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The one thing not mentioned often enough is the TYPE of gas used. I've been using ONLY premium 91 or 92, ethanol free if you can get it in your state! Using this high octane fuel utilizes the additive package best, which is 10x more than in regular unleaded!

I’m going to add just my .02 worth here and say that I run nothing but premium, ethanol free fuel in ALL my small engines. If you can’t get ethanol free at the pump you just run premium fuel and/or buy the ethanol free additive at an automotive store.

I agree. These are usually very small cracks in the tire. How old is the tire! Is it stored/parked outside? I would over inflate the tire, maybe to 25+ psi and spray some soapy water on it. If this doesn’t expose it then put it in a small tub where the entire wheel will be covered. It’s...

I'm guessing by now someone has mentioned this, but I will go ahead anyway. It's a simple thing of just taking the hose to any auto parts store, tell them it's for the evap system on a mower. They should be able to match up the inside diameter with the bulk hose they have and cut you a piece to...

I agree with Ilengine - the engine is done. I was just reading all your posts and replies...Looks like the valve spring broke, causing the valve to drop into the engine and through the piston. It looks like it scored the cylinder wall as well. If so, the repair will be a new engine unless you...

This looks like a fairly good one, for the price point. Most folks don’t use these but maybe once, so, as you stated, it’s important that it stored oiled and clean, with a small amount of tension.

Being a former Chevron (Standard Oil of Ca, back in the day) employee for 27 years, I fully agree with Rifraph48. I use 91 octane, ethanol free for ALL my small engines - from my riding mower to my 1942 Power Trim edger! For example, my edger I hadn't started for 3 years!...yes! The other day I...

Boy, you've got a lot to deal with now but...with cost of new mowers these days, the old ones are worth putting SOME money into, but be careful to take stock of the entire mower's condition: is the deck itself in good working order (pulleys free, deck wheels, blade spindles spin smoothly, and...

Agree! Thanks for looking further into this. I didn't have any idea this engine is that old! I, too, have a T2400 w/the B&S engine but it runs just fine. It's also 10 years old and I just got it from my neighbor in a trade. It wasn't taken care of very well, as far as the blades, seat...

I can see that happening. This appears - per the above discussions - that this is not an isolated issue! One that B&S should certainly be aware of and offer some kind of assistance! It could be an isolated bad batch of crankshafts or, more likely, connecting rods/bearings. Unfortunately, most...

Back in the '70's, when unleaded was first coming out - thank you EPA! - carbs mostly, other fuel retaining systems would have the gaskets and seals harden to a point of uselessness and failure. Even on our fuel tankers, we had to replace the seals with the butyl or better yet, Viton seals. They...

Even testing fuel tanks at a gas station, in my day, we would only pressurize to 5psi! People, understand that you only need a very small burst of air - even a bicycle pump would do it - to clear out a fuel line, regardless of tank size! Also, the black rubber fuel lines won't last more than a...

Sounds like a stuck oil ring! In years past, I've used Marvel Mystery oil...it's crazy, but somehow it worked. You've probably got a lot of carbon buildup in the rings too. I'm sure you've checked the condition of the plug? STP would be too thick!!

Almost sounds like a broken crank! It sounds like this may be a common issue with this engine and maybe worth a call to B&S to speak with their Tech! Complete engines are EXPENSIVE these days, so may be worth a couple hundred to fix it - IF they will warranty the engine after repair.

I concur! Being a former Chevron employee of 27 years, and understanding how and why the different octanes levels are obtained, and for what reasons, I can say that using the premium fuels of 90+ octanes, without ethanol, is a great way to keep your small engines clean burning and hydrocarbon...

If you're "getting tired of having to explain..." then why are you on here? You don't have to be rude! Many get on this forum for the first time and don't know EXACTLY what information is needed to help those of us who MAY be able to lend a hand! As another commenter stated below, and I...

I'd pull the spark plug, it's probably fouled! If not, clean it up with brass or steel brush, check the gap, and then try again. If that doesn't do it, spray a very small burst of starting fluid into the air intake and turn it over. Once it starts keep the throttle full on until it runs...

No need...it was a pretty easy replacement and repair. The new parts were bent and shaped correctly to bring the wheels back to near perfect alignment - for a rider!

Snapper electric! You have the option of a single battery or dual. Has parts that are commonly found, red deck, quiet, proven durability over the big box store EZgo, which are junk and why there's a lot for sale on MP... and in that price range.

Disconnecting the negative is ok, but not really necessary on a mower that doesn't have anything electronic on it! I've left my rider outside with the battery installed, no cables disconnected, and temps that get down in the lower teens. Although not ideal, by any stretch, my battery still...

Working for Chevron, we used to sell cans of solvent based grease for like bull gears and hard to reach joints and gears. It’s probably outlawed these days! Lol All the ball joints on my mower are old and worn so it’s probably best to just replace them.

Thank you for the for your explanation! I’ve replaced both tie rods and noticed a lot of play in the other linkages. Have you figured out a way to get some lube into those ball joints? There used to be a spray grease that would work but I don’t know if that’s available anymore.

You said this is normal but suggest I get someone to repair it?

I just got this mower with the 46" deck. The front wheels are splayed out quite a bit and I'm wondering what position they should be in before I buy a couple steering rods. This unit appears to be almost a zero turn, since I can almost get the inside wheel to be almost 90 deg! Does that sound...

100% agree! The "shop" guy's a joke! Just because you are a "shop owner" does NOT mean you are an expert mechanic!

I'm also at an "advanced" age and I also have about the same amount of lawn. Question: have you looked into just replacing your engine with another brand, maybe Kohler or Kawasaki? Riders are up in the $2400+ range and are just the same build as 5 years ago when they were selling at $1800! If...

It's too bad the companies that pick up the used oil don't pay anything anymore! Having worked for a major oil company for over 27 years I can say that, yes, they all recycle the used oil back into the refineries and sell it as recycled oil - or used to - at most auto parts stores. The process...

Boy, you’re a real piece of work! First you say “…along with the oil comes the gas”. Then you reply “…had gas DRIP out …”. I’ve done this and, maybe, a couple drops of gas comes out, but… the oil comes out quickly enough - assuming you pre-warm the oil - and this leaves a little of a mess but so...

Found this as well...and ordered it! THAT was my point - that I only needed the chute/deflector and not the hardware! They are available but are not the exact match that I needed for my bagger system. Thanks for posting this reply!

I need to find the part number for the chute deflector only, on a Troy Bilt Bronco 2009. I don't need the mounting assembly, just the chute. Model 13AV60KG011