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Why would you care if gas shot out of the plug hole? He said it just gives one click. It doesn't turn over. I think it may be a broken wire.

Are you turning the switch on? The electric start probably has an "ignition on" position and that allows spark to the plug and needs to be on for either electric or manual starting.

Take a piece of the line with you and match it.

Get one from the engine manufacturer. Go online and find the spring. Get one from a small engine repair shop.

Add an additive to the gas to eliminate any moisture in the fuel. Have you tried shooting gas into the cylinder to see if it will fire up? If it won't fire up, then there is possibly a lack of compression and needs a rebuild. The starting fluid is more volatile and will fire easier than gas.

Of course, be sure the engine fins are clean for good air around the cylinders. As your engine ages, the piston rings wear, as do, the cylinder bores. As they wear, there will be more "air" sneaking down into the oil pan/sump, past the rings causing the oil to gain temperature. When the engine...

If you have 90lbs., don't bother tearing it down. You're not going to fix much. Keep good oil in it and keep the grass clippings cleaned out/off of it so it doesn't over heat.

Thank you--how can I tell if it's a TG Torq motor?

I'm usually quite patient and can take criticism but when someone insults me and calls me an idiot, I draw the line. I agree with you about the internet being a great tool and I enjoy the forums found on here. I won't say anything on a forum that I wouldn't say to someone's face, and I wouldn't...

The Orings are probably around 4"

I want a seal/O-ring kit. There is a seal and several O-rings in these motors. The outer seal on the axle wasn't leaking, but I'll replace it while I'm in there.

Just for your info--I sent Parker all the numbers off the tag on the Parker wheel motor and the number that was stamped into the housing. This isn't my first time looking for parts. I didn't ask for the part number for the kit. I just ask where I could get a seal kit. It shouldn't matter what...

Hope I don't need to make them as, there are about 6 of them.

I already have the motor out and have numbers off it. It has an oil seal over the axle and several O-rings within the sections of the motor. I'm trying to find the seal and the O-rings. Quite sure I could get the seal separately but, I need the O-rings and probably they all come as a kit.

My Ferris 3100Z is leaking oil from the left wheel motor. The motor is a Parker and has two long numbers on the tag. I've looked for a seal/o-ring kit for it but can't find one. Anybody know where to find a kit for it? Thanks, gregjo1948

Keep in mind that hydro fluid is hotter than engine oil.

Sounds like it needs rings. Your getting blow-by causing pressure in the crankcase. Are you sure the valves are adjusted correctly? There is a compression relief built into the cam and you may have inadvertently adjusted the valves incorrectly.

No spark is probably because there is no neutral. There is likely a safety switch that allows spark when it's in neutral.

Do you need to pull the heads to install the valve seals? Should be able to remove the valve covers to do it. If it still smokes then I would guess that it may need new piston rings.

Stop spraying carb cleaner into it. It doesn't burn well. Try spraying starting fluid. I doubt that it has a kill switch. There is probably an ignition switch somewhere on it. It probably is the switch you're turning to crank it over. To test the compression, remove the sparkplug, stick a...

Thanks, I use Mobile 1 15W50 in my older IS3100Z so, I have it on hand.

Thanks Star Tech--It's great having the schematic but, I can't figure out why it doesn't crank. Standing on the platform, hand brake applied, red light on, makes a little buzzing noise then stops. Turn the key to start position, red light stays on but, engine doesn't crank over. Any idea why it...

thank you, gregjo1948

Working on a Ferris Z3X---Need to know the deck belt routing and it won't crank over. The computer runs its cycle and while standing on the platform, with the hand brake applied, it doesn't crank over. Any help would be appreciated, gregjo1948 Model # 5901692 serial # 4001545074

The gas line is probably rubber. Try to get a neoprene line and it won't do that. Gasoline eats rubber.

Working on a Ferris Z3X... What lubricant(oil) does a Z3X use in the pumps and what is the quantity? Thank you, gregjo1948

ILENGINE--Thank you. It's obvious someone has removed the belt tensioner parts on my mower. I have a plan as-to what I can do to get it back in action. I'll post how it works out. gregjo1948

IS3100Z Ferris--model 5900611--serial 2000701028 I bought it used and have had it for 6 years. I'm trying to replace the pump drive belt. I'm a little confused because there is no belt tensioner. There are four pullies to route the belt. 1-cranshaft, 2-hydraulic pumps, and 1 idler pulley...

I'd install new spark plugs. By running it multiple times with the choke on, you've probably gas soaked them causing them not to fire/spark properly.

They may be thicker, but what is the quality of the steal?

Check a shop manual for proper valve adjustment. I think valves aren't supposed to be tdc when adjusted. I think there is a compression relief that holds the exhaust valve open a bit.

Did you try NAPA?

Sounds like there may be a collapsing fuel line or something in the gas tank blocking the fuel port, causing it to starve for fuel.

If you have the deck off, engage the pto and see if you can spin the drive pulley. If you can spin it, it's a faulty pto clutch.

Didn't understand what you did with the fuel solenoid. So, I'll just say, remove the solenoid.

I have 2 Hydro-Gear pumps on a Ferris Z 3100. Drove into garage to work on motor and now it won't move. Changed the hydro filter and fluid. The bypass valves are closed. Is there a need to bleed these pumps before they will pump? If so,how is it done? thanks, gregjo1948

Had no luck bleeding air from the system. Didn't help.

I have it jacked up and the wheels do turn in both directions but with no power. I can easily stop the motion with my hand. I'm going to try bleeding air from the system.

the bypasses are both closed.

The pumps are both turning as they should. They are not running the drive motors.

It would need to be a trick belt to get between the pulley and the fans. It is under the pump mounting deck.

The belt is fine. It's easy to see both cooling fans spinning.

working on an older IS3100 That I had to do some engine work on. Engine is repaired and running fine, but the machine won't move. It's been sitting since July 2022. Has the correct fluid in the pump reservoir and the releases are in the right position. It was driven to where it is sitting now...

I'd guess you aren't setting the valve lash correctly. Most small engines have a compression relief built into the cam. It opens the exhaust valve slightly and you may be adjusting the lash wrong.

Decided to replace the engine. What would be an easy replacement Kawasaki replacement? Rather go with air cooled. Shaft size 1 1/8" x 3 7/8" keyed.

How do you adjust the valves on this engine?

I pulled a head off this engine and wondered what the torque specs are for it.

Using the tool, I got it back in. thanks, gregjo1948

There was a bent push rod, and the valve was able to move as it should, so I pulled out the lifter.