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Retap the holes, clean bolt threads, use a anti seeze compand when installing, use new gaskets. Remember some day you might ave to take apart, think twice before using thread lock.

If you use blended gas and don't use a fuel stabilizer there might be some gell in the tank or carbuator.

82 here, I have a snapper zero turn. Has a drive shaft for the deck power. Single stick drive control do not think they make them any longer. Takes one hour to mow an acre. Changed 2 belts, deck and power take off. I use stable fuel conditioner all year. Is fun to drive, easy to get on and off...

You can try loctite depending how much clearance there is, wrap tape if there is a lot of clearance, or take a hammer and put a dimple on the shaft. Add an extra washer behind the clip.

Yes you have a fuel problem, some times a screen is in the tank, sometimes a screen in the fuel inlet where the hose connects, and some times there is a very fine screen in the carb that stops everything. When you get it fixed may I suggest using a marine fuel conditioner in the supply...

Could be a coil, or points and condenser, or the end in the spark plug wire gets rusty. Good luck

Yes , I got tired of buying good batteries. This year I tired of battery problems, where I store my machines does not have electric. I bought a 12V solar panel for $45, magnetic mounted, to put on one shed. The panel just pulls off to locate some other place. It also can be mounted on an...

The wire in the spark plug cap is most likely rusty.

Yes that sound like a good idea. Valves should be closed until stroke starts to come back up. Not sure where the stroke is use a wood dowel in spark plug hole.

I had about the same problem, the engine would not speed up,so I tryed something different, Might want to try it, I added about a tablespoon of denatured fuel alcohol in the tank, ran the edger for couple minutes and the engine started running properly, couple more minutes and now running prefect.

Should be using 89 octane or better. Low octane in 2 cycle will make machines run hotter. Not because I say so, I saw proof, a piston caved in, dealer showed me. Also I use a marine conditioner all year long,1oz. per gallon. During weather changes you might want to try adjusting jets...

Will have to look into this.

It was like this from day one, very hot day is only time I have a problem. Thanks.

Do you use a stabilizer, it is a must plus 89 octane a must for 2 cycle, I use stable marine brand all year, 1 oz per gal. eliminated 95% of fuel problems. Stabilizers do not absorb much water, the fumes push fresh air.

That is a good explanation , I will try less soap.

Some times the UC can not clean the jets under the little caps, some have check valves in them. Did you change the tank filter? a very small screen in the 2 cycles need cleaning. Right now I use Dove soap it does not eat the aluminum, . You might have an air leak. The UC does a better job if the...

If you loosened the gonover adjustment, I would start there, find instruction to do that.

Let it run to cool down, I have the same problem when the weather is hot. Just let it idle and cool down.

Most fuel problems will vanish if you use a fuel conditioner added when you fill a new can. I do this all year long with a marine grade conditioner. A few penny's at this point will lesson the amount of aspirin needed.

Sounds like the blade is running to slow. Might want to check the belt is installed properly. Are all the pulleys the same size?

Only one way to measure belts, do you still hove the old one that worked? If yes, get a tape used to measure fabrics, yes it is a cloth tape Singer makes one. Measure the out side of the belt with the tape. I have tried two ways, one roling the belt on a bench got one measurement,,Came out the...

If you look at the cylinder you will see ridges in the wall. The piston is cocking and jams. Have experienced this on a 2 cycle.

I would say the idler pully is bad, is what you are hearing is the bearing.

Have you changed the fuel filter? After that long the filter deuterates, then it clog's the very fine screen in the carb. I think mine is an 027 no plastic heavy as a horse. Also changed the tank filter and cleaned that screen and it still runs.

Take the plugs out see it the machine turns over, if it does it has become Hydro locked (maybe a better word) I did get a more Amp Hour battery and pulling back the throttle when starting , as it turns over then increase throttle. Helped with my issue. My problem is the machine wants to run...

Have you checked compression? Have had different motors that would run forcing fuel in the carb. but would not start. Valves could be leaking.

Check the valve clearance, could be the oil seal on intake valve

If it fits, take the new main jet out and replace it with the old main jet. See if it corrects the problem. Turn the fuel off when changing.

Had one do similar. Had to make the intake gaskets thicker, was an air leak.

Springs look to tight, not allowing the governor to operate under a load. Is the unloader working? could be stuck in open position.

My self would make a filter. Has been some talk about washing filters. Not recommended, it destroys the air pockets in the filter. Oiling filters have to be careful some filters will not hold up , again crushing the the bubbles in the filter.

Is the starter a perfect match? If it does not start with a jumper batt. the Bendix might not be lining up with fly wheel. If not the case most likely the Batt. or starter. Loose connection, ?

Do you know the ambient temperature at the same times. Could be dirt under the shroud.

I think you will find the tire cracked, very tiny crack, cracks, they look like left over bubbles from the soap. Increase the soap mixture, I use dove dish soap, the bubbles will last longer.

Did not read all replies, If I were you I would go on Amazon and buy a length of "fuel" line and install it using the same routing.

have you checked the owners manual? Some decks are funny, found this problem on another style. On the floor, lower deck so it to where it stops, loosen adjusting bolts, push the the depth control as far as possible ( make sure it is not jammed), should push to lowest setting, tighten adjusting...

Try changing spark plug.

Had a couple motors did the same. one the main jet had dirt in it, the other look for air leaks around the carb.

Could be a loose pully.

Check the routing of the belts. Charge the battery, anything less then 12 volts starter will not work.

Lot of time the pully's hang up on the key. They jam up putting pully's on. As one surjection drill along the keyway and split along the key it will avoid ruining the shaft The air hammer will help a lot.

2cycle engines must us 89 octane or better, has less heat than 87.

I also store pump gas and use a stabilizer all year (marine type) . I get less work because most of the customers back with less fuel problems. They finally took my advice. Keep the fuel out of the direct sun you will have less problems.

I have a similar problem with a B&S Vanguard mod. 294440-0414-01 V twin. Only thing I can think off is a small peace of dirt does not allow the shut off to close fully. (new shutoff valve) . When the machine came the problem was not enough fuel now too much. The engine is in a Cushman Hauler.

Yes on the terminals, should read 12.5 volts, fully charged. If not more. Could be any safety switch that went bad. Loose wire, keep checking all the switches.

Thanks for all the help! 2 problems, fuel separation was a small part, fuel pump was the big problem. After replacing I had the hoses mixed up for fuel supply ( hate to admit it) maybe it will help someone else in the future. Again thank you all.

Once had a problem finding very small O-rings. Had the right size fuel line, cut 2 peaces the thickness of the O-ring and used them for my for the repair. Had a pic. how I did it but can not find the picture.