Search results

I modified my 13HP Generac to run on the propane going into the house from our 400 gallon propane tank. I have QDs to hook up to the house line, and a plug-in at the breaker box, with proper isolation in the panel. Haven't had any problems running on the LP, and I figure that I have lots of run...

Yep, that's what I save my old auto pads for. They get cut to size with a cutoff wheel in the grinder, and reused in the mower. Depending upon the mower, you may have to JB Weld them to the tab that the old brake material was attached to. When grinding to size, wear a mask, since those brake...

If the shaft is worn excessively, you could build it up with JB Weld, then sand it down for a tight fit, but it doesn't look that worn. To hold the inner race in place, and be able to easily remove the wheel, you need side compression on the inner race, either with springs washers or a heavy...

I got tired of the worthless Lawn and Garden lead acid batteries. I've been using ATV/Motorcycle AGM sealed batteries, and they are much more durable, particularly on the rough acreage I run my mower over. And they are cheaper online, with no core charges. For the same amps, they will usually...

I converted my 13HP Generac to LP, with a Quick Connect, so that I can hook it directly into my home LP line, which means it can run a very long time on my 500 gallon tank. The primary part was a Garretson Model Century KN Fuel Valve demand LP regulator, which I purchased directly from...

On my 25 yr old LT1000, mine too fell apart on my rough terrain, so I replaced the steering link connector with a greaseable adjustable ball joint, which are available at McMaster Carr, and probably on Amazon if you know what you're looking for. Many times, the McMaster Carr website will help...

I've used the MightyMax or similar ATV/Motorcycle AGM batteries for years for all my small engine applications. The Lawn and Garden lead acid batteries I found to be mostly worthless and very short lived, and more expensive. The ATV batteries work great, and last so much longer, since they are...

When I managed a large liquid nitrogen and oxygen production plant, we had to completely clean and degrease everything going into oxygen service, then blacklight it ensure there was no oil/grease residue anywhere on it. 1:1:1 Trichloroethane used to be the preferred way, but when it was no...

As many have said... replace that nuisance valve, which is just waiting to breakoff and destroy your engine, with a real steel plug. And yes, I did have one break off, but I noticed it in time. The little bit of inconvenience and messy dealing with a real plug is nowhere near the inconvenience...

Yep... some of those beads don't want to seat enough to pop it up and over the rim. I've had a strap wrapped around a tire until it compressed the tread all the way down into the rim. I've clamped a piece of hose on the stem, going to a ball valve, feeding directly from the compressor tank...

It sounds like you are going to mount it yourself. I would strongly suggest a mini-tire changer from Harbor Freight. You'd think that small tires would be easy, but they aren't. When I put some lugged snow-blower tires on my mower [I got tired of all the flats], I took them to a tire shop...

I've had both an Echo and a Stihl backpack blowers until they died, and now I just use a corded SunJoe blower for the odd jobs I need a blast of air. I do use it to clear the debris off the tile roof every fall. Truthfully, whatever pain the cord is, it's less pain than keeping gas powered...

Somebody gave me a fairly new Craftsman rider with the 22hp Kohler. The Bendix on the starter was trashed, and the ring gear on the flywheel had split and was just loose on the flywheel. Of course, they don't sell the ring gear, and I couldn't see spending $400 for a new flywheel, then a new...

My very old LT1000 gets a lot of hard use cutting weeds on my rough 5 acres, and has been modified and repaired often... but that old Kohler 16.5hp engine keeps on chugging. I've lost count on the number of spindles I've replaced [usually when I hit something hard hidden in the weeds], along...

On a Craftsman, the brake must be set to both bypass the seat switch and to start the engine. The engine charging circuit is mostly useless for long-term use, and you should have a battery maintainer on the battery, to ensure that it's charged when needed, and to extend the life of the battery...

Definitely not the 50A setting which is supposedly for starting, although I've never seen one be able to start anything but a lawnmower or motorcycle sized engine. Most chargers will have an automatic charging circuit, unless it's very old and very basic. So whether you do a 10A fast charge...

I gave up on the Lawn & Garden lead acid batteries many years ago, and have a pile of worthless ones laying in a pile on the farm, some of which only lasted about a year. They will show voltage, but quickly deteriorate to have no cranking amps left. I've tried regenerating them, adding mag...

For my old Craftsman LT1000 I've used on the farm for 20 yrs, I scored some old worn auto brake pads with a cutoff wheel on a grinder to the size of the OEM "pads" on the mower, used a chisel to remove the cut pad piece from the metal backing, then glued them on with JB Weld. They have worked...

1. Buy a meter, which will be cheaper than replacing parts without knowing what's bad 2. Put the neg meter probe, starting first test under load on the battery negative [with + probe on the battery +], and then test at the starter ground to ensure that you have a good ground for the starter...

Another option that I've done many times, get some line of the larger diameter to route to where it terminates onto the smaller barb fitting. Use a short piece of the smaller diameter tubing [a piece of the old bad one] on the barb fitting and slide the larger dia tubing over the smaller...

My mower is only for the grass and weeds, since there is no lawn on the farm. I tried everything... tubes, slime... but finally, the only thing that worked was lugged tires on the mower. Haven't had a problem with either of those rear tires since, and that's been probably 15 yrs ago. Now the...

To eliminate all extraneous wiring and issues, use a good voltmeter and check the cranking voltage right at the starter, and then moving both the positive and negative probes to various spots to find where you lose starting voltage. If you have full voltage at the starter [with your - probe on...

Everything in life is a tradeoff, particularly anything associated with equipment, because all engineering is a compromise of one thing for something more desirable. Sure, the purest fuel you can get will work better, but enough to warrant the extra cost and bother? That's up to you. I've got...