Search results

40 grit flapper wheel on an angle grinder.

https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en/cerulean-grease/ https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en/extreme-red-grease/

Look at the Raptor XD model. It's transaxles are a step up from the ZT2200 found on the XL model. As @Auto Doc's said, buy from a servicing dealer and not from a big box store.

https://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/44t977-0043

You should have gotten a separate operators manual for the engine. The World Lawn website says that particular mower comes with a Kawasaki FR691V. All engine manufacturers have similar setups.

What Toro mower is this and what B&S engine?

Could be. My old SRM225 is hard to start after running a while and putting it down for a few minutes. I imagine that the diaphragms in the carburetor are perished. I replaced all of the fuel lines last year. I may just buy an OE carburetor and be done with it.

https://media.stokker.com/manual/Ariens%20Ikon%20XD_all%20languages_set407168735.pdf

I didn't need the hour meter or service reminder functions. They are only good if you are permanently mounting it to the machine.

Old school spark testing tools are free. 😉😉

Cheap ain't good and good ain't cheap. If you are going to buy one, get one that's a little more expensive. Look for one that only gives the RPMs. I bought this one. https://www.amazon.com/Runleader-Tachometer-Real-time-Snowblower-Motorcycle/dp/B08G3P78FB

John Deere

Is it losing prime? Have the fuel lines, fuel tank grommet, and primer bulb been replaced? Has the spark arrestor screen been cleaned? Was a new spark plug installed? I'm willing to bet that the shop didn't do a thorough evaluation. Aftermarket ignition modules aren't the best.

Echo, Stihl, and Rotary 0.95

I use the Kohler filter. 10 microns and extra capacity.

Something other than Nikki. I got the original carburetor rebuilt, using the Shindy 03-122 kit. I installed the original carburetor this morning. I also installed a new NGK BPR4ES plug, fuel filter, and a new fuel line from the filter to the carburetor. It's running good, for now. 😉😉 I still...

Anything you apply won't last very long.

Well, the blasted thing is acting up again. I put a Shindy kit in the original carburetor and intend to install it tomorrow. My plan is to get it running decent and trade it in on a Polaris Ranger 570. The Kawasaki Mule is at under 400 hours and I'm sick of it.

I keep Glyphosate 53% on hand. RM43 is good for bare ground.

It's not a bare ground herbicide. You will need something else.

Mine doesn't leak. You might try plastic wrap under the cap.

I use it occasionally. I have the Target 6+ brand. It works great if you have Bermuda lawns. DO NOT use on other southern grasses. It will cook crabgrass, nut sedge, Bahai grass. It's best applied at higher air temperatures.

You are going to need more than steering spindles. I would suggest that you jack the front end up and remove the bumper cover. Look it over good. Compare to the parts diagram and replace everything that needs replacing.

🤣🤣🤣

You can buy Ox and Xtreme clutches a little less than the Warner.

Post the solution!

Check blade brakes.

Have you checked for spark? You need to confirm that both plugs are sparking.

To save yourself from complaining about the next battery failure in 13 months, go to Walmart and buy you a Battery Tender Jr. Keep it hooked up whenever you aren't mowing. My original equipment battery is going on 4 years of age. It stays hooked up whenever I'm not mowing.

Check the wiring diagrams. You will need the model number and serial number to find them.

Dead battery. PTO switch is on. Faulty safety switch. Blown fuse. Bad ground.

Impact wrench or a socket and ratchet top side and an open end wrench underneath.

Bad Boy, just like some other manufacturers, got fooled by Yamaha's marketing game and reputation. These engines were not what they were made out to be. These were old Subaru designs that were made in China. They had 3 valves per cylinder and hemisphere heads. The valves could not be adjusted...

The brake control modules are a common problem on these mowers. The safety switches are also problematic. There are switches near the base of both steering handles. The seat switch is another place to look. As for the looseness in one steering handle. Make sure everything is fastened properly...

New carburetor is on. Choke and throttle cables adjusted. It's running great.

Correct. That's why the engine manufacturers specify a certain timetable for replacement. If you are running an EFI engine, the specifications of the timetable for changing then needs to followed. This is my usual filter choice. https://www.propartsdirect.net/kohler-2405013s.aspx

I recently changed the filter on my ZTR. It had been on my mower for around a year. Inside was a very fine light colored sludge. The filter was a 10 micron Kohler filter. Any filter with a higher micron rating would not have captured that junk.

You mentioned changing the injectors. I assume that this is an EFI engine. You didn't mention changing the fuel filter. You need a 10 micron Kohler fuel filter. If changing the fuel filter doesn't work, you will need to someone with a diagnostic tool to pull the codes.

"Need to be replaced at regular intervals" That is correct. It's best to change them yearly or ever 100 hours. They are relatively cheap. Also, the super cheap stuff sold on Amazon or Ebay are not the best. OEM, Stens, or Rotary are fine for that time period.

Neither are very good running parallel to the slope. That's why manufacturers put recommendations in their owners manual.

A little FYI. Clean and mark the throttle cable on both sides of the hold down clamp before loosening the cable clamp. When everything is hooked back up, you will only have minor adjustments to do.

Weight is better distributed on a tractor style riding mower. With a ZTR all of the weight is on the rear.

This time of year dealer repair shops are swamped. Some will push warranty repairs and commercial clients to the head of the line. There could be up to a three week wait. I would suggest an independent repair shop.

I ordered a new OE carburetor through the dealership. I will pick it up tomorrow. They also had the OE choke kit. I will likely get that as well and repair the existing carburetor. You never know when you might need a spare.

I want to remind people to blow your mower and engine off after cutting grass. My Gravely has 300 hours on the clock. I blow it off after every use with a leaf blower. When I had the engine cover off, I noticed that the engine cooling fins were very clean.

That's the OE filter for the KT725. It's also a good choice. I was hoping that he would watch the video and get a better understanding of the various filter applications.

Of those two, the Radius E. Shop other brands with similar features. Often times, you can get more from other makers for the same money.

There's a couple of good YouTube videos explaining filter applications. One is from Taryl.

The OP isn't giving us a full description. He said XT725 and not KT725.