Search results

Something isn’t right. An alignment issue? Rusty pulleys? If there is an alignment issue, the deck could be warped. I wonder if either dealer put a straight edge on the deck surface?

Try the leaking Scag out. If it handles the terrain, think about repairing or replacing the engine on it.

What happened to your owners manual?

https://www.weingartz.com/assembly-diagram/exmark-parts-lookup/model-lazer-z-s-n-320-000-369-999-lz20kc524-s-n-320-000-369-999-2002-lz23kc604-s-n-320-000-369-999-2002-lz25ka604-s-n-320-000-369-999-2002-lz25kc524-s-n-320-000-369-999-2002-lz25kc604-s-n-320-000-369-999-2002-lz26kc604-s-n-320-000-369...

Please provide the model and serial numbers. It could be any number of safety switches or a loose ground wire.

ZDDP: Zinc and phosphorus are more than anti-wear additives. They are also anti-oxidants. Higher levels of zinc and phosphorus in engine oils can foul catalytic converters and diesel particulate filters. That’s the reason for reducing the zinc and phosphorus levels in oils for newer passenger...

Whatever! I’ve provided the literature that Kohler and Kawasaki puts out pertaining to their oil. Kohler even states that the demand of small air cooled engines is different than that of automobile requirements. Today’s automobile oils are engineered to meet the current EPA CAFE standards geared...

Your theory is based on anecdotal evidence. An air cooled small engine has different oil requirements than a gasoline powered automobile engine. If they didn’t, small engine manufacturers would not have their branded oil formulated to meet certain requirements...

It’s going to have as much zinc and phosphorus as most other 4 Stroke motorcycle oil or Power Sports oils. Kawasaki and Kohler don’t publish product data sheets. So, take a look at what Valvoline, Mobil, Castrol and others publish. The zinc and phosphate levels are going to be around 1,200 PPM...

If you are bagging, you will need high lift blades. If you have a mulching kit on it, it needs to come off. I don’t know about a skirt kit.

Are you using a bagger?

That sounds like a coil. Have you tested the coil? Does it have spark? Is the coil air gap correct?

I’m providing a link to an earlier post. https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/srm-225-wont-rev-up.74935/page-2#post-485437 https://www.echo-usa.com/youcan-maintenance-kits/fuel-system-kit

Did you leave the PTO switch turned on?

Check the safety switches. Also, the reverse switch. Toro uses pretty crappy switches on those residential zero turns. Sometimes they work and sometimes they don’t.

You are correct. The bracket that comes with the kit mounts to the plastic engine shroud. The two screws that hold the filter door on are reused for the mounting bracket. The setup looks kind of flimsy to me.

Or, 2 cycle oil.

That’s pretty much how I did it. I angle cut the ends of the line. I then pushed enough through and grabbed it with the hemostats. It went pretty smoothly.

I thought of using monofilament fishing line to pull the fuel lines through.

You saw what I put into my personal saw. Above ☝ The darned thing runs like a brand new saw. I wasn’t going to give up on it yet. I just didn’t want to fork out $350+ on a new saw.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZIYXS4?ref=emc_s_m_5_i_atc

It’s not too bad if you have a couple of pair of hemostats or long bodied needle nose pliers.

Yes, the cheap residential consumer brands are pretty much throw away products. Echo is my personal choice. I do have an old Poulan Pro 220 (Husqvarna) chainsaw. I recently put new fuel lines, fuel filter, air filter, primer bulb, and carburetor mounting gasket on it. I was winding up my my...

I think that we’ve given the best advice possible. It’s up to the OP to follow our advice or not.

That too. And, don’t loan your stuff out.

I’m still using the speed head that came with my SRM225. The secret to it’s longevity is not bumping it on concrete or asphalt surfaces. It’s getting close to replacement time.

You may have some internal damage. You will probably have to remove the head and have a look.

It could be several things. First of all, we don’t even know what Echo model and serial number you have. We don’t even know how old it is. There is fuel mixture is all over the top of the engine. There doesn’t look like very much maintenance has been done to it. The fuel lines, fuel filter, fuel...

Did you inspect the pushrod?

What @mechanic mark said. ☝️ Oscillating? Something that’s spinning is making the noise. You are going to need the deck belt off and spin all of the pulleys and idlers. Check the play in the spindles. Also, check your belt. There could be chunks of rubber missing from the belt.

The John Deere filter that you referenced is the short Briggs and Stratton oil filter. The John Deere filter crosses to a FRAM PH8170 or a WIX 57035. The Motorcraft FL-910s is a longer application. Other longer filters are WIX 51348, FRAM XX3614, and etc. Better? That’s subjective. It only gives...

Valve lash is too tight.

I don’t get super picky. Mower blades aren’t precision instruments.

Use a bigger nail or a cheap Arnold balancer. 😜 It was balanced in the horizontal position. That’s good enough.

A 16d nail in a stud or tree works well.

I have the same trimmer. It’s older than yours. It still has the original carburetor. The only things that I’ve done to it were to change the primer bulb, the fuel lines and their filters, the fuel tank grommet, air filter, and the two gaskets on both sides of the intake manifold block. I...

Either one. They are both residential engines on a residential mower. Follow the owners manual for the service intervals.

They are .250 thick. https://www.rotarycorp.com/product/15003 These are direct replacement for the factory blades. There must be some other reason that you are burning through spindles.

I like them. I have a couple of sets of Rotary blades for my Gravely. They are darn good blades. They will give you a much cleaner cut than your G6 blades. They are a direct replacement for the SCAG OEM blades. I can guarantee you that they will outlast Sunbelt XHT blades. You have to remember...

Rotary brand part #15003

Being it’s a Gravely, there should be two sets of holes. Set the bolts in the top holes for cutting 3” and lower. Set the bolts in the bottom holes for cutting above 3”.

I ran SAE30 HD in mine. Oil filter is FRAM TG4967 or STP S4967. Don’t try to fit a WIX or NAPA Gold oil filter. They will not work.

Really? It only takes a minute to verify. It will piss him off real bad when you ask him to give the check back.

I’ve never noticed it with mine. I unplug from the outlet and then disconnect the alligator clips. When I reattach, I hook up the alligator clips and then plug into the outlet.

If you want good service out of a battery, keep it on a Battery Tender or similar charger. Keep the terminals free of corrosion and topped up with distilled water.

Clearance is something that has to be considered. The length of your battery wires is another thing to consider. Cold cranking amps should be the same or higher than the OE battery. Fit is critical in your situation. You don’t need the seat shorting out the battery.

Rotary brand part #6180

Some Gravely mowers use a different battery design than the U1. If your mower is one of those, a U1 might not work. The terminal wires could be too short and there could be clearance problems, using a U1. Measure the dimensions of your old battery and compare to a U1.

Get a new hour meter. Most hour meters have an internal battery and they go bad.

I definitely don’t recommend buying a ride on mower from Lowe’s, Home Depot, and etc.