikki or walbro style with maybe 2 issues over 200 carbs...OEM gets 4 markups before its sold to you...briggs buys almost all ov their carbs in china now...the...

those aftermarket kohler walbro style carbs are the problem..the OEM walbro carb has an adjustable idle jet that helps eliminate high speed surging...those aftermarket carbs are fixed idle jet with no adjustment...3 choices...get a rebuild kit for the original carb...buy the right OEM carb with...

Do you have a seperate choke lever or control? If not then pushing the full throttle all the way engages the choke flap for startup. Once running you pull back on the throttle till it runs smooth. That position is full throttle. Take a picture of your throttle and or choke setup on your ariens dash.

Make up some bags with moth balls...keep most pest away...i make out of burlap sacks and tie off...put around the equipment...