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I had to modify the coil. The off/on (?) connector was on the wrong side and was in the way when bolting it on. I hope to finish this today.

Will do. I have feeler gauges I can use for this.

Thanks. I ordered one. The gap on my current setup is 0.022".

Thanks. I'll reset the gap. I could probably get the rust off while I'm at it.

I did try another plug. No go. I found some coils online: used - $20, new and never used - $300+ I wonder if I can recharge the magnet. Mike

The fun thing about working on equipment I've never worked on is that I need to buy more tools. ;) I got the flywheel off, and I don't see points or a capacitor, just the coil. I guess I either need another coil, or magnet or both.

I reduced the spark plug gap to next to nothing, and got nothing on my tester. I shorted the spark plug gap and the tester lit up.

I'm not surprised that Wisconsin motors are not listed here. ;) Anyway, I've got one, WI-185, and it is on a friend's post-hole digger, the earth drill type. It has not been run in years, so I cleaned it up, replaced the rust parts, repaired the fuel cutoff, cleaned the strainer, got it a new...

The intake valve does not do the tap dance, so yes, it looks like I'll need another cam. Per the video, it looks like a very doable procedure. I'll let you all know how it goes. Thanks for the tips, and the video is fantastic. Mike

Thanks for the suggestions. I cleaned every electrical contact, including the grounds, then shorted the starter cable straight to the battery, and the engine cranked great, for the few seconds I gave the starter power. I thought the problem had been solved. When I tried to crank it again the...

The valves are adjusted. They were actually really close to where they should have been. With the spark plug out, I cranked and the motor spun fine. After I put the spark plug back in the motor would barely turn. The mower has a new battery and starter. I made sure the battery had a full charge...

Thanks, all. As soon as it stops raining I'll give it a try.

Just to confirm what you are saying, the 1/4-inch that ILENGINE was referring to is a 1/4-inch movement of the piston, not some mark on the flywheel or another part of the engine. Correct?

I work on Opels a lot and that includes building engines. To find TDC we put a degree wheel on the crank and a dial gauge on the piston, then turn the crank while watching the dial gauge. As the piston gets near the top the dial gauge slows to such a degree that you can't be sure when TDC was...

Thanks. How do I find TDC? Is there a mark on the starter/ring gear?

Hi. I just inherited a Snapper Zero-turn mower (model 7800795) that has a 21 hp Briggs and Stratten motor (model 33M777-2117). It ran great for the previous owner until he did a little work on it, got disgusted, and bought a new electric motor to replace it. "My New Snapper" has a new battery...

Cooling issues sound plausible. I cleaned it recently but I think it had been run choked with dirt for years. The engine model is Kohler SV735S. I'm getting parts from here...

The new push rods are shorter, as suggested above. I checked the other cylinder and one was straight and the other bent. I did not see any sign of valves contacting pistons, so I'm wondering what caused this.

I don't see lash caps in the drawings. I think I will try hardened washers between parts N and O in the attached diagram. Still, 0.004 - 0.006" gap seems awfully small.

Parts came in and I am installing them. Easy enough. But, with the rocker arm nuts all the way down I still have an 0.024" gap. Worn lifters? Cam? I checked the other cylinder and the gap is 0.015". Specs are for 0.004" to 0.006", which is way tighter than I ever see on my cars where 0.016" to...

Never have. Thanks for the explanation. I'll find a spring compressor and will check it.

Valve guide positions? What is that? I'll check valve heights. I assume you're hinting that the valve seats wear out, like in classic Opel motors when you don't use leaded gas and the valves pound themselves into the head.

The head cleaned up okay and the valves seems fine. I didn't take them out but the move okay. I ordered a gasket set and push rods. Crossing fingers that this fixes it. Mike

Why a new head? What issues should I be looking for? I pulled the head and looked inside. I see no signs of contact between valves and piston, cylinder walls look okay, nothing except a little oil in the bottom of the cylinder. I cleaned up the piston using a little Brakleen and will get to the...

I'll pull the head tomorrow and take a look. Then I guess I am shopping for a head gasket, as well as push rods.

The rocker arms on the right side move like they should when I crank the engine.

Push rods are bent. The question now it, what was the root cause, and how bad is the damage? I was given this mower a few years ago. I wonder if I've been running on one cylinder this whole time. Motor ran smooth, but...

