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Fixed! This was pretty simple. I watched the video , which did not discuss the choke but at least gave me a glimpse of the assembly before diving in. The fuel tank has to be removed, which is simple, and the air cleaner mounting has to be removed - also simple. Once this is done you can see...

OK. I'll pull the air cleaner off and have a look. I did remove it and have a look earlier, but I did not see any obvious parts (like a choke valve) that seemed out of order. Do you know how the cable works to activate the throttle and the choke? I looked at the cable today and it did seem to...

I have an old HT-R3811 Honda riding mower. It's a great machine, which I've owned for many years and we use it for mowing and towing a small, home-built trailer. The trailer is key for picking up leaves and garden waste. We use the mower and the trailer late into the fall to finsh fall cleanup...

I think I'm just going to let it leak.

Yep. Both are brand new and I applied a coat of gasket sealer on the gasket. I'm pretty sure that's not my source, especially since the oil seems to be accumulating somewhat in front of the oil breather. It's a mystery.

I've not tried unhooking the kill lead, but I did check the lead for cuts and burns, and i ohmed out the kill lead pad and the grounding mechanism and all is well with them. I am getting some spark, so I don't have much concern about the kill switch.

I tested the magnetron coil again using better test information. From the metal laminations to the grounding lead measures 1.6 ohms on the 200 ohm scale. The spark plug lead to the metal laminations reads 6.0 ohms on the 20K ohm scale. This matches StarTech's specification. Perhaps my issue is...

I have a lawnmower with a Briggs and Stratton motor, model 128T05-5268-B1. This motor was equipped with an electric starter, but the starter, battery and all the wiring have been removed. I start it with the pull cord. The mower will start, but it is reluctant. I have checked the choking...

Well, the gasket arrived today and I reassembled the engine. After cleaning both the block and the oil pan, I greased the surfaces and pressed the gasket into position on the block. I carefully lowered the oil pan down and torqued the bolts in a criss-cross pattern. After getting the motor back...

I'll remember that. It could be useful someday. As for this issue, the place where I think the leak originated from was not visible as it was right under the cylinder. I'll know the truth when I get the gasket, put the thing back together and run it. If it still leaks, I might just try the dye...

Nope. Please tell more....

I had some time this after noon, so I wend ahead and pulled the engine off the mower chassis. As warned - one of the three bolts broke. It was odd, the bolt was not seized but it would only turn a tiny bit. It was the one on the right side that you can see the tip of coming through the motor...

Thanks for the heads-up. I'll get a genuine gasket and look for the shims and make sure they are reassembled correctly.

Sounds like a plan. I'll probably get on it next week. Have a happy Thanksgiving. I'm being grateful for good help - thank you.

Hard to say about repairs. I got the thing when it was being tossed out by its original owner at the local transfer station maybe four years ago. The guy said it would not run and he couldn't fix it. The issue was a clogged main jet and I had it running in less than an hour. I'm pretty certain...

I thought I'd confirm my theory that the oil is coming from the seal between the block and the oil pan. I started the machine (that's another issue - it does not start well now) to get it good and warm and then set it on a milk crate with the nose down to see if I could spot the leak. This...

Well, I don't have it off yet. But I'll take your advise and get the bolts soaking right away. I won't get a chance to work on it until next week. By then it should be loosened up, if the bolts are corroded. This machine is not that old and in pretty good condition. Chances are the bolts are not...

I have a Honda HT-R3811, which I purchased used about twenty years ago, so I really don't know how old it is. It has taken some work over the years, mostly related to bearing is the mow deck, but overall it's been a great machine. It mows well and I have a two cubic yard, home made, wooden cart...

I've got it quite clean now. I even used some carb cleaner to blow out the suspect area, but I can't really see where the oil originates from, just that it is below the oil breather, then down onto the mower deck. I can't find any other place that it could be coming from other than the pan...

I just watched a couple of YouTube videos showing this repair and it does not look difficult. Worst part is that I just filled the fuel tank and the machine has oil. A bit messy but not difficult. I'll pick up some good gasket goo and take the pan off. I think I've been chasing the wrong issue...

Studying this nice parts diagram closely, I see that the crankcase is split horizontally and that there is a gasket that goes between the cylinder block and the sump. I can't see in there well enough to see exactly where the leak is, but it is in that area, just below the valves and oil...

Well, that explains the crazy low compression reading in an engine that runs! Thank you. So if the "oil breather passage" is on the top of the engine, and the oil is not coming out of the breather gasket, where else, on the bottom, valve side, of the engine could it be coming from?

It appears that the breather is attached to the carb by this "oil breather passage", which is a casting attached to the machine by four bolts. They look difficult to get at, but maybe I can reach in there with a small wrench and check them for tightness. I may also have bad rings. My compression...

I have a Craftsman walk behind mower with a Briggs model 128T05-5268-B1 engine. Recently the machine seemed to be using quite a lot of oil. It was working hard and was hot and a bit smokey. I checked the oil and it was off the stick. I topped it up and after ten minutes or so, it was smoking...