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Thanks guys for looking that up for me but someone found me one on sale OEM at Sears for $150. I have it ordered and on the way. Like I said though I do appreciate the help. Thanks

It happens to the best of us. If I recall correctly in the manual of my specific mower the fuse was intended to be 20 amps. It's either that or 7.5 amps. The wiring diagram is slightly confusing. It shows a 20 amp between the battery pin of the ignition but also 2- 7.5 amp fuses in other...

The one previously installed was 20 amps. I installed a 15 amp which immediately blew on engaging the PTO.

I believe it wasn't blowing a fuse because there was an over rated fuse installed and it was melting the fuse holder. It did blow today and upon inserting a proper fuse it instantly blows when I activate the PTO.

I agree that substitution is a great way to isolate electrical issues. It helps to keep things simple. Being relatively new to all this I end up in situations where something seems like it is working when jumped, But I'm unable to tell if that is what was intended or it is only half-functioning...

That idea never dawned on me. Thanks for the information StarTech now it makes perfect sense why I would need a CCW clutch. Also I literally sank 3 hours or more of sitting at this computer looking all over google for a new clutch at a reasonable price and this blows everything I found out of...

Ok so for the starting issue. That was initially the first issue I had with the mower. I have a faulty solenoid off the bat, I mean, it still works, but when you attach either post wire on it the whole stud spins and the contacts inside spins as well. This has spun and busted a piece of the...

Thank you for your reply. I will absolutely do that and currently working on it now. Since you guys are so willing to help I want to add pictures but they seem to be too large to upload so I guess I'll continue to just describe it. Ok so I retested the ohms between the pins and the housing in...

Noted. Thank you the Knowledge and advice. I will use it and see where it takes me and post any findings.

That's a valid point. I have small car battery that I have been using and it has made no difference. That's really the only reason that makes me think it has enough to engage the clutch, seeing it is the battery I currently use in the car. It should be more than enough.

Good point. Resistance between the pin an the housing while off of the mower tells me that there is a path there for electricity to flow, which would be a short I would think. Unless one of the pins is supposed to ground to the housing for any reason. It seems to explain why it works great...

Yes the battery is bad. But I am more concerned with the short. I can start the mower with my drill on the flywheel bolt in a pinch, but if my blades don't engage I can't mow. Thanks for taking time to stop by and try to help maybe it will help someone who stumbles across this. In my case What I...

Yes. The positive clutch pin has some order of mega ohms between it and where the crankshaft would ride on the clutch... Guess that means there's a path for electricity to flow from the positive through the clutch to ground on the engine, otherwise it would read open right? It's really a...

I am having electrical problems. The mower won't start on its own battery that's fully charged, or if it does spin its only once before you get clicking. Also the electrical clutch will not engage and a quiet arching sound can be heard when trying to engage the PTO that I can't seem to isolate...