Welp, the right side cylinder looks okay, but the left? I suspect more than a little mis-adjustment is the problem here. Right: Left:

Will do. Give me a half hour.

I just did those things. New plugs, correctly gapped, starter fluid in the cylinder, fresh battery, and the engine cranked strong but never even puffed. I pulled a plug and confirmed it was firing, and with a nice blue spark, too. I'm not a mechanic but I know my way around engines (classic...

Thank you for your reply. The engine model is a Kohler SV735S. I found manuals for it. It says compression should be 160 psi, so I am a bit low or did not test under the same conditions. Still, low compression alone shouldn't keep the engine from starting.

It was running fine last night then acted like it ran out of gas and quit. It probably did so today I added gas and it will not start. I checked: Fuel - I can see it at the fuel filter. Spark - I have a handy tool that lets me see if the cylinders are getting spark. Both are. I cleaned the...

The fan arrived. It fit perfectly. This time around I replaced the drive pulleys and belt, the mower belt, the trans--axle fan, gas tank, fuel filter, and fuel lines. I want to do an oil change, then I'm good to go. Thanks for the help. Mike

All I wanted to do is replace the drive belt and pulleys. Oh well, now I can finally replace the gas tank. I confirmed the part number. It looks like I've been looking at mower 917.297640, and that explains why the drive belt I bought is too short, 85" instead of 90". I can't find a part...

I'm looking for one for model 917.278640 The original part is Advanced Air International, F8.5CCW 10 BLD, part number 1A6320-85090. I found look a-likes on Amazon and eBay except most turn clock-wise, and the part offered by Sears looks different. F8.5CCW 10 decodes to 85." fan, counter...

Correct. Found this online: "Im A Small Engine Mechanic And Have Dealed With The Hydro-Gear 222-3010L Numerous Times. Every One Of Them The Brake Shaft Has Rolled The Spines On The Coupler Going From The Hydro Pump To The Brake Shaft To Turn The Transmission.. Sears List The Part As A 170.00...

Messed around with it more today. After cleaning more dirt away I could see the lever on the left whose linkage runs to the brake pedal. It moves okay, but I see no difference how the wheels turn. I also cleaned around the tab that configures the tractor for pushing verses driving. The little...

In neutral, and they will not turn in the same direction. There's no brake on the right. On the left there is a bar that runs from the brake pedal to a lever on the diff. I can push that lever forward while trying the wheels. No difference. Suggestions? Mike

I posted this in the Kohler section, too. The weather and work gave me a chance to get back on this project. I removed the mower, jacked it up in the rear, and disconnected the drive belt. The rear wheels turn in opposite directions, normal for an open diff, right? I can hear the gears. I...

Weather and work gave me a chance to get back on this project. I removed the mower, jacked it up in the rear, and disconnected the drive belt. The rear wheels turn in opposite directions. I put a wrench on the drive pulley in the rear and the pulley turns. It seems the tab that selects either...

Thanks. Model: 917.273223 Serial: 030300A001592 I ran out of daylight today. I'll remove the mower deck tomorrow and get a better look underneath. Mike

If it is internal it's not likely to be a rusted brake. I'll see what I can find tomorrow. Maybe it's the linkage. Or something internal and expensive. Mike

I also hooked the battery cable to the started and the motor cranked. Model number given in my previous post. I'll look for the brake tomorrow. Mike

Thanks for the tip. I don't see a disc, then again it is not easy to see in there. I'll have to wait for better light tomorrow to jack it up and get a better look. The brake seems to do something with the drive belt. Again, tomorrow I'll get a better look. Model: 917.273223 Serial...

I recently acquired a Craftsman 50" Kohler Pro 24 V-Twin, and I am having a little trouble with it. The rear wheels will not turn. With the pin in the rear in the in or out position, no difference. Any ideas? Is this sort of thing repairable by a reasonably skilled owner? Thanks in advance. Mike

Glad this place exists. I recently acquired a DGS 6500 (54") and after a little basic work it is running and mowing great. The second mower is a 50" Kohler Pro 24 V-Twin, and I am having a little trouble with it. After inspecting and power washing I hooked up a car batter and cranked. I heard...